cyano control: antibiotics?

[dansemacabre]

So, in the article hosted on this site, it says that antibiotics may be used to treat for cyanobacteria if it becomes a problem. I have no idea what's going on in my tank, but the cyano broke out like wildfire a few days ago. There's nasty algae growing all over, and it's ridiculous. My 2 ocellaris clowns and neon goby have vanished. The only fish remaining are the 4 chromis. The corals look fine, and the clam is more than happy. His shell has grown by about 1/4". The Xenia look a bit less happy, though still pulsing away. I'm using RO/DI, no it's not a dirty filter, yes I'm skimming. I have no idea what's going on, but it's got to stop.

I'm about to do a significant water change, and I'm wondering if anyone has any suggesstions? Also, what kind of antibiotic would you use? One effective against gram-negative or gram-positive or a multi-purpose aquarium antibiotic? Tank is not new, and I've never had a problem like this. Thanks! :-\

 

[Nitrate]

I feel your pain. After a months long battle with Cyano it simple dissapeared one day and stayed away for about 2 months only to reappear overnight.

Two products that I have heard will work - Chemi-Clean (I think thats whats its called) Thats what my LFS uses and he swears by it, and Poly-Ox. I used it Poly-Ox with limited results.

I think both of these products work by coverting organics, they are not antibiotics.

I had a high amount of organics in my water and had to do a lot of work and several large water changes to get it under control.

 

[sumphead]

BAHHHH, NOOOOOoooo anti-biotics. Most anti-biotics contain copper. And those that don't can still harm a reef. I must insist a big NO NO for the anti-biotics. Cyano is pain no doubt. But even great reef tanks battle it from time to time. Excessive nuitrients are the cause and antibiotics won't fix that anyway. Fix the problem not the symtoms. Here's what I suggest

1 - stop feeding! no not all together but at least a few days, then cut back your normal schedule. We can elaborate more on that later

2- Siphon off all cyano you can.

3- Waterchange just liek you said, and another soon after.

4- If you don't run carbon. Run it. If you do, change it.

5- Run a phosphate filter. (phosguard or the like)
phoshates are the fuel for cyano. Get rid of it and it goes away

6- cut back on your light cycle

7- more flow. I don't know how your flow is, but the more the merrier and less cyano too.

I've seen your posts before, I know this isn't a new tank. Even though you have not had issues of like before, you may have been slowly adding to the problem over time via phoshates in food, top offs, anything really. This happens to the best of tanks I promise. Do you have a fuge? If so how are your macros looking?

Hang in there, and I didn't mean to sound harsh if I did. Keep us posted.

R-

 

[Sea Cat]

I used one bag of the Chemi-Pure filter at the link below.
It got rid of my Cyano in one week.

http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=24491;category_id=2267;pcid1=1965;pcid2=

 

[ellisz]

I am so there with you. I have tried a few things and it still comes back.

I get it on the substrate on the sides and back corners so I have always assumed more water flow will help but I have a mag7, 2 maxi 1200's and a maxi 900 equivalent. I have tried different directions and now have a timered strip like wavemaker. I feed every other day a blender mush.

I think my aquascaping is causing dead spots but it is very frustrating. I also run carbon and I am using some phosguard from seachem which is not doing much.

I need to get my little siphon tube out again

 

[dansemacabre]

Thanks for the replies! I just bought "Purigen" from SeaChem. It's said to remove Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, water impurities, without really impacting trace elements. It is also rechargeable...when it turns a dark brown, you soak it in a bleach:water (1:1) solution, thoroughly rinse after a day of soaking, throw it into some water and Dechlorinate the heck out of it, and it's like new. Hoping this helps. Water change soon should hopefully help. I upped the skimmer so that it pulls anything out of the water. -crosses fingers- I don't really want to go the antibiotic route either.

edited-just saw sumpheads reply:
Syphoned off all I could. Will replace carbon right now. Added the purigen, I'm not sure if it removes phosphates, but I assume that it does. If not, I can get some Phos-X or the like. Here's the light cycle, comments on it please:

Actinics: 9a-9p
Halides: 10:30-7:30

Flow is pretty good. So good my plate coral dislikes me Mag 12 on a spray bar, aimed in all sorts of directions. 2 ZooMed "power sweep" rotating powerheads. The water moves. I'm going to buy another powerhead that will push all the surface water to the overflow, to help skim off gunk and to help agitate the surface water even more.
Ideas? Thanks!

Thanks! I'll keep you posted, and best of luck in your cyano battles!

 

[steve-s]

edited-just saw sumpheads reply:
Syphoned off all I could. Will replace carbon right now. Added the purigen, I'm not sure if it removes phosphates, but I assume that it does. If not, I can get some Phos-X or the like.

You need a non aluminium based PO4 sponge. The Purigen is a decent product but it will only aid in nitrogenous waste control.

Cheers
Steve

 

[sumphead]

Glad to see you looking at other methods than the antibiotics. Whew, that was close. As far as flow goes I have a mag 12 and two maxi1200 on a 50Gal cube and I still get a little cyano from time to time. I see you mostly have softies so more flow may not be a big option for you. As steve-S said, he always says the right things, get a good PO4 sponge filter. Make sure it isn't a liquid that claims to nuetralize phosphates, but something in a bag. I like Phos-Guard personally. Hang in there...

What is your feeding schedule like?

R-

 

[dansemacabre]

I'll look for a phosphate sponge. I feed the fish once a day. The bubble and LT plate coral get a silverside soaked in Zoe once every week or so...at night when their tentacles are out. Phyto is dosed for the Deresa clam and Stylophora once every 2 or 3 days. The torch refuses to eat anything I give it, but seems to be doing well as it is under one of the MH bulbs.

Does the lighting schedule I have look decent, or do you recommend a shorter photoperiod?

And yes, steve-s always says the right thing. =] Thanks again to you both!

 

[sumphead]

I think your lighting schedule is just fine for a normal cycle. Try everthing else before you go messing with your timers. Again, the most important thing with cyano is the nutrients and phosphates. I would back way off on the food feeding to every other day to 3 days. Back off the phyto for sure to once a week and I personally recommend cyclop-eeze between the phyto. It probably just me and my superstitions but I don't trust any store bought phyto as being live. Do you grow your own? Don't sweat the torch he gets enough from the light and filterfeeding from the water colomn.

Keep us posted

R-

 

[cathyjane]

I was having unexplainable algae problems several months ago and nothing I tried worked. I finally bought a UV sterilizer and all of my problems disappeared. It can be an expensive solution but it really helped my tank.

 

[dansemacabre]

It's DT's phyto.
Tank seems to be clearing of cyano...algae is still a big problem.
I have the algae grow disks and food...I'm waiting to drain my 2-liter bottles.