Am I doing everything right for my tank?

[AngelFishGirl]

I just want to make sure everything is okay for my aquarium, as far as temperature, pH, and especially the amount of fish.

I have a cycled 55 gallon aquarium with NO live plants, but plenty of fake ones and many decorations.

The temperature is at 80 degrees

I have quick start, stress coat, ph regulator. and water conditioner cycling through there. All are added again when fish are added (except pH) or when I do water changes.

I do water changes about every 3 weeks to a month. Sooner if something is wrong with my tank. The only issue I have had so far is ich which I had cured using heat and salt treatment.

My inhabitants are 2 angelfish, one full grown one young (and soon adding 2 that are pairing)
2 red eye tetras
4 black skirt tetras
7 mollies
3 platys
And a breeder tank only about 1/4 of a gallon if that. I sell the baby mollies in there for some extra cash.

That's not too many fish right? Once again it's a cycled 55 gallon tank.

My pH is at 7.0
Nitrates 0
Nitrites 10

Thank you very much

 

[jcolon]

Double check your numbers ... I'd say you got your nitrites (should be 0) and nitrates (10ppm is ok) mixed up.

 

[EndlersEatGuppies]

IMO it's going to be a heavy bio load on the tank if you feed them a lot. Personally I would get rid of the mollies and platys, get around 8 more red eye tetras, 6 more black skirts, and keep the angels and the new angels you're getting.

Defiantly do weekly water change's with your current stock list. Honestly I'm surprised your nitrate's aren't high.

 

[Lt.]

Well I'd say switch to weekly-biweekly PWCs, and dont mess with your PH unless its REALLY far away from the ideal ph of your fish. I've always heard people say its better for fish to have a stable ph even if its not at the most ideal level.

 

[AngelFishGirl]

Double check your numbers ... I'd say you got your nitrites (should be 0) and nitrates (10ppm is ok) mixed up.

An I mixed up? I'm at school right now. Which is the one that's due to waste in the water? One should always be 0, one can have a little. Which is which?

 

[The CodFather]

Girl! Get your nose back in th books HAHAHA!! (I type this as I'm supposed to be working LOL) the nitrAtes is the one with a little as an acceptable ammount

 

[stingrays4]

Hi Nitrate is the one that usually creeps up as the tank matures
Nitrite and ammonia should be 0!
I wouldn't mess with the P/H - unless your tap water is that bad? My P/H is 8 and my fish are all OK,and me cories have even breed in that
I would do weekly water changes say 25%
I would personally also remove the platies and increase the numbers of red eye's and the black skirts.
The mollies are also not ideal in there - but that is only my opnion
Me sat in front of the telly after a hard day at work then had a filling at the dentists

 

[AngelFishGirl]

Hahaha alright I am so sorry!!! Okay yes I got them mixed up! I'm sorry!

 

[Teakwood]

Hahaha alright I am so sorry!!! Okay yes I got them mixed up! I'm sorry!

I almost guarantee weekly water changes would fix almost any problems you are having and look into getting an API master test kit, its a liquid test kit that will test for ammonia nitrites nitrates and ph. I agree on letting you ph stay where it is apparently fluctuating it is more of an issue then leaving it at 8. Your previously higher nitrates may have been part of the problem you had with your angels, and knowing your ammonia levels would help alot in knowing your tank is cycled good luck

 

[Teakwood]

Also from what I've read other people on this forum post about Ick, it can live for 3 weeks on a fish? So if you bring one home from the pet store alot of people QT for 3 weeks because in that time any illnesses that may pop up will. So it can take sometime to make sure ick is actually gone from the tank, wasn't sure how long it had been since the ick out break.