tank is a mess again please help!

[steve-s]

The vlamingi is about 4 inches and the yellow from nose to tail tip is about 3 inches maybe.

I would think this is going to cause you a problem. 4 clowns of the same species and 2 large tangs in a 30gal + the anthias. Personally I would get another 20 gal long and split up the fish. One tang and two clowns in each. FWIW once the clowns become sexually mature they most likely will tolerate each other less and start squabbling, even in the 110. If you upgrade larger eventually you may be okay though.

I know the vlamingi will eventually outgrow the tank and is already a pig with te nori on the clip he goes through it in about 5 min. forget the grazing. He doesn't graze he pigs out.

I don't usually recommend terestrial veggies but if you're having problems try a tougher item like broccoli. Might take the tang longer to get through and give the yellow a chance at some as well. Even if the tang eats it all in 5 min, don't feed too much more. It will just pollute the tank which is what I think is at the root of your problems.

So how long should I age the SW for the QT?

24 hrs is a good time but be sure it is mixed with a powerhead and heated to the same temp as the QT will be.Be sure to test salinity and pH before it's used.

And what filtration do I need for it? I will watch out for the levels and do a lot of water changes, but how do I filter when using copper meds?

A good HOB should work fine but be careful if you use a corner sponge filter that it is large enough to accomadate the tank size. Do not use any type of carbon or resin as it will remove the meds. Just a simple filter floss material to help remove detritus which you should rinse in SW every few days to keep clean. With the bioloads you will be dealing with I would definately suggest Seachems Cupramine over ionic copper. Much less impact on the biofilter and will not eliminate it like ionic coppers can. Just be sure you get a proper ammonia test kit that can read past the amines in Cupramine that will show a false possitive for ammonia. Seachems multi-test ammonia would be the best option.

I would also suggest you consider >>hyposalinity<<.

Cheers
Steve

 

[AnnnetteM]

ok, I have taken it all into consideration about the QT and I have decided to wait a few more days on this because of the expense and the fact that I am not buying anymore fish for this tank. I think it has reached it's max for bioload. I will only buy another 1-2 small fish if I eventually give the vlamingi away and I have a 10 gal hat I would use as a QT any future small fish. I took th advice of a friend and took 8 hours today to slowly bring my SG down to 1.016. I prepared my salt mix in the tub yesterday, did a 30 gal water change and slowly exchanged tank water for filtered water until after 8 hours the SG was down. Can this get rid of the ich on the fish? This friend did it and i worked for him. I have a UV ster and he told me that if I get my water quality back that with patience the ich will go away. He also suggested aquarm pham stress coat in the tank and I have it, but haven't put it in yet. I don't know if it will damage any corals, snails etc..Is it ok or not? And is what I'm doing in the main tank going to do anything bad as far as the SG? And how long should I leave it like this? He told me until the fish look good then wait another 10 days after that. Anymore suggestions? I just hated to spend so much money on tanks and filters then to just put them in the garage after. Oh, one more thing, I bought new bulbs for my Jalli hood and they are 65 watt each. I currently have 55 watt each in the hood. Can I put the 65 watts (4) or not? The LFS who set up my tank didn't leave me the info on the hood so I don't know about this. I figured if I was going to work all day on the tank I may as well change the bulbs too. I haven't put them in and will wait till I hear from someone if this is ok. Thanks you guys for all the info, it seems like I will never perfect this hobby. It kind of reminds me of golfing

 

[steve-s]

I took th advice of a friend and took 8 hours today to slowly bring my SG down to 1.016. I prepared my salt mix in the tub yesterday, did a 30 gal water change and slowly exchanged tank water for filtered water until after 8 hours the SG was down. Can this get rid of the ich on the fish?
This friend did it and i worked for him.

No. Hyposalinity will not work at that level. The SG needs to be reduced to 1.009 (14-16 ppt) to be an effective treatment against C. irritans and remain so for 4 weeks. Keep in mind that if you do this everything else in the tank will die as well. The only thing to survive will be the bacteria and the fish. If the 1.016 worked for your friend, I have serious doubts it was Cryptocaryon irritans affecting his/her fish.

I have a UV ster and he told me that if I get my water quality back that with patience the ich will go away. He also suggested aquarm pham stress coat in the tank and I have it, but haven't put it in yet. I don't know if it will damage any corals, snails etc..Is it ok or not?

UV's are not a cure for parasites by any means. They can however lower populations allowing proper remedies a helping hand though. Parasites are not a result of poor water quality, stress or otherwise. It either comes in with a fish that is not properly QT'd/treated or it's not there. C. irritans does not just simpley "appear" from nowhere. It would be like you having absolutley no contact with another human being and suddenly developing the flu. You have to catch it through some sort of contact

And is what I'm doing in the main tank going to do anything bad as far as the SG? And how long should I leave it like this? He told me until the fish look good then wait another 10 days after that.

As I said above, everything in the tank will perish if the lower salinity is maintained. Even the 1.016 SG you have now is most likely severely stressing all the inverts you have now, sessile and mobile alike. Many will not survive. If you perform the hyposalinity properly and drop it to the 1.009 required, everything will surely perish. If you are intent on this route, you need to remove all invertebrates. For hyposalinity to work it must be maintained at the 1.009 for 4 weeks. Not even ionic copper will remove C. irritans after 10 days.

Anymore suggestions? I just hated to spend so much money on tanks and filters then to just put them in the garage after.

It won't go to waste, keep the set up for any future fish purchases and always quarantine new arrivals for a minimum 4 weeks before they are placed in the display tank.

Oh, one more thing, I bought new bulbs for my Jalli hood and they are 65 watt each. I currently have 55 watt each in the hood. Can I put the 65 watts (4) or not? The LFS who set up my tank didn't leave me the info on the hood so I don't know about this. I figured if I was going to work all day on the tank I may as well change the bulbs too. I haven't put them in and will wait till I hear from someone if this is ok.

If the ballasts are for 55w bulbs, the 65's will not produce more light but they'll still work.

Cheers
Steve