Originally Posted by jenelle
Thank Aqua_Chem. I'll try not to bother you after this.....
If you were barging into my living room while I'm drinking my morning coffee and reading Garfield to ask me questions about your tank, then we would need to have words. As it stands, people actually come to this site for the purpose of being bothered, so you shouldn't feel like you have to apologize.
I have the citric acid/bicarbonate in pop bottles set up. It's okay, but not great. I get very frustrated trying to regulate the bubbles. Speeds up, slows down to nothing; it has a very inconsistent dial. I get by with it, but also I've not been able to grow anything beyond the really basic plants (and I usually tear them all out due to algae every few months.)
As I said, that system is a bit old school, and has largely been replaced with a yeast/sugar setup which is similarly cheap and might require less maintenance, although will still need to be attended to every 1-2 weeks.
When you say I'm underdosing, do you mean I'm under utilizing Flourish? (I'm following the directions)... how could I improve that if I stick with my finicky C02 system for now.
Flourish products generally only supply micronutrients (Zinc, iron, etc) in appreciable amounts. You need to supply macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) via other means. Directly adding those nutrients as salts provided by that EI started package is the best way. In the case of your tank, you have micronutrients, light, and CO2
, so your plants grow until they run out of macronutrients, as they are the most limiting factor. Running out of nitrogen (nitrates) stops the plant growth, and makes a great environment for BGA/cyanobacteria.
I recommend none of those systems. They're nice. Really nice. Expensive
nice, if you know what I mean. The Milwaukee m957
regulator is <$100 and will work reasonably well until you either break it by doing something stupid, you leave the hobby, or your house gets hit by an astroid. The GLA regulators are nice, but they're basically spinners and spoilers when you really just need a commuter car. Similarly, a $15 manual needle valve and drop counter, like what comes on the Milwaukee regulator, will keep a steady, reliable CO2
level, while the pH probe setups will be much more expensive (~$100 or so) and be less reliable
in many circumstances.
You can be into CO2
for $150, including regulator, tank, and diffuser, if you really wanted to go down that route.