Liverock/filtration

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ConanTheLibraia

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Apr 25, 2003
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What could be the problems of using mechanical filtration with live rock? If you had a tank where you just used live rock as a decoration but didn't have a whole lot of it, could you still have mechanical fitration and maybie a biowheel filter, and have the liverock thrive and possibly support corals or certian things that sprout out from it? Also, how much light would you need to have lots of neat things sprout out of and get lots of growth on your liverock?
 
To get corals to sprout, you are kinda pushing it. You have to buy most of them. I think you can get coraline with a good spectrum of light and about 3 watts per gallon, although that is not as important.
 
In the senerio you are describing, if only a small amount of LR were to be used, you would have to use some outher means of filtration... IMO or EX, the bio wheel and other types of W/D media, will produce nitrates and with high levels and some med to low levels, corals will not survive. This is the reason it is talked so much in the forums about having 1.5 to 2 lbs per gal of live rock...Then, there is no need for other means of filtration...Add a 4 to 6 inch DSB and you will be set. I think you would have to do a lot of water changes to keep the nitrates and phosphates in check using other forms of filtration such as W/D Bio Wheels....
 
I still don't really understand, If you get 3 watts per gallon, should that be mixed between actinic and white, or all 50/50 or what? Also I was looking through lighting the other day and saw a bulb labeled "blue" Does this mean its actinic or just a fluorescent bulb thats blue? It was like 7 watts which wouldnt be anything, I was thinking this was just to encourage spawning.
 
Most people have had good results with 1/2 actinic and 1/2 white light (6500-10000k). You can get by with less than 3 wpg if all you have is LR. For corals, even softies, you'll need at least that much...more is better. You can get "blue" bulbs and "true actinic" bulbs. Either one will work although the "true actinics" have their spectral peak closer to 450nm (I think that number is right) while the "blue" bulbs have a wider spectral coverage. The true actinics usually are a violet color...sort of a faded blue.
If you're willing to be patient, you can substitute dry base rock for some of the LR. It will eventually become LR...just takes a little longer. Save some $$.
 
Thanks loganj, (about the having a little baserock and a little liverock has been suggested to me before and it seems like a good idea, I am thinking I will do it). So the total 3 watts per gallon (or more) could be a 50/50 mix of actinic and white?

loganj said:
closer to 450nm (I think that number is right)

Oh yea, what does the "nm" stand for? (I am so inexperienced)
 
nm = nanometer
I refers to the wave length of light produced.
Visible light is between 700 nm and 400 nm.
Red is around 680 nm
Yellow- Green is around 550 nm
Violet is around 410 nm
UV (ultra violet) Sterilizers use 254 nm to kill bacteria and algea
Sorry, more than you wanted to know. :wink:
 
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