Water changes with high nitrates

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Could I ask a question about how to treat prime? Weird question i know, but I've been using API ammo lock so far and am able to dose 1-2mL in a 10 litre bucket for that, but Prime is more concentrated than that. Do I drain half the tank, treat for a full 37gal and then refill?
 
Can some just help me with how to treat prime? Weird question i know, but I've been using API ammo lock so far and am able to dose 1-2mL in a 10 litre bucket for that, but Prime is more concentrated than that. Do I drain half the tank, treat for a full 37gal and then refill?

Yep! Just treat for the tank size before you refill. :)
 
I'm dealing with high nitrates aswell. Been going on for about 10 days. I've tried 25 % water change every 3-4 days.. Didn't help at all. Tank is 36 gal, tap water nitrate is 0. Kept doing water changes, more frequently and nothing. Still at 40.. So I rinsed my filter and media which was pretty bad! And did another water change of 30%. Nitrates still 40, maybe 30. Will cleaning the filter now help lower the nitrates. Or do I need to just keep changing the water?

I'm dealing with high nitrates aswell. Been going on for about 10 days. I've tried 25 % water change every 3-4 days.. Didn't help at all. Tank is 36 gal, tap water nitrate is 0. Kept doing water changes, more frequently and nothing. Still at 40.. So I rinsed my filter and media which was pretty bad! And did another water change of 30%. Nitrates still 40, maybe 30. Will cleaning the filter now help lower the nitrates. Or do I need to just keep changing the water?

I want to add another sun burst platy or 2 because I have 2 males and 1 female and one of the males is being picked on. My pet stores nitrates are like 5... Will that shock the fish to add it.. I always introduce them slowly. Btw my tank is not over stocked.
 
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I do two a week. Monday's and Thursday's. I was having problems with the nitrates being a little high. Since I've started doing this they are down to a good level. I take about 20-30% each time give or take. Sometimes I take out a little bit more by not paying attention to the bucket filling up, lol. :whistle:
 
Off topic posts have been removed! Please keep posts on the topic at hand, which is lowering nitrate levels via water changes, not lowering nitrate levels via plants or if high nitrates are in fact harmful to fish. If you want to discuss those topics, please start your own threads.
 
Just change 100% of the tank water in one go if that's the advice you want to tank

Good luck
 
I'm dealing with high nitrates aswell. Been going on for about 10 days. I've tried 25 % water change every 3-4 days.. Didn't help at all. Tank is 36 gal, tap water nitrate is 0. Kept doing water changes, more frequently and nothing. Still at 40.. So I rinsed my filter and media which was pretty bad! And did another water change of 30%. Nitrates still 40, maybe 30. Will cleaning the filter now help lower the nitrates. Or do I need to just keep changing the water?



I want to add another sun burst platy or 2 because I have 2 males and 1 female and one of the males is being picked on. My pet stores nitrates are like 5... Will that shock the fish to add it.. I always introduce them slowly. Btw my tank is not over stocked.


Usually, doing a water change, any water change, will dilute a nitrate reading by at least the percentage of water you changed. If you are not seeing any changes in your nitrate reading, I'd suggest you take a sample of your water to your LFS and check to see that your reagents are still good. In the past, the nitrate reagents in some test kits were the first to go bad and that may be why you are not seeing any changes in your readings.

Hope this helps (y)
 
WOW, there is a lot of info in this thread I'm having problems getting my head around. They defy the natural ways the biology of fish keeping works. That being said, in the old days ( I started keeping fish in the 1960s) we just did a 10%-15% weekly water change and didn't have the type of problems I see on a number of threads on this site. I believe there are too many people having nitrate problems due to over stocking and over feeding. Larger filters don't make nitrates disappear so todays' better filters are not the answer. 50% or larger water changes are a recipe for disasters due to excess shock of the changes that can happen.
Using basic math, if you dilute something by 10%, the original number must go down. If you have a higher than "normal" nitrate reading, you can do a 10% daily change with little harm to your fish and within a few days, have your readings back into the safe range. (assuming the reading isn't overly high at the start.) From that point, care must be taken to not over stock or over feed and a better hygene practice needs to be put into place in the tank. Gravel, while nice to look at, is a big contributor to higher nitrate readings as detritus and leftovers are prone to get lost in the gravel and deteriorate. Every water change should include cleaning a section of your gravel bed to help remove excess from the tank. You don't want to clean all the gravel at once as your BB bed is within the gravel bed as well.
HOB filters need to be changed periodically. In an established aquarium, the BB is found in more areas than just the filter pads so replacing them should have little effect on the tank. You should be mindful however to not add to the bioload in the tank while this new filter pad gets established.
There's an old addage that goes" Dilution is the Solution to Pollution." This definitely applies to fish tanks.

Hope this helps
 
It seems to me that our aquariums are a veritable cesspool of organic waste (nitrates) compared to the natural environments our fish our found in. I have never seen a fish react adversely to water change between 50-100% of the water. Obviously, if you change 100% of the water you would need to acclimate the fish to the water just as you would if you purchased a new fish. The newer water is so much freer of this waste it couldn't possibly have more of an adverse effect on them than keeping them in the same level or a slightly reduced level (10-25% wc) of nitrates.
 
It seems to me that our aquariums are a veritable cesspool of organic waste (nitrates) compared to the natural environments our fish our found in. I have never seen a fish react adversely to water change between 50-100% of the water. Obviously, if you change 100% of the water you would need to acclimate the fish to the water just as you would if you purchased a new fish. The newer water is so much freer of this waste it couldn't possibly have more of an adverse effect on them than keeping them in the same level or a slightly reduced level (10-25% wc) of nitrates.

Actually taking a fish out of a horrid water conditions and straight into pristine water can harm/kill them. To the OP, i believe that we should never have to do more than one water change a week,at most. If your tank requires 2 weekly water changes than there is an underlying problem that needs addressed. Unless of course the tank is purposely overstocked
 
It seems to me that our aquariums are a veritable cesspool of organic waste (nitrates) compared to the natural environments our fish our found in. I have never seen a fish react adversely to water change between 50-100% of the water. Obviously, if you change 100% of the water you would need to acclimate the fish to the water just as you would if you purchased a new fish. The newer water is so much freer of this waste it couldn't possibly have more of an adverse effect on them than keeping them in the same level or a slightly reduced level (10-25% wc) of nitrates.

Actually, our aquariums should be an example of a balanced eco-system which means that there should not be an ultra high concentration of "end by-products" such as nitrates. Since we are dealing with a closed system, that isn't always possible which means we need to take more action to keep the levels from becoming toxic. By doing smaller, more frequent water changes, the level of nitrates should remain low in a balanced tank. A good aquarist (IMO) will be mindful of not overcrowding their tanks. Overcrowding a tank purposely is really a questionable method of fish keeping and the cause of a lot of problems. While overcrowding is a typical method of keeping African Cichlids, there are other methods of keeping smaller quantities of these fish safely.
Re: 100% water changes, constantly needing to re-acclimate your fish after doing this will eventually take it's toll on the fish. Fish prefer consistency over radical change( even if the change is to better water quality.) Gradual change to the bad is more tolerable than rapid exposure to bad conditions. (Same goes for good water as well.) It's the reason many fish that are brought into pet stores for trade ins don't always survive. They don't handle the change from their poor environments from the home to the better environment in the store because even with acclimation, the time frame for doing this is usually longer than 1 hour ( the timeframe some use as acclimation time.) Obviously there are exceptions but this is more about the rule than the exception.

Re your comment" I have never seen a fish react adversely to water change between 50-100% of the water." is a pretty incredible thing to me or maybe you have not been exposed to that large a variety of fish. As an importer, I had to constantly be adjusting how much water was being changed in tanks as some of the fish could handle more rapid changes than others. I HAVE seen fish react adversely to water changes between 50%-100% so let's call that one a draw. ;)

Re your comment: "The newer water is so much freer of this waste it couldn't possibly have more of an adverse effect on them than keeping them in the same level or a slightly reduced level (10-25% wc) of nitrates." If we were to take a nitrate level of say, 10 PPM and you change 10%, it will reduce it to 9 PPM, not a major change and if you do 25%, you go from 10 down to 7.5 PPM which is still not a major change as all of these levels are happening within the acceptable levels of a healthy tank. Now say you have a level of 100PPM and you do 10%, it brings it to 90 PPM which is a decent change but if you do 25%, you go down to 75 PPM and THAT is a major change for a fish and major changes are not good for fish.

Hope this explains it (y)
 
You're not explaining anything to me that I don't already know. If you keep all of your aquariums at less than 10 ppm of nitrates by doing 10-25% water changes then you have my personal congratulations.
 
The more frequent and larger water changes you do, the closer your tank water is to your tap water there by having no effect on your fish when you do large water changes. Your fish will love the constant clean water. Just try it and watch your nitrates stay nice and low and your fish colours brighten up.
 
The more frequent and larger water changes you do, the closer your tank water is to your tap water there by having no effect on your fish when you do large water changes. Your fish will love the constant clean water. Just try it and watch your nitrates stay nice and low and your fish colours brighten up.

+1 im doing 45% every other day. You just have to be sure not to overdose dechlorinator.
 
can some one help me ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1392555389.493160.jpgI just got myself a api master test kit and tested my water last night ammonia 0.25 ph 8.0 nitrite unsure its 2.0 or 5.0 nitrate 5.0 im new to fish keeping and could realy do with some help
 
can some one help me View attachment 222934I just got myself a api master test kit and tested my water last night ammonia 0.25 ph 8.0 nitrite unsure its 2.0 or 5.0 nitrate 5.0 im new to fish keeping and could realy do with some help

Hey mate, sounds like you're halfway through your cycle. Whether its 2 or 5 doesn't matter too much, just keep dosing your ammonia back to around 4ppm until your test readings 24 hrs after dosing show:
0 ammonia
0 nitrite
Any number of nitrates.

Then perform a large water change with dechlorinator in order to get nitrates ideally to 10ppm or less (this is all relative, so if you have 40ppm nitrates, change 3/4 of water to get 10ppm).

Dose 4ppm ammonia after this change to double check you're fully cycled, test 24hrs later. If it shows the same as I described earlier, with less than 20 nitrates, your tank is cycled and ready to stock with fish :)
 
i have fish in my tank and my tank was cycaled 4 weeks ago
 
no sorry must be around 6 weeks and the water was tested 4 weeks ago and all levels were fine
 
i have fish in my tank and my tank was cycaled 4 weeks ago

Sorry to break it to you but if you're testing and getting nitrites and ammonia your tank wasnt quite done cycling :/

To ensure harmless water quality for your fish you should perform water changes to get nitrites to an unreadable level (I recommend a 90% WC to begin with), and regular testing every day afterwards. If ammonia gets over 0.25 you should do a 50% WC.

Adding fast growing plants will help the cycle + lessen need for water changes. Some good examples are anacharis, wisteria, moneywort and frogbit.
 
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