tiger terror
Aquarium Advice Addict
Test before&after adding water. Basically use enough prime to pre-treat the water before you add it into your tank..
Prime will not affect the readings using an API test kit. If your tap water is treated with chloramines that may register as ammonia.
Really?save yourself a lot of hassle and headaches and just get some hardy fish and cycle the tank the proper way.
I have yet to read any great success stories on here concerning fishless cycling, but fish-in cycling works every time.
If you're adding to the bucket then dose the amount you're adding. If you're dosing prime into the tank, then dose the full volume of the tank.so i have a question?
I may need to top off or do a wc at some point during the cycle. if im topping off i will add prime to the bucket of new water, and if I need to do a wc at any point, my plan was to turn off the heater/pump, drain, then dose w/prime and fill with fresh water.
My question is, what should i expect to see from my tests after adding prime or new water with prime? will it mess up my readings? will I have to wait for a time then test, will I have to re-does the ammonia?
Sorry a few questions in there...
Yep, you hit the nail on the head.As I understand it, prime detoxifies ammonia and nitrites while keeping them in a form that the bacteria can eat. Perhaps someone more experienced can confirm.
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If you're adding to the bucket then dose the amount you're adding. If you're dosing prime into the tank, then dose the full volume of the tank.
If you remove water from your tank and replace it with tap water than your ammonia should drop. This is not because of the prime. It is because the ammonia is in the water and you are removing part of it.ok, so I am dumb here and I apologies for asking these seemingly stupid questions to you guys, but take this example..
I have dosed my tank with ammonia to 4ppm and i am waiting for it to drop, I then have to top off the water or try to replace 30% with a prime treated wc (because I fear that I may have stalled).
Will either of these actions make my ammonia readings on my master test kit drop? If so do I then re-dose the ammonia to get the readings back up to 4ppm (even though in theory the ammonia should be locked up and enough for the BB to feed on)?
If you remove water from your tank and replace it with tap water than your ammonia should drop. This is not because of the prime. It is because the ammonia is in the water and you are removing part of it.
IMO, 4ppm is more than you need anyway for a fishless cycle so I would not replace ammonia after this water change. 2ppm is more than enough to fishless cycle with.
All looks normal. The only thing that is a little odd is that ammonia didn't drop that much as nitrite was rising but that could just be a lack of precision in the color of the tubes. I would expect ammonia to start dopping in the next coupld of days if you have that much nitrite.
ok good to know, yes my eyes could be lacking in my older years. I do try to go to the strongest light, but there you go. I will post back with Changes.
Thanks for the help Dalto.
I have really good vision, particularly with colors, and I have the worst time with the Color charts!
Sent from my iPhone with three hands tied behind my back.
I have yet to read any great success stories on here concerning fishless cycling, but fish-in cycling works every time.