Hello, new here, and already crashed my tank :(

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e30 gangsta

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
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Location
miami
Hey guys new here. Just setup and bought my fish last night. Tank was being cycled for 1 week prior to adding fish. I added the fish, and woke up this morning to find 5 out of 7 fish dead.

My ballon molley, black molley, glo fish, tequila sunrise tetra, and my mickey mouse platy. :(

Temperature was fine all night, but I tested this morning and the ph had gone up. I will head back to add ph decrease later today, and hopefully the rest of my fish still survive. ( rubber lip, bottom feeder catfish, and 1 other I forgot the name at the moment.)
 
Read up on cycling a tank. A cycle can take anywhere from a month to two months to build up enough beneficial bacteria to support your fish and keep ammonia and nitrites at a safe level and then fish should be added slowly so the bacteria can grow to support the additional fish. You will need to do at least a daily water change for the next several weeks to save the fish that are still alive. Also try to get an old filter sponge from an established tank to put in your existing filter to give your tank a head start. That can really speed up the process.
 
I have read that, and my local stores said 1 week of cycling should be enough as long as I used a bacteria starter.

How much % of water should I change daily? 25%?
 
Sadly, the store was wrong, as evidenced by the dead fish :( I think you should stick with just the two fish for a while, until your tank is properly cycled. How big is the tank by the way?
 
I have read that, and my local stores said 1 week of cycling should be enough as long as I used a bacteria starter.

How much % of water should I change daily? 25%?


Bacteria starters do work...if done properly. I'm in SW, but I know that you really need to test your water, and test it before you put fish in your tank. You may want to do some more reading on cycling online.
 
from most experiences that ive seen the bacteria starters do not work as advertised and often just cause an ammonia spike.

imo you should get an API master test kit and keep only the two fish you have left and do pwc's until the ammonia is below .25 ppm
 
from most experiences that ive seen the bacteria starters do not work as advertised and often just cause an ammonia spike.

imo you should get an API master test kit and keep only the two fish you have left and do pwc's until the ammonia is below .25 ppm

Api master test kit, do normal pet stores sell this?

And pwc's? Can someone please explain to me what this acronym means.

I did test the water, with tetra easy test stripes. I am reading online though that they are highly inaccurate. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Api master test kit, do normal pet stores sell this?

I did test the water, with tetra easy test stripes. I am reading online though that they are highly inaccurate. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

i myself have never used the test strips but yes they have been deemed inaccurate, the API kit is just a liquid test kit and yes most lfs should have some variant of them
 
Perfect, as per pwc does that mean ( partial water change ) if so how much % wise should I change?
 
Also be sure to use a good water conditioner to remove harmful toxins from your tap water.
 
That's what I use. 1 cap full treats 50 gallons. Since my water seems to be all over the place should I just use 1 cap full every time? Is adding too much bad for the tank/ water?
 
Perfect, as per pwc does that mean ( partial water change ) if so how much % wise should I change?

During fish-in cycling, you need to test your water daily & do pwcs anytime your ammonia and/or nitrite levels reach .25ppm (or higher). Ammonia & nitrite are very toxic to your fish. Until you get your test kit (most stores carry API freshwater master test kit, also on amazon & ebay), i would do 50%pwcs daily with a good water conditioner dosed to the size of your tank. Make sure you temperature match your new water to the water in your tank so you dont shock your fish. If you are using Prime, 1 cap is dose for 50gal- each thread inside the cap equates to a dose for 10gal (1 thread=1ml per 10g). Once you get your test kit, you will be able to figure out how much water needs to be changed based upon your levels of amm/nitrite-you may need to do more than one 50% change. Hope this helps!
 
Just purchased my master api kit, I will test the water once home and post my results. Also doing a 50% water change for good measure.

I dont have a extra heater to heat the water to temp. Any ideas?
 
Just purchased my master api kit, I will test the water once home and post my results. Also doing a 50% water change for good measure.

I dont have a extra heater to heat the water to temp. Any ideas?

I am assuming here you have hot water for taking a shower or washing dishes? Just match the temp out of the faucet to your tank water. Using your hand is accurate within a few degrees (go by feel- scoop some tank water into a bucket, put your hand in & match to the faucet) but a thermometer will work as well. Just make sure you are dosing water conditioner for the size of your tank-either add it before adding the new water or dose it per bucket (if you are using a bucket).
 
chances are since i will only be doing 25% or %50 pwc's ill just fill 1 bucket full of water, and add the dechlorinator, and water conditioner. Wait 20 minutes test the water, then if all is good add to the tank?

Correct process?
 
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