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Old 10-08-2013, 07:31 PM   #21
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Oh. That explained a lot. But, just so I know what to branch my researching out on, more, should I get an ocellaris or two, or a percula or two? Also, are percula and orange clownfish the same breed?
Percula clowns get a little larger than ocellaris clowns so I would try and get ocellaris. However do not get 1 percula and 1 ocellaris or they will fight. Do you want a goby as well because if you do I would just get one clown from either species. If not get 2 ocellaris clowns. They interact better in pairs IMO. And both are orange and pretty hard to differentiate but perculas usually get more black to their body than ocellaris. Here's my pair until one just recently jumped.


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Old 10-08-2013, 07:35 PM   #22
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Percula clowns get a little larger than ocellaris clowns so I would try and get ocellaris. However do not get 1 percula and 1 ocellaris or they will fight. Do you want a goby as well because if you do I would just get one clown from either species. If not get 2 ocellaris clowns. They interact better in pairs IMO. And both are orange and pretty hard to differentiate but perculas usually get more black to their body than ocellaris. Here's my pair until one just recently jumped.
Jumped? Do you literally mean that they jumped out of the tank? By the way, nice tank And by pairing up, it's like schooling on a smaller scale, right?
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:37 PM   #23
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if the conditions are perfect yes you could be knee deep in babies lol when i got my caramel clownfish, they were the same color, same size, everything, then one day i noticed one more of a mocha color and bigger, and now i know theyve paired off and shes such a sweetheart, they sleep cosy together in the same corner every night. thanks i actually swapped to a oceanis systems 46g bow front, and i havent started a build its all the same stuff with different stock and way more room lol ive heard of people with success in having to species of clowns but just my $0.02 i would say get matching clowns theyll always be together once they pair off and make your tank much prettier to non-aquarists
Thanks! Only aquarist in my family is my dad, and apparently an uncle of mine, I don't know who. So I'd love to see two little fish, swimming happily along
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:41 PM   #24
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Jumped? Do you literally mean that they jumped out of the tank? By the way, nice tank And by pairing up, it's like schooling on a smaller scale, right?
Yes I recently upgraded my pair to a 20 gallon rimless tank and my smaller one went carpet surfing. I found him dried up on the carpet around my tank, very sad. Pairing means that they will form a male, female duo and hang out all the time.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:46 PM   #25
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Percula clowns get a little larger than ocellaris clowns so I would try and get ocellaris. However do not get 1 percula and 1 ocellaris or they will fight. Do you want a goby as well because if you do I would just get one clown from either species. If not get 2 ocellaris clowns. They interact better in pairs IMO. And both are orange and pretty hard to differentiate but perculas usually get more black to their body than ocellaris. Here's my pair until one just recently jumped.
Actually that's not completely true but in this situation it is. Perculas and ocellaris (false perculas) are actually known to cross breed and make some beautiful species. But that requires a bigger tank just in case, so you're right. beautiful fish by the way.

Also, thought I'd ask since it hasn't really been touched upon, are you planning a nano reef? That's my specialty in saltwater. I'm more of a coral guy.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:56 PM   #26
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Actually that's not completely true but in this situation it is. Perculas and ocellaris (false perculas) are actually known to cross breed and make some beautiful species. But that requires a bigger tank just in case, so you're right. beautiful fish by the way.

Also, thought I'd ask since it hasn't really been touched upon, are you planning a nano reef? That's my specialty in saltwater. I'm more of a coral guy.
Thanks about the clowns they are awesome fish, very weird but very awesome! True lol but I figured since it was only a 10 I wouldn't even tempt her with 2 different species of clowns. Also, more of a coral fan here as well!
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:04 PM   #27
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Wait a minute- will I still have to go through the cycling process, although I am buying pre-mixed water?
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:08 PM   #28
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Wait a minute- will I still have to go through the cycling process, although I am buying pre-mixed water?
Yes most bacteria isn't in the water column, but on the rocks and substrate. The pre mixed waiter is just their ro/di water mixed with salt, so it's just like taking it from the tap and adding salt only much better if you don't have an ro system. Definite yes.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:30 PM   #29
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Yes most bacteria isn't in the water column, but on the rocks and substrate. The pre mixed waiter is just their ro/di water mixed with salt, so it's just like taking it from the tap and adding salt only much better if you don't have an ro system. Definite yes.
Also, I was talking, and apparently, I don't need to fully cycle the tank, if I have live rock, coral, live sand, and pre-mixed freshwater. I would just put in a hardy fish and a cleaning shrimp, or just a shrimp, and wait...wouldn't a shrimp from the supermarket rot?
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:38 PM   #30
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Also, I was talking, and apparently, I don't need to fully cycle the tank, if I have live rock, coral, live sand, and pre-mixed freshwater. I would just put in a hardy fish and a cleaning shrimp, or just a shrimp, and wait...wouldn't a shrimp from the supermarket rot?
All live things (rock and sand) is a great route. But the mini cycle could permanently scar a hardy fish with ammonia burns and shortens it's life span drastically. The rotting shrimp is what makes it cycle! That's what creates the ammonia! If you really don't want to put anything in the tank, then put all the live sand and rock in, and after a day test your parameters. After the ammonia and nitrites are mostly down, put a clownfish in. Then do water changes EVERY DAY. This method isn't very ethical if I could say, but it works. I really recommend the shrimp. Remember cutting corners and being impatient will come back to you later.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:40 PM   #31
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Oh and by the way get invertebrates after everything is stable! They are sensitive to parameter fluctuations!
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:42 PM   #32
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All live things (rock and sand) is a great route. But the mini cycle could permanently scar a hardy fish with ammonia burns and shortens it's life span drastically. The rotting shrimp is what makes it cycle! That's what creates the ammonia! If you really don't want to put anything in the tank, then put all the live sand and rock in, and after a day test your parameters. After the ammonia and nitrites are mostly down, put a clownfish in. Then do water changes EVERY DAY. This method isn't very ethical if I could say, but it works. I really recommend the shrimp. Remember cutting corners and being impatient will come back to you later.
+1
I wouldn't subject a fish to ammonia it is an extremely stressful and can scar the fish or kill it if you do not keep on top of water changes. I would just toss the shrimp in give it 3 weeks to a month then slowly add livestock. Patience is key in this side of the hobby!
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:50 PM   #33
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All live things (rock and sand) is a great route. But the mini cycle could permanently scar a hardy fish with ammonia burns and shortens it's life span drastically. The rotting shrimp is what makes it cycle! That's what creates the ammonia! If you really don't want to put anything in the tank, then put all the live sand and rock in, and after a day test your parameters. After the ammonia and nitrites are mostly down, put a clownfish in. Then do water changes EVERY DAY. This method isn't very ethical if I could say, but it works. I really recommend the shrimp. Remember cutting corners and being impatient will come back to you later.
Mm, thanks;
I'll probably shorten the cycle, though, and change the water daily, but for how long? Until it's stable? And 25% or 10% water changes? Thanks for all this great advice, by the way; and I may go for a nano-reef. What are some pros and cons to that, and is it any more difficult to maintain?
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:56 PM   #34
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Mm, thanks; I'll probably shorten the cycle, though, and change the water daily, but for how long? Until it's stable? And 25% or 10% water changes? Thanks for all this great advice, by the way; and I may go for a nano-reef. What are some pros and cons to that, and is it any more difficult to maintain?
You can't "shorten a cycle" they're all about the same. You can only do things to speed it up. And still wait at the least 2 weeks before adding anything at all. And it's also gonna be a pain to do a water change everyday if your buying premixed water? On my 10 gallon, I do a 1 gallon water change once a week. I'd seriously just slow down and take your time.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:57 PM   #35
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Mm, thanks;
I'll probably shorten the cycle, though, and change the water daily, but for how long? Until it's stable? And 25% or 10% water changes? Thanks for all this great advice, by the way; and I may go for a nano-reef. What are some pros and cons to that, and is it any more difficult to maintain?
If you are cycling with the fish id say 50-60% changes whenever ammonia goes up. If you want a reef you will need good lighting and very little to 0 nitrates. Definitely less forgiving than a fish only with live rock set up but not to hard if you were to do beginner corals.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:01 PM   #36
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I dont know if anyone has already said this but always use RODI water!!!! If you dont have one you can get one from BRS or from your lfs.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:02 PM   #37
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Mm, thanks; I'll probably shorten the cycle, though, and change the water daily, but for how long? Until it's stable? And 25% or 10% water changes? Thanks for all this great advice, by the way; and I may go for a nano-reef. What are some pros and cons to that, and is it any more difficult to maintain?
Until you get readings of zero ammonia and nitrites, and then low nitrates.

Ah reefs. My favorite. Haha. Well:
Pros:
-Beautiful
-lps (large polyped stony) corals of some types can host a pair of clowns
-gives you experience for the future
-more eye catching to non-aquarists and aquarist alike!
-some corals (GSP/green star polyps for example) grow so fast that you can frag it for store credit

Cons:
-Definitely need to keep up on water changes
-Need more expensive lighting
-need to limit evaporation to keep a stable salinity (this one is for especially nanos)
-more food is necessary for some corals (I'd steer away from those as a beginner)
-higher filtration is necessary

Is it harder to maintain? Yes and no. If you keep up on your water changes with just fish like you're supposed to, then it's really no different. But some people slack thinking "ah they'll be fine". With that attitude your corals will be dead within a few months. I'd start out as a fowlr. Get all your fish and inverts, and then add the corals. Take it very slow. The more time you spend, the more experience you get. The more experience you get, the easier it will be.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:04 PM   #38
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If you want a reef start with some zoanthids, and polyps. They are easy and require little light. Have you thought about lighting?
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:06 PM   #39
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If you want a reef start with some zoanthids, and polyps. They are easy and require little light. Have you thought about lighting?
+1
Start with green star polyps, Xenia, mushrooms or zoas. Very hard to kill and most grow like weeds once established.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:09 PM   #40
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For a begginer get some T5s. They are pretty cheap and reliable but not as good as LEDs. They will heat up your tank. I have T5s in my reef and they took the temp from 78 fto 80f
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