Help me before its too late!

[chappers]

Hi there,

A couple of weeks a go i bought a new fluvial osaka 260, set it all up and filled it with water, some large bog wood with mature java turn (14inches) and another large bog wood with a mature plant on it too. Unfortunately for reasons out of my control i simply had to add fish a couple of days ago, the tank is not yet cycled (i assume), i am new to the tropical game so please excuse my beginners knowledge.

Before you all tell me i shouldn't have added the fish, i know, i know the tank needs time to cycle etc but there was no option so what i want to know is how i can do my best to avoid the dreaded algae break outs etc.

SO in the tank now is about 8 platys, 2 very young platy fry and a 2 inch red tail shark. They have been in there for a few days now and seem VERY happy and so far the water is crystal clear but any ideas how i could avoid or help to avoid the inevitable new tank syndrome?

 

[jlk]

Hi and welcome!! Theres nothing wrong with fish-in cycling as long as you are responsible and willing to commit yourself to the care of your fish. If you feel you will be unable to do this, return the fish until your tank is cycled.

Crystal clear water does not indicate anything here- do you have an API or other liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate & ph? This is a MUST have- you will need to test your water daily & do water changes as needed to keep your toxin levels down. Algae is the least of your worries right now- keeping you fish healthy should be your primay concern. Please read the link below & ask any questions you may have!

I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!

 

[Jess1ca]

My story is similar to yours, I recieved a brand new tank complete with fish for my birthday I didnt know about cycling and neither did my husband who gave me the gift. I am currently fish in cycling and the best advice I can give you is invest in an API master test kit as jlk suggested and daily water changes I am by no means an expert at this, but the people hear are very nice and help guide you through! The master test kit IS a LIFESAVER!

 

[chappers]

Thanks for the replies, i do not have a testing kit but will get one straight away. But I am assuming that the best way to ensure things go as best they can is to keep do PWC daily?

 

[Jess1ca]

Thanks for the replies, i do not have a testing kit but will get one straight away. But I am assuming that the best way to ensure things go as best they can is to keep do PWC daily?

Yes! Keeps the ammonia/nitrite levels down which are toxic to fish from what I gather I have been cycling for 9 days now, I do approximately 70% water change a day. Also if you go to AngelsPlus online you can order an active filter to boost your cycle. They are decently priced and arrive quickly!

 

[chappers]

Thanks, i actually have some filter boost liquid already, which i added. would a 70% water change be essential in a 260l?

Will there be any visual indications of good/bad/indifferent cycling apart from my fish meeting their maker?

 

[Jess1ca]

I'm not sure what liters are in gallons? I have a 55 gallon so its easier for me to just do extra while I'm doing it, ya know what I mean? I believe the standard is 50% if ur ammonia levels are running high it may be necessary to do more or even back to back pwc. I'm hoping jlk will hop back online and chime in, she knows her stuff way better than I as I am new to fishkeeping too I'm not quite sure of the symptoms of ammonia poisoning :/ wish I could help more but I'm sure someone will jump in here and fill you in! Just keep changing that water! I think the smaller the tank warrants more changes, but I could be wrong!

 

[chappers]

Thanks again, 260l is around 68 gallons I believe, at least I think that is was mr google said!

Thanks for your help, lets hope one of the experts comes a knocking!

 

[Jess1ca]

Thanks again, 260l is around 68 gallons I believe, at least I think that is was mr google said!

Thanks for your help, lets hope one of the experts comes a knocking!

Oh they will, very helpful folks they are! It is a lot of water to move in the big tanks I'm almost a pro lol. I have rigged a syphon tube out my window and then another hose that I tape to my faucet and run it straight to the tank ( after dosing with prime of course) and ur very welcome! Just passing along what I've learned! Glad to help! Keep me updated!

 

[Jess1ca]

Oh exact water temp. Is needed for pwc! That's very important! I use a digital kitchen probe to get mine exact

 

[jlk]

Thanks, i actually have some filter boost liquid already, which i added. would a 70% water change be essential in a 260l?

Will there be any visual indications of good/bad/indifferent cycling apart from my fish meeting their maker?

The filter boost liquids in my opinion are a waste of money because the majority of them do not contain the correct bacteria needed to establish a cycle. An API master test kit is a must here- it will help you to determine whether a water change is necessary & how much to change. For example, if you have a reading of .50ppm of ammonia, a 50% water change will drop this down to .25pmm.

I suspect with only a few fish right now in this size tank, you will have some wiggle room for error. Larger tanks are easier to keep stable- more water equals more dilution & less drastic swings in water parameters. Once again, its almost impossible to know whats really going on without a test kit. If your toxin levels are increasing, you may notice some unusual behavior in your fish- they may stop eating, start to swim eractically or frantically, they may gasp at the surface, you may see rapid gill movement or flashing. These are all indicators of a water quality issue.

Get yourself a test kit & let us know what the results are & we will be better able to help you!

 

[Jess1ca]

The filter boost liquids in my opinion are a waste of money because the majority of them do not contain the correct bacteria needed to establish a cycle. An API master test kit is a must here- it will help you to determine whether a water change is necessary & how much to change. For example, if you have a reading of .50ppm of ammonia, a 50% water change will drop this down to .25pmm.

I suspect with only a few fish right now in this size tank, you will have some wiggle room for error. Larger tanks are easier to keep stable- more water equals more dilution & less drastic swings in water parameters. Once again, its almost impossible to know whats really going on without a test kit. If your toxin levels are increasing, you may notice some unusual behavior in your fish- they may stop eating, start to swim eractically or frantically, they may gasp at the surface, you may see rapid gill movement or flashing. These are all indicators of a water quality issue.

Get yourself a test kit & let us know what the results are & we will be better able to help you!

I have heard that! I bought a bottle of Nutrifin cycle when I got my new tank and haven't used it because I heard only the refridgerated bb works, so I'm gonna take mine back

 

[jlk]

I have heard that! I bought a bottle of Nutrifin cycle when I got my new tank and haven't used it because I heard only the refridgerated bb works, so I'm gonna take mine back

Some people swear by the bottled products! I just question how its possible for bb to survive in a bottle with no oxygen or food.... just my opinion anyway!

 

[chappers]

update!!

Right, I now have a fancy test kit! whoop whoop, so what now? I have done loads of reading on the subject but could someone guide me what I should do in xyz situation.

My first test showed that I had ammonia, nitrate and nitrite present but not at high levels. Since then I have changed 20% water 4 days running, will test again tonight

When and how much water should I be changing for different reading?

 

[blert]

Right, I now have a fancy test kit! whoop whoop, so what now? I have done loads of reading on the subject but could someone guide me what I should do in xyz situation.

My first test showed that I had ammonia, nitrate and nitrite present but not at high levels. Since then I have changed 20% water 4 days running, will test again tonight

When and how much water should I be changing for different reading?

Excellent.

First, do all tests on your source water to get a baseline of what you add to the tank.

Next, test for ammonia. If it is above 0.25ppm do an appropriate water change. Example: test shows 0.50ppm, do a 50% PWC to bring it back down to 0.25. This, of course, assumes that your tap water has no ammonia or chloramine in it.

Then test nitrite. Same rules apply to this one as ammonia.

Now check nitrate. If it is above 20ppm do an appropriate PWC.

As for pH... It is not important to have any one specific value here. What is important is that it stays stable. You may need to let a cup of your source water sit out over night (preferably with some sort of agitation: air stone, power head) to get the true value.

 

[chappers]

thanks

Thanks a lot, that is really helpful.

what would be the appropriate PWC for high nitrate?

How often should I be testing and changing water? Daily I assume?

 

[ejaramillo01]

Remember to add the dechlorinator every time that you add water.
The most recommended brand is PRIME, but you can use other if this is not available.

Regarding the bottle products to speed up your cycle, I will give it a try. Many people truly experienced good results, and yes, the majority did not. But it will deserve a try IMO.

 

[ejaramillo01]

Thanks a lot, that is really helpful.

what would be the appropriate PWC for high nitrate?

How often should I be testing and changing water? Daily I assume?

I will be more concern for ammonia and nitrites at this point, because you are cycling the tank, in other words, if you are doing PWC to reduce ammonia or nitrites, the chances are that you are reducing nitrates by default.

Once the tank is fully cycled, you should never detect ammonia and nitrites, I would recommend to do PWC for nitrates once they reach 30 ppm.

And yes daily PWC are possible, but depends of your readings.

 

[blert]

Thanks a lot, that is really helpful.

what would be the appropriate PWC for high nitrate?

How often should I be testing and changing water? Daily I assume?

As all PWC, it depends on your source water. Let's say your source water has 10ppm nitrate. Now, if your tank had 40ppm nitrate and you do a 50% water change then you brought your tank down to 30ppm nitrate. Get it? The same applies for ammonia and nitrite. If there is any ammonia or nitrite in your source water it is a good idea to pick up a bottle of Prime as it will temporarily detoxify ammonia and nitrite.

With a 'fish in' cycle I personally would be checking ammonia, nitrite and pH daily.

 

[chappers]

Thanks for the feedback, I read somewhere that I should have a certain level of fish per gallon to set my ammonia levels at a certain level for best cycling? I believe it was 1 hardy fish (platy, danio etc) per 2-3 gallons, is this BS?

Also is water temperature a factor in this?