Carl's 180 reef build

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Let's hope!!

So tomorrow morning I'm going to get 2x6 and a couple 4x4s to finish off the base cabinet skeleton and start the canopy skeleton. As of the moment I don't have a garage so I have to use a friend of mines down the road or else the base would be done already.

I'll take some pics of the progress and post em up. Any thoughts yet to a transfer method?
 
Reefnoob84 said:
Let's hope!!

So tomorrow morning I'm going to get 2x6 and a couple 4x4s to finish off the base cabinet skeleton and start the canopy skeleton. As of the moment I don't have a garage so I have to use a friend of mines down the road or else the base would be done already.

I'll take some pics of the progress and post em up. Any thoughts yet to a transfer method?

I used 3 20g Rubbermaid containers. Filled each up with about 15g then filled 2 up with rock and last one with coral and fish. I put the sand in trash bags. I disposed of the rest of the water and picked up the tank and stand with a couple friends.
 
I would not put silicone over the old caulk. That will not hold. If you want to reseal it, you'll need to strip the inside clean.
I wouldn't even use a 10 year old tank as a display, that might be in my house for another 10 years, without resealing it.
If you take your time and do it right, it will not leak.

As for the transfer, I would cycle the new rock in a bin(s) with a heater and power head, and then do the swap all at once- break down the 75 into rubbermaid bins, and then swap out the tanks, re-aquascape, then add livestock.
I would thoroughly rinse the sand bed before adding it.
 
Got the stand Skeleton built. Finish height of it is 41" or 3 foot 5 inches.
 
Thanks!

We decided were going to paint the cabinetry white since a lot of my finishing material can come preprimed in white.

If you look at the top I used 2x6 on the outer frame and 2x4 on the inside. I recessed the 2x4 frame and web so I could use 1/2" plywood to help disperse the weight better and it helped square the top as well. ( it was a 1/16 off corner to corner) the top and sides will be covered in primed mdf 1/2". Crown will surround the top and a standard 1x5 around the bottom. So the base is 8'3" x 2'. With the crown and top on the area will grow to 8'7-8" x 2'3.5-4". I will be centering tank side to side and it will be pushed to the back leaving a 2.5-3" ledge in front of the tank.

I'm planning on sanding the plastic trim thats on the tank and painting it white as well. I think the fake wood is lame.

I forgot to take pics of the tank after the pressure wash. A couple small areas have to get scraped by a blade. 200 degree water at 2300 psi couldn't free it all off the overflows. I guess when I strip them I'll let them soak in straight vinegar for atleast 24 hours.
 
Mdf is known to grow mold and snap under moist conditions so it's dangerous to use on a stand. And that's because it absorbs moisture and it will weaken over time.
 
Also if anyone wants to know I used 4x4s to use as legs. Since I had 2x4 on the inside I was able to carry load across the entire 4x4 by notching the top of it. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Also everything is held together by 3" zinc plated construction screws. Each post has 8 of them in the bottom pocket screwed in. Almost all of it is glued together(except where it might need to be taken apart) this stand will hold upwards of 4500 lbs!
 
Ibrahim said:
Mdf is known to grow mold and snap under moist conditions so it's dangerous to use on a stand. And that's because it absorbs moisture and it will weaken over time.

Look at the frame. The mdf will in no way be any type of support. Its cost effective and very easy to work with.

We changed direction on sump location and r keeping it where it is so mold will not be a problem. I'm a mold inspector and I have kids so I know what to look for. Plus mold does not grow off synthetic things, only dirt or dust that is on it once it gets wet and stays moist for 48 hrs.

That's why when u have a water damage and you. Call a company they want to put 3-4 dehus in. You as a homeowner seeing the cost freak out but if u dry up a finished basement in under 48hrs you'll save a lot and have very little chance of mold
 
I'm not trying to be rude by any means. The point I was tryin to make was the mdf is purely cosmetic.
 
4500 pounds.. that stand could hold 10000 pounds, lol. Very nice build. Did you use a level? Also how did you attach the 2x4's to the 4x4's? Notched with one of them 3" zinc plated screws through the back?
 
scottayy said:
4500 pounds.. that stand could hold 10000 pounds, lol. Very nice build. Did you use a level? Also how did you attach the 2x4's to the 4x4's? Notched with one of them 3" zinc plated screws through the back?

I went through the front and back actually. When you see the pics I post tomorrow you'll see more clearly. No level. No level needed. If you know what your building and are good at it you know that if you keep the same dimension you'll be flat. Now on the other hand I know my floor isn't level front to back. I have to jack up the floor to correct it. I'll save that for later. what I'm planning is a perfect square flat and straight stand. I'll correct the floor which should be done anyways. Btw it's only 1/4" over 3 ft but the joists are single 2x8s and will be reinforced on every corner and in the field of the footprint of the tank.
 
Reefnoob84 said:
I'm not trying to be rude by any means. The point I was tryin to make was the mdf is purely cosmetic.

I thought it was near your sump so evaporation from the sump would cause mold to grow in the stand but now I know it's not so thanks for clearing that up. Also MDF holds moisture well so it won't dry up in 48hrs and constant evap would keep it moist if the sump was under the tank. People also use MDF in canopies and see the problem months later. Don't fret, you weren't rude at all.
 
I went through the front and back actually. When you see the pics I post tomorrow you'll see more clearly. No level. No level needed. If you know what your building and are good at it you know that if you keep the same dimension you'll be flat. Now on the other hand I know my floor isn't level front to back. I have to jack up the floor to correct it. I'll save that for later. what I'm planning is a perfect square flat and straight stand. I'll correct the floor which should be done anyways. Btw it's only 1/4" over 3 ft but the joists are single 2x8s and will be reinforced on every corner and in the field of the footprint of the tank.

Nice. I need a level when I build. I only have a circular saw, which creates uneven cuts. When resting boards on top (or aligning them) things get off by 16ths of an inch. Compounded, I end up with a quarter inch unlevel stand that I'm not comfortable setting a big tank on. I will invest in a table saw at some point in the future.
 
scottayy said:
Nice. I need a level when I build. I only have a circular saw, which creates uneven cuts. When resting boards on top (or aligning them) things get off by 16ths of an inch. Compounded, I end up with a quarter inch unlevel stand that I'm not comfortable setting a big tank on. I will invest in a table saw at some point in the future.

You really only need the table saw to rip lumber. To make perfect cuts get a miter box. You can find them used at every pawn shop. Also always have a speed square so you can make sure the blade is set plumb and square for 90 degree cuts. And as far as sheeting use a router with a bearing. Mount what ever your using square your stand with the material and screw it up run the router through it and viola. Perfect cut to the size you want. I'll show you more as we go along. I'm a union carpenter too if I didn't already tell
 
So hears the progress I made on the stand I ran out of material tomorrow the majority of the trim will be finished and doors will be cut.

View attachment 82743

This is where the top connects to the legs.
 
Agenda for tomorrow afternoon is to finish the trip, sand down the plastic trim and mask for paint, strip out old silicone and clean the glass. If I have time I'll mask the inside in perperation for silicone saturday morning. Also Saturday I'll be cutting out doors and attaching trim to the cutouts to use as doors and caulking the trim.
 
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