Starting a 40g C02 tank HELP

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Okay, and what do you think of a t5 HO with 4 tubes. I’m thinking of converting my 75 gallon tank instead. So I’m gonna need the strong light.



4 bulbs is perfect for a higher light 75 gallon tank running CO2.

I will suggest 2 x 6500k (or 6700k) bulbs run with 2 x ZooMed FloraSun bulbs (or other pink flora style bulbs) to start.

From there, you can play with bulb combos. 1 x deep red with 1 x deep blue with 1 x 6700k and 1 x FloraSun for example would likely be a nice combo.

Bulbs to have on hand:

2 x 6700k
2 x FloraSun
1 x deep red
1 x blue
1 by 2700k / 3000k or so
1 x 10,000k

This way you can really adjust the spectrum to your liking.

But, running 2 x 6700k and 2 x FloraSun is a perfect starting point that should look nice.
 
Alright thanks a lot, also for my c02 setup I need to know how bubble counting works and how many bubbles per sec/min. I know that I need to start out very slow and turn it up very little over time until I find out what works best but what’s the average bubble count
 
That is a good article, minus the pH / kH / CO2 chart. Is a ballpark at best way to look at CO2, is assumes only carbonates are affecting kH / pH and that is not the case in our tanks.

Use the pH drop with a drop checker for a little better way to track your tanks CO2 levels, and what works best.

Bubble counters on anything large than a 20 gallon tank are virtually useless, a 75 gallon would be a constant stream of bubbles, impossible to count.

A Dwyer’s RMA flow meter would work much better.

151-SSV would be the model that should work well on a 75 gallon.

If I were to but a number on it, 10 bubbles per second to start might get you there... My 25 gallon ran 4.75 bubbles per second with crude math so.... 1.2 drop in pH, just for reference sake.
 
Ok I’m gonna sounds like a noob here and that’s cause I am, please explain PH drop
 
And who thinks an RO system would be a good investment for long term if I’m going to be using it for my 75 Gallon
 
And who thinks an RO system would be a good investment for long term if I’m going to be using it for my 75 Gallon



Depends on your source water. Those amazing tanks you see online almost all use RO and target specific water parameters so... I would say yes if the budget allows it.

But, depends really on your source water, do you know the degassed pH, the kH and the gH of your tap water?
 
I do not know, but I’ll be finding all this out soon, I just ordered test kits on amazon just now. Setting this up is going to be a very long process. Wow
 
I do not know, but I’ll be finding all this out soon, I just ordered test kits on amazon just now. Setting this up is going to be a very long process. Wow



It’s not too bad... Here are the essentials:


Test Kits:

API Liquid kH test
API Liquid gH test
$10 pH pen with calibration fluid from Amazon (API pH test will work but... huge pain in the rear)

CO2:

Regulator with solenoid
CO2 canister (5 lb - 10 lb or larger would be best)
Tubing
Bubble counter (although it will be a constant uncountable stream of bubbles, so a Dwyer RMA-152-SSV flow meter would be much better)
Diffuser / Reactor
Digital wall outlet timer (the mechanical ones are perfectly fine, but over time they are kind of noisy)

Optional:

Drop checker (although this one is highly recommended for a quick visual on CO2 levels, pH drop is more accurate and easy if you have a calibrated pH pen)
PH controller (this is the best option for ensuring CO2 is always at your set pH drop point, comes at a higher price though)
Air pump with tubing and air stone (if you are really pushing CO2 levels it’s wise to run an air stone at night for good gas exchange)

That is everything you need. It might seem like a lot but its fairly straight forward.

Start slow and work your way up, yes. Watch fish closely and adjust as needed.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 
Pretty sure that was in the article that Autumnsky posted, but yes dually notes. I’m also studying this article at the moment it’s very helpful https://buceplant.com/blogs/news/understanding-water-parameters-in-your-planted-tank



That article is pretty good too yes.

Only comments I have are the kH recommendation and the pH recommendation, along with the gH / kH booster Chris refers to.

1.0 degrees of kH is enough to void pH swings, especially if you are performing regular water changes. Just note that if using RO to ensure you are dosing to reach the exact same kH / gH every time.

www.rotalabutterfly.com has a nutrient calculator that is super helpful in determining how much to dose.

His value of 6.5-7.5 is fine, but CO2 will drive ph down... you can get very low, into the mid 5’s just fine without any issue. CO2 pH drop is kind of “fake” because it’s not affecting TDS or mineral / osmotic pressures, it form a very weak acid called carboxylic acid which acidifies the water, again, this is not harmful and seeing a pH in the mid 5 range is common on RO / CO2 tanks.

Last thing, use CaSO4 (Gypsum) and MgSO4 (Epsom Salt) for gH and KHCO3 for kH. All can be found on amazon, check a local drug store for plain, no additives non-scented Epsom salt...

This is WAY cheaper than Salty Shrimp, and its pure... no additives like massive amounts of potassium and Iron in the mix.

30ppm Ca
10ppm Mg
1.0 degrees of kH

These are a good starting point for both fish and plant health.

Amazon sells $10-$20 jewelry scales, grab one with a calibration weight and with accuracy to 0.001 grams. This makes it super consistent for dosing gH and kH and dry fertilizers. Way more accurate than using teaspoons / tablespoons.

Weekly 50% + water changes are a good starting point, but, you can avoid this with a leaner fertilizer dosing schedule such as PPS-Pro, which doesn’t require large water changes.

Evaporation top-offs use 100% RO with no additives, simply replacing water, not the minerals.

Glad to see you are reading up and preparing before... that’s a quality that can’t be bought
 
Ok so aside from all this, let’s say I get my water perfected, I would have to do this before I add plants right? Because what’s the point of having my plants all die If my water isn’t right. I’d have to have it cycled for 3 weeks obviously while getting the water parameters up to par then drain it when I’m happy with it and add all my plants which will be like $400 in plants, then fill it back up and dose it. Or what
 
Ok so aside from all this, let’s say I get my water perfected, I would have to do this before I add plants right? Because what’s the point of having my plants all die If my water isn’t right. I’d have to have it cycled for 3 weeks obviously while getting the water parameters up to par then drain it when I’m happy with it and add all my plants which will be like $400 in plants, then fill it back up and dose it. Or what



Plants will take a week or two to settle in anyway, so you have some lean way. If you want you can get everything set up first and levelled out prior to introducing plants, but it’s not needed.

For my next tank, I’m planning on the following:

Have my hardware in place and ready, substrate in the tank, and enough pure RO water ready to fill the tank. (Or tap water, or tap water / RO mix, doesn’t matter).

I’ll then measure out how much water I add to the tank, so I know exactly how much volume my tank holds, I’ll prime and start the filters, and then top the tank off to its final level with again, a measured volume of water. I now know what my water volume is exactly.

I’ll then add my CaSO4, MgSO4 and KHCO3 to yield me my starting base levels, probably that 30ppm Ca, 10ppm Mg and 1.0 degrees of kH (or if there is tap water involved, how much extra minerals it takes to yield whatever levels I’m after) I’ll use the Rotala butterfly website calculator for this. I’ll wait over night, let the tank get up to temp, and manually measure gH, kH and pH to confirm my numbers.

Because there isn’t any livestock, nor is there any bacteria for the cycle in the tank, I can crank my CO2 on. Trial and error over a couple days will determine how much CO2 to add to get that 1.0 drop within 2 hours of the CO2 coming on. I’m only in 3-4 days at this point.

Next day will be plants and fertilizer added, CO2 should be close, and I can start to fine tune it to get me a 1.2 drop or so, or higher because there is no livestock in the tank yet.

Next I will measure out how much water is needed for whatever percentage of a water change I’ll need for my weekly water change. I’ll siphon this amount out of the tank, and place a small piece of tape on the least visible back corner of the tank, I now have a reference point to remove the exact same amount of water, every single water change.

I add the new water that is already pre-measured out, and pre-dosed with my minerals to the exact same base levels I started out with. This ensures consistency.

Now that I’ve done all this once, measured and recorded all my values, I simply repeat it with every water change, no measuring water volumes, just remove and replace the exact same amount of water from my reference mark, with the exact same amounts of each mineral pre-dissolved into the incoming water.

1 week of setup and you’re all good, planted, and awaiting the tank to cycle.

Now, this is of course, a lot of work off the start, and a lot more in depth than the average aquarist, but the results are worth it, and once you’ve done the work once, it’s simple and easy to repeat the exact same thing every week.



Again, pre-measure everything once, now you have accurate numbers to go by.

Remove and replace the exact same amount of water with each water change (dosed with the exact same amount of each compound).

Make adjustments as necessary if need be.
 
Well that gives me a pretty simple way to go about doing it, but how do you measure the amount of water taken out for a water change? And then how would you figure out the amount of CaS04, KHC03, MgS04, and minerals to use in said amount of water.
 
Well that gives me a pretty simple way to go about doing it, but how do you measure the amount of water taken out for a water change? And then how would you figure out the amount of CaS04, KHC03, MgS04, and minerals to use in said amount of water.

Measure it however you want.

I would take a 5 gallon pail, fill it using a large measuring cup and mark the 5 gallon level when you reach it, now you have a near perfect 5 gallon reference mark, and fill to that level, dump, repeat until you reach whatever percentage of a water change you are after.

Mark the tank corner with tape / marker / whatever will stay put, and you never have to measure out anything again.

Get a brute trash can / heavy duty storage tote to use as a mixing container for your minerals.

Again, use the measuring cup / 5 gallon pail / tape / marker method to make a reference point in the mixing container (or see my example below for a way to do it by saving water, using your first water change's water as the measured amount to give you a reference point in your mixing container) Now you can add fresh water to your mixing container up to the reference point which will exactly = your water change amount removed from the tank.

Use the rotalabutterfly calculator to determine how much of each compound to add into your mixing container to yield your desired nutrient / kH level.

Once you do it once, it will only take 5 minutes. A small powerhead or pump is useful uin mixing up the dry ingredients into your mixing container full of water, and for transferring that water up into your tank.

It doesn't have to be fancy, keep the mixing container in a closet or tucked away some where, pull it out on water change day, fill it up with RO water or RO / Tap mix to your reference mark, add your ingredients, and use a spare heater if you want it to match your tank water temp more closely. Let it mix / heat up for an hour and it's ready.

Siphon out the tank to your reference mark, and then transfer the water from the mixing container into the tank.


FOR EXAMPLE:

75 gallon tank, with 65 gallons of actual water volume (or whatever your number works out to be) that you measured upon initial fill up using the measuring cup / 5 gallon pail / reference mark method, with 50% water changes:

65 / 2 = 32.5 gallons of water to be changed.

Siphon out 32.5 gallons using the 5 gallon pail. Remove exactly 5 gallons at a time until you reach 6 pails (30 gallons) then remove 2.5 gallons using the measuring cup (I recommend a large measuring cup, it should be accurate enough for our needs, and you're not sitting there removing 1 cup at a time).

Dump each bucket with exactly 5 gallons of tankwater into your mixing container, preferably near the drain. Once you've removed 6 x 5 gallons, and 1 x 2.5 gallons from the tank and added it to the mixing container, place a reference mark wherever it best fits and will stay and is visible to you when filling. That reference mark represents exactly 32.5 gallons. Dump the tank water down the drain.

Now the tank is exactly at 50% capacity, place your reference mark on the outside of the least visible back corner of the tank. That mark represents exactly 32.5 gallons removed.

Now you have reference marks on both the tank level @ 50% removed, and the mixing container at exactly 32.5 gallons.

You can then punch that into rotalabutterfly, or use this:

30ppm Ca = 0.488 grams CaSO4.2H2O (Gypsum) per 1 gallon
10ppm Mg = 0.384 grams MgSO4.7H2O (Epsom Salt) per 1 gallon
1.0 Degrees kH = 0.135 grams KHCO3 (Potassium Bicarbonate) per 1 gallon

Multiply these numbers by your amount of measured gallons upon initial fill, and then the amount of gallons per water change (In my example it would be 65 gallons and 32.5 gallons).

You want these pre-mixed into your new water prior to adding it to the tank, this will ensure no shock to livestock during the water change (mineral contents will match).

You can initially fill the tank to measure out how much actual water volume you have, and then add these into the tank. This will ensure accuracy and there is no livestock to worry about at that time.
 
Perfect, that is what I needed. I was using the Rotalabutterfly calculator last night and it’s perfect and I used your parameters.
 
Perfect, that is what I needed. I was using the Rotalabutterfly calculator last night and it’s perfect and I used your parameters.

Start up a journal / build thread so we can follow along, and you can track things / ask questions as the tank gets set up.

Remember, everything I've been saying is for the above average planted tanker who really wants to get in close with their tank, you don't have to be all in like I have been describing, but again, the results are well worth the time invested to start off on the right foot.

Too many time people are half way in, half invested, and they have a few short comings and then lose motivation, and the tank suffers.

Starting off right reduces the risk of losing motivation.
 
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