OP
OP
150 gallon build
- Thread starter Khij159753
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
OP
OP
Khij159753
Aquarium Advice Addict
The numbers just get posted with the pictures. I think it’s just my phone ??*
but yes my PH always runs at about 8.0 not really sure why but it’s always stable and always right there (yes I checked multiple test kits) but in my past experience and so far with this tank as well, that level doesn’t seem to bother anything as long as it’s consistent and doesn’t have any swings.
OP
OP
Khij159753
Aquarium Advice Addict
The numbers just get posted with the pictures. I think it’s just my phone ??*
Also that was during my cycle so my ammonia was very high. Needed to wait for it to turn back to yellow and my nitrite and nitrate had not yet spiked and came back down. Hopefully that helps.
You'll have some swing from two hours after the lights go out, to 2 hours after the lights come on. Have you checked that? You really require a digital reading that has been precalibrated each time you use it with pH 7 and 9 buffers. It is one of the best gauges of any problems. You are right, it is not the value but the drift from light to dark what is useful. You will get some drift. Pen pH meters on eBay from China are around 6GBP.
OP
OP
Khij159753
Aquarium Advice Addict
Yes there is a drift down to about 7.8ish. Probably closer to 7.9 but I run a light over my sump on an opposite schedule to my tanks lights and it evens it out so I never have the swing [emoji1360]
Hydrogen sulphide messes the water up for around 14 days. Add a scream of 1 cm sized air bubbles in the rear corners of the system for that time. Or leave in place, it's good to have air like that. Only cm sized bubbles. You may adjust so a constant stream. Produce them from open ended airline. Not from an airstone. Microbubbles (less than a cm) are to be discouraged. If you get lengths of 6 mm OD clear acrylic tube from eBay, then you can run the air there aesthetically. Don't add to the sump, the depth is insufficient and dragging air into return pumps can cause gas bubble disease. That's another story for another day. Good luck.
If you remove the sand bed and nitrate becomes too abundant too, PM me, I've got a cheap but very effective solution for that.
If you remove the sand bed and nitrate becomes too abundant too, PM me, I've got a cheap but very effective solution for that.
OP
OP
Khij159753
Aquarium Advice Addict
Lol my tank is well past the cycle now. Everything is happy and healthy. I’ll take a recent picture when I get home from work.
OP
OP
Khij159753
Aquarium Advice Addict
Sniperhank
Giant Clam Addict
I wouldn't even bother testing pH. With how it varies through the day and between seasons, seems silly to even track. Don't put a bubbler in a saltwater system, it'll just create salt creep. Having powerheads in the system is enough. If there are issues with CO exchange, pointing a powerhead up so there is a ripple on the surface of the water will be more displacement than needed on an open top.
OP
OP
Khij159753
Aquarium Advice Addict
I don’t anymore, I only do whenever I set up a new tank to make sure it stays stable and for me I have almost no swings throughout the day night and season. ??*
definitely would never put a bubbler in my display tank. (IMO they have a small use in saltwater but mostly just for QT tanks) Also I got plenty of surface Agitation from the power heads and return pump. [emoji1360] this all started from a guy asking about my test results from a water test I did like a year ago. I’ve got plenty of years experience and was just trying to answer his question (even though it was about something so out dated for my tank) to help him understand.
Similar threads
