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TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
The tubing goes into a quik-connect that fits directly onto the maxijet outlet pipe.
Tim's 54 Gallon Corner -> Going Reef
- Thread starter TLTGF
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Sniperhank
Giant Clam Addict
Did you t off your reactor?
OP
OP
TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
Not at all. I just put the maxi-jet in one end of the sump and the other end in the other side of the sump next to my return pump.
Sniperhank
Giant Clam Addict
Clever.
OP
OP
TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
More ignorance than anything... I didn't know how else to do it! 
Jlsardina
Aquarium Advice Addict
TLTGF said:More ignorance than anything... I didn't know how else to do it!
I did it the same way. Lol. I don't hard plumb.
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TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
Day's observation:
It hasn't been that warm lately here in Michigan, but today it got up in the upper 60's which means that my apartment was in the low 80's... (Thanks old ladies below me and to both my sides for keeping the heat so wonderful)
I had all the windows open and the AC on for awhile, and when doing the PWC's for the day, I realized that my 54 and frag / angler temp tank were both at 82F!
I shut the lights off for the frag tank, but I didn't mess with the 54. My guess is that having a skimmer pump, return pump, reactor pump, PH's and lights all add up! God help me if I have to buy a chiller!
Of course, if it continues to be an issue, I'll just buy a cheap fan first.
It hasn't been that warm lately here in Michigan, but today it got up in the upper 60's which means that my apartment was in the low 80's... (Thanks old ladies below me and to both my sides for keeping the heat so wonderful)
I had all the windows open and the AC on for awhile, and when doing the PWC's for the day, I realized that my 54 and frag / angler temp tank were both at 82F!
I shut the lights off for the frag tank, but I didn't mess with the 54. My guess is that having a skimmer pump, return pump, reactor pump, PH's and lights all add up! God help me if I have to buy a chiller!
Of course, if it continues to be an issue, I'll just buy a cheap fan first.
rob_mango
Aquarium Advice Addict
I am in Phoenix and I just run a fan and my tank sits around 77-78.5 so a fan should work
jjamontan
Aquarium Advice FINatic
I'm in phoenix as well fan works for me as well. It's going to be 100 by this weekend and need to find a new fan
Jlsardina
Aquarium Advice Addict
Lol. If all else fails you could always get a chiller off of Craigslist. It's always hot in Florida and I have never had the need for a chiller. However- the back of my stand is open and I have holes cut out of the top of my canopy to release any heat from the lights. My tank stays at a steady 77 degrees. I might also mention I always keep my air conditioning on at 72 degrees. It might be cheaper in the long run to run a chiller based on electric charges, or it might be better to run the a/c. I'd try the a/c first and see the expenses associated with it.
Gregcoyote
Aquarium Advice Addict
Nice to not worry about it. Buy a chiller. While a few swings into the upper 80's probably won't kill anything, it sure doesn't help anything either. I am on my third chiller, they last 8-10 years it seems.
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TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
Well - seems like the reactor is doing its job we'll - water is very nice.
Frogspawn got really happy again and full extended, but as fate would have it a demon snail knocked my large pachyseris coral right on to the octo and pissed it off something fierce...
Other than that - all good.
Frogspawn got really happy again and full extended, but as fate would have it a demon snail knocked my large pachyseris coral right on to the octo and pissed it off something fierce...
Other than that - all good.
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rob_mango
Aquarium Advice Addict
Sweet I am going to get one now that I know it works well
Sniperhank
Giant Clam Addict
I can't wait to get mine plumbed in tomorrow. Spent most of my day cleaning up both tanks and tore down the overflow and such to clean.
Your tank looks great. Hope mine will look as good when I'm done.
How did you get that rock on the side btw? Really neat idea.
Your tank looks great. Hope mine will look as good when I'm done.
How did you get that rock on the side btw? Really neat idea.
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TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
The rock on the side is called an Aqua-mag. It's a fake rock held up with a magnet. This is the smaller version, the jr. The only thing I don't like about it, is that there is only one magnet which makes the rock easy to spin around and the corals fall off if not in perfect balance. Snails and shrimp can affect it as well.
Jlsardina
Aquarium Advice Addict
TLTGF said:
Why not grab a set of magnets and superglue to the left and right side to make it more secure? You can get them at craft stores for relatively cheap
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OP
TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
I got mine figured out as far as the balance - haven't had anything happen in a long time. The problem is that the magnets need a rubber coating or something similar to ensure they don't scratch the glass.
You're right, all you need could be bought at a craft store.
You're right, all you need could be bought at a craft store.
Sniperhank
Giant Clam Addict
Oh yeah, I remember you reviewing that thing. Didn't you say the larger version has more magnets on it? Doesn't matter that much, but it is pretty cool.
OP
OP
TLTGF
Aquarium Advice Addict
Wanted to update the good and the bad.
Bad news first:
One of my clowns, the female, has a viral infection. I found a good amount of info in another forum and thought I would include it so that it may help others with the same problem.
"Many Forums I've read through have posted this uncertain appearance of a "Beard" on their clown fish. Although I wasn't the individual who originally found the disease, I did find a site that accurately shows the disease and do's/ don'ts for it.
FAQs: Fish Diseases, Treatments, Quarantine, Health Info
Lymphocystis is a chronic viral infection effecting susceptible fish resulting in the cauliflower or ward-like appearance of lesions on the afflicted fish’s fins and even the body. The size of these lesions can range from small irregular shaped spots as see in this hippo tang [not to be confused with ich], to large wart-like growths. Lymphocystis does not have to be a death sentence, however, and, in fact, it usually is not. Many fish with this condition may remain symptom-free; others will suffer significant disfigurement if the condition is not adequately addressed. Most typically, the effected fish will have minor spot symptoms that may come and go depending on adequacy of environment and food.
Lymphocystis growths
The growths seen on fish are not the virus itself, but the results of the virus. As the virus affects the connective tissues of the fish, cells are malformed, resulting in the production of skin cells that are grossly enlarged. This is the visible nodules seen on afflicted fish.
How is lymphocystis transmitted?
Lymphocystis is transmitted through direct contact of the fish with the virus in the water or by fish picking at the nodules on diseased fish. Water becomes a transmission medium when infected fish are introduced into the aquarium and the virus is released from the growths. The good news, however, is that the virus, while common, is not necessarily highly contagious. While one fish may be severely diseased, others in the aquaria never suffer ill-effects. The reason for this is because the virus affecting one fish may only be able to infect other same-species or closely related species of fish due to the DNA coding of any specific virus.
Treatment
Quarantine in a well-established hospital tank while the growths are present is the safest way to avoid contamination of the aquaria. However, if the quarantine is not well-established and minimally appropriate for the fish, then the diseased fish will not do well in quarantine, and may worsen. Infected fish can also be addressed within the display, with [low] risk of infecting other fish and with higher risk of the originally afflicted fish being re-infected. Since the disease, like any virus, is opportunistic with a weakened host, fish that are mishandled, not receiving adequate nutrition or reside in poor living environments are much more susceptible then well-established, highly cared for fish.
While the virus needs to run its course (approx. 1 month), effective treatment is fairly simple and involves basic husbandry practices that should be in place even without the presence or need to address lymphocystis. Treatment and care entails providing your aquarium and fish with excellent water conditions, a good environment, a tranquil community setting, and quality nutrition that addresses the specific needs of the afflicted fish. The addition of quality supplements such as Zoecon and fresh garlic is likely to enhance the fish’s chances for full-recovery. There is no medicinal treatment and attempting to treat with a product could well worsen the situation, especially if medications are dumped into the display aquaria.
As with any primary disease, secondary infections by bacteria, fungus or even parasites can result in weakened, sick fish. The hobbyist needs to be mindful of the development of secondary infections, which could be significantly more perilous to the fish than the lymphocystis and will require the removal of the fish to a quarantine for isolation and treatment."
Good news:
Overall, tank is doing well - lots and lots of growth.
Bad news first:
One of my clowns, the female, has a viral infection. I found a good amount of info in another forum and thought I would include it so that it may help others with the same problem.
"Many Forums I've read through have posted this uncertain appearance of a "Beard" on their clown fish. Although I wasn't the individual who originally found the disease, I did find a site that accurately shows the disease and do's/ don'ts for it.
FAQs: Fish Diseases, Treatments, Quarantine, Health Info
Lymphocystis is a chronic viral infection effecting susceptible fish resulting in the cauliflower or ward-like appearance of lesions on the afflicted fish’s fins and even the body. The size of these lesions can range from small irregular shaped spots as see in this hippo tang [not to be confused with ich], to large wart-like growths. Lymphocystis does not have to be a death sentence, however, and, in fact, it usually is not. Many fish with this condition may remain symptom-free; others will suffer significant disfigurement if the condition is not adequately addressed. Most typically, the effected fish will have minor spot symptoms that may come and go depending on adequacy of environment and food.
Lymphocystis growths
The growths seen on fish are not the virus itself, but the results of the virus. As the virus affects the connective tissues of the fish, cells are malformed, resulting in the production of skin cells that are grossly enlarged. This is the visible nodules seen on afflicted fish.
How is lymphocystis transmitted?
Lymphocystis is transmitted through direct contact of the fish with the virus in the water or by fish picking at the nodules on diseased fish. Water becomes a transmission medium when infected fish are introduced into the aquarium and the virus is released from the growths. The good news, however, is that the virus, while common, is not necessarily highly contagious. While one fish may be severely diseased, others in the aquaria never suffer ill-effects. The reason for this is because the virus affecting one fish may only be able to infect other same-species or closely related species of fish due to the DNA coding of any specific virus.
Treatment
Quarantine in a well-established hospital tank while the growths are present is the safest way to avoid contamination of the aquaria. However, if the quarantine is not well-established and minimally appropriate for the fish, then the diseased fish will not do well in quarantine, and may worsen. Infected fish can also be addressed within the display, with [low] risk of infecting other fish and with higher risk of the originally afflicted fish being re-infected. Since the disease, like any virus, is opportunistic with a weakened host, fish that are mishandled, not receiving adequate nutrition or reside in poor living environments are much more susceptible then well-established, highly cared for fish.
While the virus needs to run its course (approx. 1 month), effective treatment is fairly simple and involves basic husbandry practices that should be in place even without the presence or need to address lymphocystis. Treatment and care entails providing your aquarium and fish with excellent water conditions, a good environment, a tranquil community setting, and quality nutrition that addresses the specific needs of the afflicted fish. The addition of quality supplements such as Zoecon and fresh garlic is likely to enhance the fish’s chances for full-recovery. There is no medicinal treatment and attempting to treat with a product could well worsen the situation, especially if medications are dumped into the display aquaria.
As with any primary disease, secondary infections by bacteria, fungus or even parasites can result in weakened, sick fish. The hobbyist needs to be mindful of the development of secondary infections, which could be significantly more perilous to the fish than the lymphocystis and will require the removal of the fish to a quarantine for isolation and treatment."
Good news:
Overall, tank is doing well - lots and lots of growth.
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rob_mango
Aquarium Advice Addict
So how is the clown
