Crazy high pH and rising!

[SpaceButler]

I did a test on my tap water, and the pH was on the lowest end of the 7.4-8.6 (or something) test. Then I tested my aquarium water, and it was somewhere around 8.2... which is higher than just a few days ago, which is higher than a few days before that.

I had some slate rock in there... a few pieces which I took a lot of care to clean. Sorry it's such a huge picture, I was just in a hurry.

I took it out because I can't think of any other culprit right now. Do you think this is my problem? If so, what can I do to leave them in my tank? I've purchased a pH neutralizer, but haven't used it yet, because I'm trying to minimize the chemicals in my tank.

TIA

 

[Drake]

What are you using for the substrate? Coral would rasie the ph of the water and that could be the problem.

 

[Xtremez]

If you have a salt water aquarium the pH should be between 8-8.5. Now if it's fresh water there are some substances that could be added to the aquarium to lower the pH, if money is not an issue Aquarium pharmicuticals makes a DI (de-ionizer) unit called the "Tap Water Purifier" and sells for around $50. The replacement cartridges are about $25 to $30. This de-ionizer works well if your water is not too hard and will produce about 50 to 80 gallons per cartridge.

Some fish stores sell RO/DI water for about 50 cents per gallon.

RO/DI water does need to be re-constituted before use in freshwater aquariums. Aquarium Pharmicuticals makes an additive called "Electro-Right" for use with it's Tap Water Purifier. It can be used with RO water as well.

pH will get lower as the water softens so softener pillows in the filter are recommended

 

[SpaceButler]

It is a freshwater. *checks to make sure he's in the right forum*

I did test the water out of the tap, and it was acceptable at 7.4 or a little lower. It's just the water after it's been in the tank that's trouble, so I don't think I need the RO/DI water. I believe it has to be something in the tank. I'm not sure what kind of gravel it is.... It's a pretty big grain and seems to be of many varying pebbles. I can get a picture when I get off of work (mehehe).

 

[An t-iasg]

Do a "test" on the substrate -- pour a glass of tap water (or however you get water ready for a change) and let it sit overnight. Do a pH test on the water. Add some substrate, and let that sit overnight. Do another pH test and compare to the regular water reading. You could let it sit for a few more days, and do a test every day. After about 5 days of testing, you'll probably see if the pH is rising due to the substrate in the glass.

 

[SpaceButler]

I'll try that.

 

[Menagerie]

I feel like I have asked this before. Have you tested the tap water AFTER it has sat out overnight?

*edit--I am not loosing my mind! I did ask that Q: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=42506&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=10

 

[SpaceButler]

I suppose I haven't. But I just tested it with just gravel in it overnight. It's way high. Suppose I'll try just a regular glass of tap water overnight to see.

If it is the gravel doing that, do you spose I ought to replace it? That doesn't sound like fun. Do they make gravel specifically suited for salt water or what?

 

[SpaceButler]

Oh crap, oh crap!

I left some water to sit out overnight, and when I tested it today, the pH had gone from 7.0-8.0+! What does this mean for me?

If anyone has some good options, I'd love to hear them. My fish look healthy and active, but I know looks can be deceiving. I'm sure it's possible that the situation could be in the realm of safety, but I just don't like having a parameter I can't control.

 

[youronlysin]

It can be tough and expensive to fix pH problems ifthey come from the tap...I dont know the fix, but Im sure someone will post. As far as I know, Oscars can thrive in water with a higher pH...if thats what you have in the tank. Ifthats all you have for stock, I wouldnt be too concerned with fixing the high pH problem, so long as it is constant and doesnt fluctuate much.

 

[n5xmt]

you can also use "PH Down" and add a little, check it the next day, add a little etc till it's where you need to be... just DON'T add more than they say and don't change the PH more than 0.2/24 hours

 

[BrianNY]

Have to disagree with pH down because the pH will not be stable until the buffering in the tank is corrected.

This article will give a great explanation.http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=40

 

[Menagerie]

Well, at least you know it's not the tank that's doing this.

 

[An t-iasg]

How big is the tank? I did a substrate change once, and it wasn't too bad. Of course, it was a 5 gallon tank! If it would give you peace of mind to change the substrate, then go ahead. You'll still want to save some old substrate to put in a bucket in the tank (or in some new, clean pantyhose) so you're not taking out all the good bacteria in your gravel all at once. I would probably change half out at a time. Search for some threads and articles on changing substrate. While some old gravel is still in the tank, you may still some pH rises, but it won't be as high, and doing the changeover in stages will help the fish acclimate too.

 

[jerman]

possible co2 contamination

a lot of areas use co2 to pressurize thier water system, especially in the winter. The co2 will keep what I am assuming is "hard" water ata a lower PH, then when is gasses of the PH rises.
Do you ever geta cloudy glass of water from the tap thats full of little micro bubbles that dissipate. If so uyou have co2 injection, even without the bubble you still might have co2 saturated water. just a possibilty

 

[rich311k]

What is the KH and GH of your water. It must be very hard. Te reduce it you will need ro/di water. How are your fish doing? Have they been in the tank a long time?

 

[jcarlilesiu]

A pressurized CO2 system will keep the PH in check, especually if you put a controller on it to regulate it. CO2 naturally softens water, thus causing the PH to lower. A controller will maintain that PH by turning the CO2 off and on with in the perameters you set. This however is an expensive option.

I would advise against PH down, as this chemical will do nothing more than constantly stress your fish. If you do water changes you have to add more PH down as your tap water is very hard. This will cause a fluctuation which fishies no like. I would definatly say that a stable PH is much more desired than an optimal PH.

 

[TomK2]

A stable and high pH usually isn't a problem. My pH is stable at 7.6 to 7.8 . I agree that co2 equalization is probably why your tap water is a higher pH after sitting out overnight. I have heard that peat moss in a filter compartment can safely and slowly lower the pH, but I have never done this. I just live with the higher pH. Many of the fish you are likely to buy are not wild caught, but tank or commercially raised, and have adapted to the harder and more alkaline water so common in much of North America. I agree that the pH altering chemicals commonly advertised are a recipe for pH swings and fish problems.

 

[toddnbecka]

With such a high pH from the tap, african cichlids would be the easiest fish to deal with. It's much easier to RAISE and stabilize pH than to lower and stabilize it.