Urgent: "Ich Attack" safe for shrimp and plants?

[lake_tuna]

This morning, I found a bunch of white dots on my fish. I've reading about how to treat it for a while now, and I read that Ich Attack by Kordon is safe for fish and plants. Does anyone else have experience with this and know whether it's safe for plants and fish?

 

[Crepe]

Tell us what is the main ingredient in it. If it has any copper in it, then no it would not be safe.

 

[lake_tuna]

Ich Attack is 100% Herbal based on Naphthoquinones. That's what the website says at least.

I actually have QuICK cure with me, but it says it's not safe with shrimp. However, I read from some ppl that it doesn't harm the shrimp.. I dont know who's right.

 

[Crepe]

I looked it up, the article i've found says it's safe for shrimp Kordon - Articles - White Spot Disease.
Ich attack that is.

 

[JustOneMore20]

I've used Ich Attack with plants and they were fine. Never used it with shrimp, but I have read that its safe for them. The temperature increase (if you choose to increase the temp to speed up the life cycle of the ich) would be something else to worry about with the shrimp. You should be able to get up to 83-84 or so without any problems though. Other folks might have more experience with high temps and shrimp to offer advice.

 

[dkpate]

I just bought some yesterday, and the guy at the LFS said he had to use it with his seahorses, and they were fine. Good luck!

 

[ChileRelleno]

I've plenty of first hand experience/use with ICH-Attack.
My QT has a few live plants, never bothered them, and it is safe for all FW fish/inverts.
100% natural, this stuff is great!

Don't hold back, use the max dosage combined with as high a temp as your livestock/plants can handle, 86'F+, I usually do 87-88'F if I can,
Higher temps, 87'F and higher will actually kill ICH as well as speed the life cycle.

Read these articles, read the linked articles/documents in their links, the Skeptical Aquarist has some especially good links.
"Knowledge is Power" & "Know thy Enemy", read, read, read, read, read...
SkepticalAquarist article
AquariumAdvice article
Cichlid-Forum article

Lets dispel a common 'Fish Myth' right off the bat...
ICH is NOT always present in the water/fish...
It is not airborne, it doesn't travel by Spores, it will not come in via tap-water during a PWC and it does not lay dormant.
It must be introduced in some way as noted below.

If you follow through on the 'Heat & Salt Treatment' as specified, I practically guarantee the 100% eradication of ICH within your tank...
Unless you re-introduce it thru lack of quarantine/preventative treatment with new fish, unquarantined/untreated transfers of plants, decor, water or by cross contamination thru the use of equipment in multiple tanks.

'Heat & Salt', either of these treatments alone can/will kill the ICH protozoa, together they eradicate ICH very effectively and completely.
This treatment is especially safe with Oscars as they are very tolerant of both heat & salt.
Please be aware that some fish, inverts and plants may not handle heat or salt well and treatment may need to be adjusted to fit their needs.


Temperature:
Raise it slowly, but ASAP, to at least 86'f, preferably 87'-88'f.
One degree (1'f) every twelve (12) hours is the normally recommended interval for increasing heat, but in a emergency like ICH I'd raise as much as one degree (1'f)every six (6) hours.

Duration:
Hold temp for at least two weeks after the last sign of ICH.

Oxygenate:
This is extremely important because water holds less O2 at higher temperatures.
Filter outflow splash, spraybar or powerhead flow directed at surface, airstone/bubblewands are good ways to increase surface agitation.

Salt:
Salt is not required, but it is IMHO very helpful and I recommend the combination of Heat & Salt.
I recommend continuing the 'Salt treatment' for the duration of the 'Heat treatment'.
Use at your discretion.
Be aware that some Cats/Plecos (in particular Corydoras), Tetras, Loaches and etc, can have adverse reactions to salt.
Fishes that navigate by electric fields, like Elephant Noses, Knifefish, certain Eels should never be exposed to salt.
Many plants are intolerant-highly intolerant of salt.



For detailed info about salt check this out, SkepticalAquarist- Salt

Here are the conversions/measurements for dosing salt from a reliable source, see page four (4), table 3, units in parentheses.
conversions/measurements
Note; you may want to adjust your dosage +/- as desired.


Water Changes/Vacuuming SubstrateWater changes are very helpful in fighting ICH infestations.
Using a gravel vacuum, do a large water change and thorough vacuuming water on a daily basis.
This eliminates a great number of trophozoites and tomites from the water/substrate.

Other ways to combat ICH
A UVS, Ultraviolet sterilizer when properly setup will kill free-floating ICH.
A Diatom filter will capture and kill ICH too.
Micron filtration depending on the size may perform as Diatom does.


Medications:
I would only recommend the use of standard* medications as a last resort, and used in conjunction with the heat treatment at slightly lower temps, 80'-82'F, these temps will greatly speed up the life-cycle and shorten the time needed to medicate successfully.
IMO this is the last resort, a truly desperate measure for a ICH infestation gone unchecked...
I cannot recommend any of the standard* meds, use at your own risk.
Their effectiveness when used as directed is controversial, despite manufactures claims some still seem to affect a tanks bio-filter and many fish-keepers report undue stress related complications.
Many ICH meds will adversely affect/kill scaleless fishes and inverts.
Many ICH meds will also further deplete oxygen levels, take countermeasures as per above.

*A non standard med, ICH-Attack.
ICH-Attack is a 100% natural remedy that has proven anti-protozoal and anti-fungal properties.
Active ingredient is Naphtoquinone which is not known to be carcinogenic as many standard meds are.
Manufactured by Kordon, available at various retailers.
DrsFosterSmith

If you use standard meds the read this...


Please realize that ICH like everything else in the world has it's exceptions, however rare.
There has been cases where ICH has been able to complete its full life cycle under the fishes slimecoat/skin, rendering it for all intents untreatable.
There are cases where ICH has survived salt as high as five (5) tablespoon per five (5) gallons. (Not sure as to what this dosage equaled when measured in 'ppm' or 'specific gravity'.)
There is one (That I know of.) reported and documented case where ICH survived temps beyond 87'-88'f.
These are rare exceptions, not the norm.


These are my opinions, this is how I would treat my fish, just my $0.02...
Goodluck!

 

[ChileRelleno]

I actually have QuICK cure with me, but it says it's not safe with shrimp. However, I read from some ppl that it doesn't harm the shrimp.. I dont know who's right.

That will depend on dosage, e.g. Tetras take a half dose, perhaps they weren't using a full dose and/or not for multiple days.

I'd not use it on any inverts.