My first tank-- Advise please

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SwimmingWithTheFishes

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
71
Location
East Bay California
I am planning my first tank- so far I'm still in the research phase so I haven't bought any supplies yet.

I was thinking a 10 gal fw tank. I would like it to be planted, though I'm not sure what to get for this (which plants/ lights). As far as fish I was thinking since I love cat fish I'd get 5 Dwarf suckermouth catfish (one site said to get at least 3 another said 5) and 3 other small fish[1-1.5in] (tetra/neon). I want my fish to be happy so I don't want to push the limits -- is this too many fish?

Please tell me what to do. Oh, also i know about cycling and I can maybe go as large as 15 gal but I'm in a small apartment.

:n00b:
 
If you buying new or while looking try to find a hood that has screw in incandescent bulbs rather than the 18" fluorescent tube. This way you can get some screw in CFL(compact fluorescent) bulb and change the wattage very easily to grow some plants
 
thanks for the advice.

Endlers liverbears seam like great little guppy like fish. could I have 3 of these with the pygmy suckermouths and maybe a shrimp.

how many plant do i get? should i get any floating plants? What about drift wood can i collect my own (what treatments do i need to do?) Where can i read about plant care (i.e trimming ect.)

thanks I'm sure I'll have more ?s to come
 
how many plant do i get? should i get any floating plants? What about drift wood can i collect my own (what treatments do i need to do?) Where can i read about plant care (i.e trimming ect.)
I would first decide on the fish you want to get and then research them and their natural habitats some and see what plants they are used to living around. You can collect your own wood, but it has to be DEAD hard wood. I did the same for one of my 10g tanks. I boiled it about 2-3 hours and then I soaked it (using dechlorinated water) for about two weeks until it was water logged and then put it in my tank during the cycling process. Boiling kills any nasties on there that you don't want in your tank. If you have something to weigh it down you can just water log it in your tank after boiling and cooling.
 
Also, can i seed a FW tank from a SW filter?

Unfortunately no. The beneficial bacteria in FW and SW are no the same and would not survive in the other environment.

To learn about some plant options I'd recommend checking out the PlantGuide at PlantGeek.net. This will get you some basic info on a variety of plants. The actually amount of light over the aquarium will determine your options, but I'm betting you'll end up with some where between low and medium light.
 
I was thinking a 10 gal fw tank. Oh, also i know about cycling and I can maybe go as large as 15 gal but I'm in a small apartment.

I'm in an apartment, too and I found the space to put a 55g in my bedroom. Look up the tank sizes and start measuring. You may be surprised to find that you can fit a larger tank in your apartment. Also consider rearranging the furniture. The cedar chest in my bedroom is taking up the same amount of space as a 55g would, so I'm moving the chest into my closet.

Try really hard (space and $$-wise) to get the largest tank you can.
 
It would be much more benificial for you to try to go a bit bigger as you can house more of the fish you mentioned comfortably.. With endlers know that they reproduce worse than rabbits, and if you DO want babies it will be best to have only 1 male with 2 females..

the sites joy suggested are great make sure to stop by there and check em out
 
Ok, I'm going to go to another fish store. The first one only had 2 Oto's and no endlers liverbears--- but i don't want babies (i read 3 males can be housed together with minimal aggression) or maybe i should try a few fancy guppies(also males) or a single male beta. I'm really unsure, I want small, atractive fish that won't be a problem to keep with 5 or so otos in a planted aquarium.-- There are so many options! I even saw a dwarf african frog (the sign said 1.5in) maybe thats an option.

Oh and the 40 watt bulbs i saw were too long for a 10 gallon tank. And the plants at the store were labled "various aquatic plants" no species were given - maybe I wasn't at a very good store?

I'lve been looking at that plant site but havn't seen much about what plants are best for specific fish-- I'll keep looking


keep the great advice coming!
 
Check out the stickies in the planted tank forum here as well, a ton of info there.

You don't want 40W in the 10 gal - that will put you into very high light territory & you'll need CO2 & ferts to control algae. I would say for a 10, aim for no more than 20-25 W of NO fluorescent light to start. (Maybe 2 13W pigtails CF's if you have a screw in type fixture. And get daylight - aka Full Spectrum, 6700K - bulbs for best plant growth.)

As far as what plants goes with what fish, unless you are doing a biotrope & want to be ecologically correct, you don't have to worry too much. unless you have herbivour fish like goldies, you can put just about any plant with any fish. Just choose plants you like that will grow in your light level (and prob some easy ones to start).

Don't buy form a lfs that don't give you species name. Beware that a lot of chain store plants are actually non-aquatics (even when they label them aquarium plants) and will simply die when submerged. <That's one reason they don't label their plants.> Ideally, you want plants labeled with the Latin names to be sure of what you are getting.
 
these would be OK bulbs to start for some plants and cheap
Daylight 60 Light Bulb | Feit Electric | Walgreens

I'm currently running 2x 20w spiral bulbs and for the 1st week things were looking good. Then I added more plants that are faster growing and my nitrates dropped and I started to get algae even with reduced hours. So I'm starting some minimal dry ferts now to see what happens, I may just go back to the 2x 13w bulbs and not worry much about ferts since I have shrimp in this tank. I'm getting ready to setup a 40 Long so I'll use the ferts and higher light on that along with some DIY CO2.
 
You don't want 40W in the 10 gal - that will put you into very high light territory & you'll need CO2 & ferts to control algae.

Actually on a 10 gallon that would only be about medium light. Once you get under 20 gallons the WPG "rule" breaks down and you need more light per gallon that you would with a larger aquarium.
 
Ok so I'd like to get the tank started cycling tomorrow. But now I'm confused! :confused:

Do I get plants right away, after a while, or after cycling? i thought i read having a planted tank will reduce cycling time- but now i can't find where i read that. How else would this change cycling?

Will I need a heater? What about CO2 pump - i've read most plants need these but not java moss/ fern.

Also, I've done soem reading but what is your recomondation for a filter....substrate......air pump?

I do have to say this is the most helpful/ polite forum I've ever been on! Maybe, in I'll be able to help newbies in a few months. :D
 
Do a fishless cycle with no plants, leave the lights off. After its cycled add fish and plants and use the lights on a schedule(8-12hrs a day)

An AC(aquaclear) filter is good(petco has them onsale online now), if you getting a 10g then the AC20(used to be "mini") would be good. You dont need an air pump but could be helpful(maybe) to use at night with a DIY CO2 setup.

Then you have options, low light and low light plants and no CO2 is good to start. SO like 2x 13w spiral bulbs. This is basic and lower maintenance java Ferns, Crypts, Anubias, Mosses, ect.. are the plants that will do OK

Otherwise if you go high light like 40w total or more, then you are going to need ferts for plants and CO2 probably and can grow more range of plants and they grow faster. Higher maintenance and and a balance as algae becomes an issue.

Substrate is mostly personal preference(and cost), some like pool filter sand or just regular aquarium gravel. Or if you want to go higher light/CO2/Ferts/ higher tech then a "plant substrate" could be nice to have.
 
'Course the other option with the Endlers is to make sure you have some semi-carnivorous tank mates who will take care of most of the eggs/fry before they are even big enough to be seen.
 
Do I get plants right away, after a while, or after cycling? i thought i read having a planted tank will reduce cycling time- but now i can't find where i read that. How else would this change cycling?

When to add plants depends in large part on how you plant to cycle your aquarium. If you go with a fishless cycle, you'll want to wait on the plants until after you finish cycling since high levels ammonia plus lots of light tends to cause Green Water.

If you want to add plants sooner what you can do is a Silent Cycle. For this you would add plants right away (planting heavily) and let them get established and growing well for 2-3 weeks. After that you would add fish slowly keeping an eye on the Ammonia and Nitrites. If done correctly you should never see any Ammonia or Nitrite. The reason is that plants have lots of surface area for the beneficial bacteria to grow on and Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate is one of the nutrients that they consume.

If you aren't planting heavily and choose to do a traditional cycle with fish, then adding plants can help to reduce the cycling time since they will consume some of the Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate and will introduce some of the necessary beneficial bacteria. You'd need to keep an eye on the Ammonia and Nitrite, and be prepared to do large water changes to keep them in safe levels. Most people won't recommend a traditional cycle since there is a greater chance of accidently harming the fish involved, but the plants do decrease this risk some.

Will I need a heater? What about CO2 pump - i've read most plants need these but not java moss/ fern.

If you are keeping tropical fish and plants you'll want a heater. The need for CO2 injection is driven by the amount of light over the aquarium. Once you get more than about medium light CO2 injection becomes necessary as the ambient levels are no longer sufficient to keep up with the plant needs. All plants use carbon (which CO2 is a form) in varying degrees, even Java Moss and Java Fern.

Also, I've done some reading but what is your recomondation for a filter....substrate......air pump?

For this size aquarium, I'd probably go with a Aquaclear filter. They are high quality, inexpensive, and have lot of room for media.

If you're injecting CO2 then no airpump, but if you're not it's entirely up to you whether or not you use one.

With substrate you can get pretty much anything you want. Idealy it should be about 2-3mm in diameter and not have any sharp edges. Small gravel or Pool filter sand are a couple of easy options. You can also get into some of the plant specific substrates if you want.

As others have recommended, check out the Read This First Stick in the Planted Tank forum for links to lots of great information.
 
Ok..... so I got a 20 gallon tank. 24" long. I got the Aquacear 30 filter (it's so quiet compared the ones at work). I cleaned the tank and gravel then filled it up. I put a capful of amquel+ in and three spoonfuls of ammonia.

My ammonia test I took and hour later said I had abou 4ppm (notice no decimal pnt). So i jumped back online and found the API aquarium pharmaceuticals does not work with Amquel+. So I guess I'll get a new test tomorrow after work when I get the thermomiter.

Oh, and the light. After going a few places for tanks I finally found a plant light. But it's 65Watts! I thought this seemed high but the lady assured me it wasn't a high for a 20 Gal tank. Also, I still need a lid?
 
you dont Need a lid, many people leave tanks open on top then have lights that hang from the ceiling. Others have light fixtures similar to what I think your describing it has rests on the tank rim or has legs support a few inches above the tank. Some choose to get a glass/plastic lid with those type fixtures.

BTW I'm no expert but that may be a lot of light for just basic plants w/o ferts or CO2(which means algae issues). What brand light and model is it?
 
Ok The Ballast is Corallife Aqulight deluxe serier single linear strip. The light is coralife 65 watt compact fluorescent 21 " long. The ballast rests pretty well on top of the tank but i fear if it is bumped i could fall in. I assume that would be a bad thing for the fish and the very expesive light.
 
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