Ultimate water change system - Have I forgotten anything?

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If you add a quick disconnect to your drainline going into the tank, you could rig a vac tube with some hose. Then you could disconnect your fixed drsin strainer and substitute the hose when you want to vac. :D I started to build a similar set up but my wife objected to the 2 inch pcv running across the family room floor. :lol: :lol:
 
If you go to a hardware store, you can pick up a solonoid used for a washing machine, this will give you a fail safe "shut off", just tie it into the power for the pump, so when the pump kicks in it releases the solonoid and allows water to flow, if you are using syphon for the drain, then just hook it right up to a switch and it will start the flow aswell since there is water already in the line (just hook it up 1 or 2' from the tub)

This will also stop water from accidentally flowing, and the part is only about 15$ or so. (and uses standard 1/2" or 3/4" tubing.)

tying a second one in between the tub and the pump will also give you the ability to service the pump without draining the tub.

Great system :D
 
tying a second one in between the tub and the pump will also give you the ability to service the pump without draining the tub.
The tub is not a sump, merely a container to catch spills. If I ever set up a sump (that was considered for when I get a tank drilled with overflow boxes) I can just disconect the water out tube from the tank and leave the pump in the sump. As it is now, The pump intake brings water from the tank via hose, and the outflow goes directly inot a sink via hose and pvc enclosed. To service the pump, all I would have to do is clamp the hose. The siphon break holes are working. Here is a link that has the the whole thing:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomstank/tomstank_files/page0015.htm

"If you add a quick disconnect to your drainline going into the tank, you could rig a vac tube with some hose. Then you could disconnect your fixed drsin strainer and substitute the hose when you want to vac"

Great Idea!. but the clearance for working with the tubes behind the tank makes manipulation for routine stuff daunting. For gravel vacs, I will use the trusty old python. For effortless waterchanges between vacs, anytime and however often I want, the system takes about 5 minutes. When the day comes that I am too lazy to refill the holding tank with a hose, I will have a plumber run a spigot over to the holding tank :p

Thanks for the suggestions though! I would consider any modification that I can do myself to improve the system. I realize that people with sumps have probably done this a million times already. but this was my first solo brainstorm :D Check out the web link. If you think it can be made better, please suggest!
 

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I wasn't talking about a sump, I was talking about using one on the line that drains the tank and and one on the "holding tank" to prevent it from back syphoning your tank dry.. just a Saftey feature that prevents it from draining off accidentally, pumps don't always work as a stopper for water. with a solonoid stopping the water you can run the drain line directly to the floor drain or sink, flip the switch and the syphon stops, flip it again and it's on again, no pumps needed for draining.

(and I don't have a sump, nor have I set one up :D)
 
How about putting the whole thing on digital timers so you can set it to turn on and do the water changes automatically once a week?
 
jacktheknife said:
my only concern is to make sure the garbage can is of a high enough quality plastic that it will not be toxic to the fish. check the recycling number on the bottom of the can- lower is better. i would go 2 or less if i could find it-- no more than 3.
FYI, the "recycling number" has nothing to do with the quality of the plastic and whether or not it is toxic. It's simply an identifier for the type of plastic: 1 = PETE, 2 = HDPE, etc.

Food grade plastics have to meet an FDA or ANSI standard for their ability to leach additives (mainly plasticizers). If it wasn't specified when you bought the container, it probably isn't food grade, but the only way to know for sure is to contact the manufacturer.

That being said, there are plenty of folks out there that mix saltwater in garbage pails and use Rubbermaid sumps, so I wouldn't waste much time thinking about it...especially using tap water.
 
just a Saftey feature that prevents it from draining off accidentally, pumps don't always work as a stopper for water. with a solonoid stopping the water you can run the drain line directly to the floor drain or sink, flip the switch and the syphon stops,
ah. now I understand. I could have used a solonoid to prevent back siphoning with the water in tube instead of the holes I drilled in the tanks strainer tube just above water level. Another on the water out pipe to the sink so that I wouldn't need the siphon break above the sink (and maybe not even a water out pump too!). I wasn't using the pumps to stop backflow, I don' think they do, I set up siphon breaks that let air into the system to stop the siphon once the pumps are turned off. Interesting. Would a solonoid be more reliable that a physical siphon break?
How about putting the whole thing on digital timers so you can set it to turn on and do the water changes automatically once a week?
If I wasn't so paranoid about flooding the basement, I would love to! I have had two homes with water damage (not aquarium related) and it really stinks. Literally.
FYI, the "recycling number" has nothing to do with the quality of the plastic and whether or not it is toxic. It's simply an identifier for the type of plastic: 1 = PETE, 2 = HDPE, etc....That being said, there are plenty of folks out there that mix saltwater in garbage pails and use Rubbermaid sumps, so I wouldn't waste much time thinking about it...especially using tap water.
I thought so!
 
I started to build a similar set up but my wife objected to the 2 inch pcv running across the family room floor.
Did you try to hide it with a towel? or maybe the dog? :mrgreen:
 
A solonoid completely closes the line, 100% no syphon back, no chance of it either for any reason. which makes it an ideal on off switch for a water line (reason they are used in washing machines). and the nice thing, if below the water line in the tank, no suckin on tubing to start the syphon except for once.

for the filling line, the sypon break will work fine (essentially it's just having the tube above the waterline) there is little chance of it starting a syphon with no water to get.

Just my thoughts anyway, but you can have fun with it if you get the remote control wall outlets, no running around the corner to syphon or fill, just a remote drain on/off fill on/off. (and it would save the use of an extra pump since the syphon is always present when the solonoid kicks out.

my washer has had the same solonoid for 12 years, so I figure they are pretty reliable..

still a great concept you got goin :)
 
Just my thoughts anyway, but you can have fun with it if you get the remote control wall outlets, no running around the corner to syphon or fill, just a remote drain on/off fill on/off. (and it would save the use of an extra pump since the syphon is always present when the solonoid kicks out.
Wow, I could have saved the price of a magdrive pump, so your recomendation is excellent! And I had to buy one of the bigger (and costlier) magdrive pumps because of the 8 or 9 feet of head height. I originally planned to use a sump and pump water out of it, when I didn't set up a sump it never occurred to me that gravity could take care of all the "water out" needs! Not to mention the extra steps nedded to make a siphon break at the drain sink that could be avoided.Well, If I ever need the magdrive for something else I will convert over to your solonoid method. Till then this is working great! It is so cool to just push a button and watch the water go out, then push another and watch it go back in. Makes me WANT to change the water! - and thats why I did it.
Many thanks for all the suggestions, and keep them coming.
 
I wish I had the know how and the kahones to do what you have done. :wink:
My only concern is lint from the closthes dryer. My dryer even though its vented to the roof, always leaves lint flying around the washroom. Maye mine is not the norm, but be sure your holding tank is covered. I love this stuff. Give us a diagram (right after you patent it). :lol:
 
Give us a diagram (right after you patent it).
Thanks for all the nice feedback. I attached a diagram to an earlier post but I think you guys missed it. I will attach it again. Looks fancy as a diagram, in real life its a garbage can with a lot of wires and hoses around it. You can check out more detailed pics and stuff at:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomstank/tomstank_files/page0015.htm

and yes, the holding tank is covered.
 

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