Who uses Quarantine Tanks?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

venymae

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Dec 31, 2013
Messages
1,082
Location
Kansas, USA
So the question came up about how many people here use a quarantine tank? If you don't what do you do to prevent new disease from entering your aquarium with new fish?
 
Personally I do not have a separate tank. I try to pick healthy looking fish and minimize my chance of bringing disease by not adding the bag water.
 
I use them for ALL new FW arrivals. Minimum of 5-6 weeks. Depending on the # of fish I get in it's either 2 in a 20g, 4 in a 40b, or 5-6 in a 55. With that, they EACH have their own set of everything (except test vials) including a separate room. As well, they get daily WC's and a weekly 100% WC.
 
Another good point to add would be if people do have QT, do they keep them set up all the time or have them temporary? And if they set up all the time, how are the tanks kept running? Is there always some amount of fish in there to keep the tank cycled? I would assume if that were the case they would likely be cheaper, hardier fish.

Kind of curious about the above questions as sometime later this year I want to set up a QT tank and am trying to decide if it makes sense to leave it running all the time or not.
 
Mine is set up year around, and when I need to qt a fish a just grab a sponge filter from another tank.
 
I have a 10g QT which will be set up all the time always with at least 2 or so fish to keep the cycle going. I keep the lights off most of the time and feed light so that the maintenance is minimal as no algae grows. I just need to do PWCs.

I read up on QTs a lot a couple months ago as I was deciding whether to have one or not. A lot of people swear by having one as the best way to limit risk to your existing fish.

Then there are those who say they think a QT is NOT a good idea as it stresses out the fish even more (after transportation etc...) and they are therefore more likely to get sick.

I decided that as long as you have a good QT (cycled, good water etc...) then it's the best way to go as why risk your entire tank by introducing new fish without observing them for a few weeks first. As long as you have a good stable QT tank then there shouldn't be extra stress on the new fish.
 
I'm not for QT'ing new arrivals as I am one of those who thinks it is more stressful for the fish. Especially when coming from a tank full of mates to a bare bottom dark lonely tank with minimum decor only to be moved again.
It might just be my QT but it is fairly depressing and just depresses the immune system further. I guess if the fish are healthy they would handle a QT tank without any problems. It's a tough one.

Like the op I try to pick the best looking fish and have a QT for IF fish become sick. I will isolate them and treat mainly due to cost.

The chances are that once fish acclimatise to your clean water they are much more likely to become free of disease. Parasites are different but a quick salt dip usually sort those out.
 
I had a QT but it's now my shrimp tank, since I only have one fish and won't be adding anymore i don't need it.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Aquarium Advice mobile app
 
10 gallon QT with a small layer of gravel and plastic plants and decoration for hiding spots that are easy to sterilize. I keep new fish for 4 weeks minimum. I've had Ich appear after 10 days, and had a mass die off for unknown reasons. In both cases I was glad I didn't introduce the new arrivals to my display tanks.
My eyesight isn't so good that I can see microscopic parasites and bacterium, nor do I believe that fish have the emotional capacity to be "depressed", so I advocate quarantining new fish and visibly sick fish.
 
10 gallon QT with a small layer of gravel and plastic plants and decoration for hiding spots that are easy to sterilize. I keep new fish for 4 weeks minimum. I've had Ich appear after 10 days, and had a mass die off for unknown reasons. In both cases I was glad I didn't introduce the new arrivals to my display tanks.
My eyesight isn't so good that I can see microscopic parasites and bacterium, nor do I believe that fish have the emotional capacity to be "depressed", so I advocate quarantining new fish and visibly sick fish.


Depressed may have been the wrong choice of word. I don't think API or tetra will do drugs for depression. Fish do have the ability to sense danger. The have Instincts. They show obvious behavioural signs as well as physical signs that give us clues as to when a fish feels unwell injured or threatened.

I don't believe fish become ill if they are happy (sorry wrong choice of word) free from stress. It is very difficult to keep a fish free from stress in an enclosed glass case. So many internal and external factors that cause fish to become unwell and allow opportunistic disease to strike.

I just prefer to get them in to a clean stable environment, with adequate water chemistry and adequate tank mates as soon as possible.

I'm not suggesting that people don't quarantine. Just that I don't and those are my reasons.
 
Curious, common timing is 1 month or longer. Why so long? What diseases only show up after 3+ weeks? ( I'm learning and will be ordering fish soon)
 
Sometimes things like ich don't appear until after you carefully selected the fish and put them into your display tank, which is why after a few bad experiences I now use a QT. They're not expensive to set up but sometimes the fish we're trying to protect are.
 
I'm not for QT'ing new arrivals as I am one of those who thinks it is more stressful for the fish. Especially when coming from a tank full of mates to a bare bottom dark lonely tank with minimum decor only to be moved again.
It might just be my QT but it is fairly depressing and just depresses the immune system further. I guess if the fish are healthy they would handle a QT tank without any problems. It's a tough one.

Like the op I try to pick the best looking fish and have a QT for IF fish become sick. I will isolate them and treat mainly due to cost.

The chances are that once fish acclimatise to your clean water they are much more likely to become free of disease. Parasites are different but a quick salt dip usually sort those out.

I think you're right. If your QT is not great, it's questionable if it's a good idea. I guess the key is that a GOOD QT is what's needed. Fully cycled, same amount of plants etc....as the main tank.
 
I have 5 tanks and I've introduced many new fish and I've never used a qt. I've never had a fish die. (Other than natural cases)
 
I live in a big city and I've yet to find a LFS that I didn't see sick fish. Even in the aquarium only stores, I either see dead fish or fish missing their top and or side fins. I'm real leery of LFS's. ( due to personal constraints, I can only travel near my house once a week, so there may be some...)

To me that's the crux of QT or not. If I bought from a good seller, I might only QT over a long acclimation like 2days. But, if I bought online or from any of the nearby LFS, I would definitely QT. That why I'm grateful to the OP for this post. I'm learning the concensus of opinion for QT time lengths and other things.
 
I don't. I didn't even know you were supposed to until I started reading the forums on planted tanks. I haven't had any problems until this past round when my otos got ick.

One day I hope to have a 20g long that's primarily a planted tank, but occasionally serves as QT/HT.
 
I think you're right. If your QT is not great, it's questionable if it's a good idea. I guess the key is that a GOOD QT is what's needed. Fully cycled, same amount of plants etc....as the main tank.


If your QT isn't great, then IMO it's not a QT. God QT is easy as long as you follow good husbandry. Fully cycled yes. Same plants, decos, etc, NO WAY !! A QT should be stripped bare of anything. That's how you can determine what may cause problems.

Example, if you have plants in a QT, and your fish gets sick or you notice something wrong, should you treat the the tank, you can only treat for specific things in order to accommodate the plants. IMO, that's a bad idea because you can't focus SOLELY on the fish. Too many parameters involved there. Focus on one thing only and simplify the process before adding a contingency plan to the mix.

Just my own personal OPINION AND ADVICE !!!!
 
Back
Top Bottom