WARNING re AP liquid test kit: Don't make this mistake

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bosk1

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
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Location
Sacramento, CA
When coming to the end of my cycle, I made a huge mistake, as some of you know. I think I understand it, so I will post in hopes that someone else can benefit from this knowledge.

My fishless cycle took quite a while, but my ammonia eventually began to fall to the point where I could add 2-4 ppm, and it would be gone in 24 hours. Nitrites took a while longer, but I saw them eventually start to fall. The interesting thing is, they seemed to fall to zero. All during the process, I kept adding ammonia as I was supposed to, because I had to keep the first set of bacteria well fed and alive. Apparently, the nitrites were still climbing. The test kit says to look at the result after five minutes. Well, with mine, after five minutes, it was powder blue--the zero color. BUT (and here's where I made the mistake), when I first added the reagent, it would turn bright magenta immediately, and then fade to the powder blue over the course of the five minute waiting period. What I have deduced from the experience is that my nitrites were VERY high to the point they were off the scale. Apparently, the reagent in the test kit will not function properly if the nitrites are so high, and may give a false reading. (I am not saying the test kit is defective here--it does what it is designed to do, but it appears that it is possible for levels to be so high as to overload its capacity) I have since learned that, even though it is the reading after five minutes and not the initial reading that counts, the initial color should be blue. If it is bright magenta or purple and then fades, there are most likely nitrites present in high levels, no matter what the kit reads after five minutes. A wise member of this board very appropriately pointed out to me that the initial magenta color should have been a big red flag. In hindsight, I have to agree that he is absolutely correct. It was a warning sign, but was one that I missed. Even though I thought my tank was cycled because it looked like my nitrites and spiked and then fallen, I should have taken a few extra days just to be certain. I did not really understand at the time, but thankfully am on track right now.

To remedy the problem, I conducted a 50-60% pwc, and then another one the same evening a few hours later before bed. Then another first thing in the morning. Then another when I got home from work, followed by introducing a 1 oz. pack of Bio-Spira. (My tank warranted 2 oz. based on size, but because I was already so far into the cycle, I thought I would try 1 oz. first, and then get another if needed) This did the trick. By the morning after I added the Bio-Spira, my parameters have been almost perfect (ph is a little high, but that's my local water supply; all nitrogen-cycle parameters were ideal). Conditions have been ideal for the last few days with no sign of nitrites. Thank goodness I only lost one clown loach. It could have been a lot worse. But even that one fish didn't have to die if I had understood the warning signs.

Perhaps all of the above is obvious, but again, I post this in case anyone else should ever run into this situation in the future so that they will not make the same mistake.
 
I'm glad you got it all figured out. In previous posts when you mentioned the meganta color showing first I thought, hmmm....maybe he has a different test kit than I do for the AP Nitrite kit. :) It makes sense that if the level is so high that it turns the blue coloration after the meganta. Good observation and I'm glad that you brought it to everyones attention. :D
 
That is strange, but I've never had nitrites over 2.5ppm when cycling...nor do I have a good way to nitrify a bucket of water to duplicate your theory.

I imagine in your case, you'd have needed a LaMotte Nitrogen test kit to accurately test your wicked high nitrites.
 
Well, I dunno. I can't think of any reason for the test to reutrn to a zero state. You can view the complete page at http://home.comcast.net/~tomstank/tomstank_files/page0018.htm
Here is a summary of the reaction:

Nitrite Testing: Diazotization Method

Nitrite ions react with sulfanilic acid to from an intermediate diazonium salt. This reacts with chromotropic acid to produce a red-orange complex directly proportional to the amount of nitrite present.

Another method uses the same sulfanilic acid, but instead of chromotropic acid the diazonium salt reacts with 1-naphthylamine sulfonic acid to form a different red-colored solution. This may be what is in the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals kit? Since the Nitrate test has a common pathway with the nitrite test, they may have chosen the second indicator to avoid confusion? (see Nitrate testing below)

Interferences: (not a complete list, where interference levels are given they are for the Hach Co test, and might not appy to Aquarium Pharmaceuticals)

Very high levels of nitrate (>100 ppm) since some of the abundant nitrate will convert to nitrite and register on the test. Ferric Ions, Ferrous Ions, Lead Ions, Mercurous Ions, Cupric ions.

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals does not list the ingredients to the nitrite test on the bottle or the instruction sheet, but sulfanilic acid is listed on the tests MSDS sheet, so I believe they are the same.
 
I dunno, Tom. That's the only explanation I can come up with, given that two separate kits did the exact same thing, and that I didn't start to get high readings until after a 50% pwc. (and my tap water does not register any nitrites when tested) Either super-high nitrites cause it to give a false reading, or there is something else in my water that does.

In any case, just to repeat: I am not knocking this test kit at all. I just wanted to post this in case anyone else has a similar situation arise so that they can recognize the warning signs and not have to go through the stress me and my fish went through.
 
Yes, it is strange. I have left low level nitrite test tubes sitting for 15 to 30 minutes without seeing them fade back to zero, but I never had a nitrite level over 0.5. I would have thought that the Hach company would have warned about high nitrite levels allowing the test to react further in some way to alter the results, but then again there is no way of knowing exactly how the AP test compares to the Hach test either. Yet another test kit mystery.

It would be interesting to find out if it is repeatable, or if it has happened to anyone else. I would think that some of the other fishless cyclers would have had some pretty high nitrites too. Any idea or guess how high your nitrites were? Can you estimate by how much water you changed before you got a reliable reading? For example, two 50% water changes would leave you with about 0.25 the original level (0.5 times 0.5). so a reading of 5 after two 50% changes would mean you had a level in the neighborhood of 20 before the water changes.
 
I will look at my tank log when I get home so I can post more accurately, but here are some things I can say:
Coincidentally, it seemed that 1 cap of pure ammonia was the approximate equivalent of 1 ppm of ammonia in my tank. After my ammonia spiked, I had to keep feeding ammonia, but it was still quite some time until my nitrites spiked and began declining. I believe I added about 30 or so caps of ammonia throughout the process. If not much of that was converted from nitrite to nitrate, it is quite possible my nitrites were about that high. Also, thoughout the process, after my nitrites got above 2, it became difficult to get an accurate reading. It never seemed to reach the color for 5, but was darker than the color for 2. So I never really knew where I was, and just marked it down in my tank log as "2+" figuring "it really doesn't matter because toxic is toxic, and I can't add fish until it's zero..." When all this happened on Sunday night, I noticed a reading of .25 (just like my previous zero readings, it got dark first, and then lowered over 5 minutes), so I did a 50% water change and waited about 1/2 hour for the water to circulate. I tested the water again, and got that "2+" reading I mentioned. As a result, I did another immediate 60% change. In the morning, I tested and was still at that "2+." Did another 60% change. Tested when I came home from work and it looked more like a true "2," but possibly still higher. Did another 50% and added 1 oz. of Bio-Spira. In the morning, I was at true 0, and have stayed there since.
 
Interesting. Well, its safe to assume it was not more than 30, probably a bit less if you had some nitrate. You can approximate by adding up how much ammonia went in, subtract how much nitrate you had. These are only approximates because the color charts are not as accurate as spectrometry, so interpretation of color charts can be quantitatively off significantly. But for the practice of our hobby, they suffice.

This is one reason to cut back on the ammonia dose when nitrite formation starts, since the ammonia eaters don't need 1ppm per day to thrive, and adding a lot just gives you a larger nitrite hill to clmb over.

Glad things are getting back to nominal.
 
Good points there. The nitrites were probably off the charts, so who knows what was happening there. The test kits work great when everything is in it's range, but when you get levels way above that, I've never tried it and don't know how the tests react. But anyways, good job with the cycle, and now you and the fish can take the long awaited break and relax and enjoy. :)
 
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