level issues in upgraded tank... need help please.

[Shon]

Hello first off this is a 29L and has all my fish from my 10 gallon including a zebra pleco(i might be wrong it only gets 4in and has markins like a zebra or tiger.),one more albino Cory cat, one female gold gouramni, one neon green tetra, and one silver tetra. My filtration is a aqueon quietflow 10 and aqueon quietflow 30. I have a fluval 300w heater although its set so my tank stays round 78° +/-2°. I started this tank the 7th of February with 2 gallons of water from my 10 (the tank my stock came out of) and the rest had sat. The levels was a little high but are adjusting. My lfs manager says its still cycling and not to worry. However I did a water change (50%) Saturday because the water was pretty nasty. Sunday levels was fine and seemed to be getting to normal. Today I noticed a white foam in the top of my tank round 2 that wasn't there when I left round 11. I noticed my filter in my 30 was not operating normally so I changed the filter round 9 this evening after buying more. My levels are pH 6 ammonia 2.0ppm nitrite 5.0ppm nitrate .25ppm I use the API master test kit for freshwater. Is this a concern or should I just continue 25% water change weekly and a 50% once a month(or one week instead of 25 I do 50). Any advice on this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and advice. Also I just added the aqueon quietflow 10 round 4 today after noticing this problem.

 

[phishfriend]

OK, first thing. Stop changing the filter pads. Those things only need to be replaces if they are falling apart. The reason you don't change them is that's where most of your Beneficial live. If they get really gunked up you just rinse then off in old tank water pulled in a water change. never rinse than under tap water.

When you upgraded. You should have moved your old filter to the new tank But, that's water under the bridge at this point.

Now, This is where it sounds like you are. Your tank is cycling and with the stock you have in there the bio-load is petty big. At this point your system cant handle it. That's why your ammonia lvl's are 2ppm. You need to get that down to around .25 to.50 as quickly as possible for the safety of your fish. Do a couple of back to back 50% water changes. wait 2 to 3 hours and test to see where your at. Keep doing water changes till that ammonia lvl is down.
Then your going to have to keep doing water changes every day or every other day depending on the ammonia lvl until the tank is cycled. You can increase your heat slowly to 82 or 84F. That will help the multiple faster.

The foam on the top of the water may be protein. Try increasing the surface movement by dropping the water lvl or adding an air stone.

 

[Rivercats]

Right now your BB cycling is stalled as your Ph is only 6. What is your taps Ph reading after you take a cup of water and let it sit with either an airstone running in it or stirring it over 24 hours, then do your Ph test. This will give you a true Ph reading for your tap water. Post your results to see what steps need to be taken. For right now add 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda dissovled in a cup of tank water to help boost your Ph by adding some buffers in. Do you have a Kh and Gh test kit? You also may have to add some Crushed Coral to your filter or in a media bag under your outflow depending on what your tap Ph is. Get that reading and we can go from there.

 

[Rivercats]

Also meant to add that with fish in the tank you need to be doing a WC to keep your ammonia and nitrite readings no higher than .25. You nitrite right now is way too high and needs to be gotten down immediately. Do a 50% WC, wait a couple hours and do another until you get your level way down. This also may raise your Ph.

 

[phishfriend]

Also meant to add that with fish in the tank you need to be doing a WC to keep your ammonia and nitrite readings no higher than .25. You nitrite right now is way too high and needs to be gotten down immediately. Do a 50% WC, wait a couple hours and do another until you get your level way down. This also may raise your Ph.

That was why I didn't comment on the PH reading. I figure it would be quickly corrected by the water changes. But your right. It probably started the downhill

 

[Shon]

Phishfriend thank you for the advice I'm a little more calmed now. I have a few questions next time I do need to change my filter should I rinse the new one in old tank water as well or undertap. I couldn't use my old filter because it broke and was of a different brand and type.

When you say to do a 50% change back to back till my ammonia level is round .25/.50. Do you mean change 50% wait and hour or two and do another one and repeat as needed till levels are lower? This won't stress my fish. Once the levels are where I want them what % would you suggest changing everyday or every other day?

I do currently have the air pump and air stone from my 10gal. I know its not big enough but it does help till I can afford a better one than one from Walmart thank you again very much.

 

[Rivercats]

Yes do 50% WC wait a couple hours and do another. Hopefully 2 WC's will bring levels down but if not do a 3rd or even a 4th. Nitrite is really deadly to fish and is even more toxic in low ph (acid) water. IMO it's better to stress the fish alittle (which it shouldn't) than posion them with nitrites. After levels are fine just monitor your ammonia/nitrite/nitrates and do WC's when levels rise above .25. Also keep an eye on your ph as anything lower than 6.5 can begin to stall your cycle.

 

[Rivercats]

Rinse your filter pad in old tank water as tap water will kill any BB that has colonized on it and set your cycle back.

 

[Shon]

Right now your BB cycling is stalled as your Ph is only 6. What is your taps Ph reading after you take a cup of water and let it sit with either an airstone running in it or stirring it over 24 hours, then do your Ph test. This will give you a true Ph reading for your tap water. Post your results to see what steps need to be taken. For right now add 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda dissovled in a cup of tank water to help boost your Ph by adding some buffers in. Do you have a Kh and Gh test kit? You also may have to add some Crushed Coral to your filter or in a media bag under your outflow depending on what your tap Ph is. Get that reading and we can go from there.

Does the API master kit not test Kh or Gh? Sorry I am new to this just started in January. I do not use tap water do to extremely high levels even after sitting for a week or two. I buy RODI water from my lfs and its starting to bust my bawls <(its a water company) lol. I live in an apartment on the third floor and have no way of using a rodi filter here so I just have to buy it. Also thank you rivercats for the advice.

 

[phishfriend]

Does the API master kit not test Kh or Gh? Sorry I am new to this just started in January. I do not use tap water do to extremely high levels even after sitting for a week or two. I buy RODI water from my lfs and its starting to bust my bawls <(its a water company) lol. I live in an apartment on the third floor and have no way of using a rodi filter here so I just have to buy it. Also thank you rivercats for the advice.

Wow! What are your lvl's on your tap water??

I hate to advise to change that much water with your water issue but..wow. Also, when I said back to back. Do 1st WC wait an hour do 2nd

 

[Rivercats]

That explains your low Ph as RO water has 0 Gh and Kh, with low Ph. You need to get some seachem Equalibrium or a similar product to add minerals back into your RO water before adding to the tank.

 

[Rivercats]

You could dose Prime daily for a few days to get the nitrite converted to a non-toxic form but it has to be done daily as it only lasts for 24 hours.

 

[Shon]

I'm going to sit water out at my moms tonight and test it tomorrow to see if them levels are lower. I bought some API Ph up and down last night but was considering taking it back after reading reviews last night and today. I do use API stress zyme and stress coat I also have amquel plus. I only have been using the API products thus far no amquel. I am going to buy a Kh and Gh test kit tonight is the API mini one ok it does 100x test.

Thank you both extremely I'm sorry if I'm pestering the heck out of you. I'll admit I'm pretty ignorant I should of done my research first.

 

[phishfriend]

Your not pestering anybody. Don't get down about it either. Everyone has hiccups in this hobby. I know its a bit frustrating now but It will make you a better fish keeper in the long run.

 

[Shon]

Your not pestering anybody. Don't get down about it either. Everyone has hiccups in this hobby. I know its a bit frustrating now but It will make you a better fish keeper in the long run.

Thank you I was feeling down but I am much more confinement now thanks to the help here.

Is there a way to test for chlorine and chloramine in my water? And is the API products ok or is there a better product. Any suggestions on Ph up and Ph down.

 

[phishfriend]

Thank you I was feeling down but I am much more confinement now thanks to the help here.

Is there a way to test for chlorine and chloramine in my water? And is the API products ok or is there a better product. Any suggestions on Ph up and Ph down.

API Product are OK. I tend to lean to Seachem products. A lot of people on the site use their "Prime" for Dechlorinator. I will say that as rule of thumb, try to avoid putting any chemical in your tank. Most do more harm then good. Also research any before hand. Most of times there is a natural solution available.
Perfect example is your low PH. As Rivercats mentioned crushed coral raises PH naturally. So, you should buy a bag. same stuff used in salt tanks as a substrate. (not live sand) fill a mesh bag with about quarter cup and if you have room in your filter put it there. It will take a day or two. If you don't see a result in that time add for coral. keep doing this until you get the PH where you want it. You will need to replace it every few months but the same amount should work.

 

[Rivercats]

I'm going to sit water out at my moms tonight and test it tomorrow to see if them levels are lower. I bought some API Ph up and down last night but was considering taking it back after reading reviews last night and today. I do use API stress zyme and stress coat I also have amquel plus. I only have been using the API products thus far no amquel. I am going to buy a Kh and Gh test kit tonight is the API mini one ok it does 100x test.

Thank you both extremely I'm sorry if I'm pestering the heck out of you. I'll admit I'm pretty ignorant I should of done my research first.

Make sure the water gets stirred every so often to help gas it off. That's what you want, to measure your taps Ph after it's gassed off 24 hours. I would return the PH up and down as they are temporary fixes at best.

 

[Rivercats]

I use the API Kh and Gh test kit. There is a test in the box for each one.

 

[Shon]

I'm going now to get the API Kh and Gh test kit. I set out a gallon of tap water treated with AmQuel Plus and I also done this with a gallon of RODI I will test both them when I get back also one gallon of just rodi water along with tank. Ill post my results as soon as I get them.

 

[Shon]

Is the crushed coral safe for my freshwater tank?