New 90 gallong tank

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petunia100

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Nov 23, 2004
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Pennington, NJ
Okay guys, I need help! I'm undertaking the designe of a 90 gallon tank (can't wait)! :jump: I don't know much about planted tanks, especially the larger ones. The perk, in one way I guess is that I'm starting from scratch, just an empty tank, so I can do it right.

I was just wondering if there were any helpful hints or links that you could send my way.

Also, some information about good types of lighting, filters, substrates, etc.

Also, would I need to do CO2?

I am wanting this to be as low of a maintence tank as possible, so low light right?

I know java moss and fern, but what other plants would work well in a low maintence tank?

Anything else I should know before I get started?

I'm also posting this thread in the general discussion, because I need some advice!

TIA!!
 
Have you read all of stickies in this section Petunia? I suggest you do and then post any questions you may have. :wink:
 
Okay here come the questions!

I checked out plantgeek.net and looked at my low light options. I think I'll be very happy doing a low light tank. Basically various anubis, crypts, and java ferns/moss.

So for this set up a CO2 injection isn't needed in a 90 gallon tank?

As far as substrates go I will probably go with a coarser grain sand, should I put peat or laterite under the sand first? How thick should substrate be? Is 5 inches about right? How often do should I fertilize, my impression is with these plants it shouldn't be that often.

I'll need to get a canister filter, any suggestions on the brand?

My biggest confusion is the lighting I know that I need about 1.5-2 wpg, but this is calculated with the NO bulbs. What bulb should I use that I will have to change the least? I read in one of the stickies that the PC bulbs don't need to be changed. Can I put PC bulbs into my hood. I'm not very mechanical, 8O but I'm sure I could get some help with this if I needed to do some electrical work.

Thanks!!
 
I just realized you have two threads running on the same topic Petunia. It's gonna get confusing. You can go back to the other thread and insert a link to this one so the subjects don't overlap each other.

As long as you stay under 2wpg, CO2 will not be needed. PC lights may be a better option for you depending on the type of tank you have and whether the strip can fit over you tank. Unfortunately, all my links to sources are on my home computer.
 
You're correct on all counts. No CO2 is needed if the lighting isn't forcing the plants nutrient uptake. Therefore fertilizing can be kept at a minimum, as will algae. I wouldn't use laterite or any other substrate containing nutrients either. Rather I'd use plain gravel. I would opt for a double strip light giving you 90 WPG or slightly more. Err on the side of caution with lighting. Low light plants really don't require more tham 1 WPG. :wink:

As far as depth of substrate, your only rooting plants are the cypts. 4 inches should be fine. You could add some Elodea, Giant Vals, or Water Sprite for diversity. These plants do well in low light conditions.
 
Here's the link to the other thread, sorry about that.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?p=466533#466533

What sized gravel is best, I tried planting a tank before and made many mistakes, one of which was too large of gravel I think. Would the coarse sand work okay? It said in the sticky that pool filter or sand blasting sand worked well.

Also, can one use woods like maple, oak, etc in the tank? Is it okay to use fresh wood or should it be dried wood? Are there some woods not to use, for example I think that cherry wood contains toxins...

Also on setting up the tank is it best to put in the substrate, add a few inches of water, add the wood, rocks and plants, then fill up with water. Then it will probably be a couple of days before I add the fish. That way if I need to move things around it wouldn't stress the new fish. Then comes the joy of cycling. :) I'm planning on using biospira, I've used it before with good success. With a canister filter would it be better to add the spirea to the canister?? I've never used a canister filter before.

Thanks! :mrgreen:
 
Pea sized gravel is best (@2mm). Some members use flourish excel, which contains trace elements that the plants can use but that isn't necessary. Some others have used sand but I haven't.

Regular driftwood is your best bet. It will not give you any problems other than the initial sinking and release of tannins (which is not harmful to fish).

I've never used bio-spira so the introduction of the product is beyond my realm.

Your plan looks excellent.
 
Instead of a canister could I use two HOB filters. I really like the aquaclear I have now. If I use two Aquaclear 300, I should have good filtration and if I put them at opposite ends of the tank, I should have equal filtration throughout the tank. What would the benefits of a canister be over a HOB?
 
A couple of things:

1. Reduces the overall footprint of the tank. You can save the 5" in the rear and it looks neater IMO

2. Less maintainance. You only have to clean one filter rather than two.

3. Planted tanks - Here is where the canister really proves it's worth. With a HOB, surface agitation removes CO2 from the water column. With two HOB's, there will be so much surface agitation that your plants will more than likely become CO2 starved.
The canister provides little or no surface agitation (depending on output nozzle placement) and your plants will love you for it.
 
Good to know, plants are living too and I want them to be happy and heathy like my fish. They look much nicer when their healthy too.
 
Definitely strive to have at least 1 wpg of lighting. Without that you will be seriously limited in the types and health of the plants you keep.

As for substrate, you may want to consider a planted tank type of substrate like Caribsea's Eco-Complete. Eco-Complete plant substrate is one of the best all around substrates for planted tanks, not just because it contains nutrients for your root-feeding plants, but because its grain size and weight are just about perfect for holding down plants (and it's got a cool black color too :wink: ). www.aquariumplants.com, one of the Aquarium Advice sponsors, usually has a great deal on it.

I second (or is it third?) the idea of a canister filter. They just make life much easier for people with large tanks like yours.

I'm anxious to see what this tank is going to look like. Keep us posted :)
 
A canister would be more space efficient and easier to clean for that size tank. Imagine having to lift a HOB with like 2 gallons of water in it up and over your tank every time you need to clean it, and with a planted it will be often :) As far as co2 goes, as long as you keep the water level above the output with a hob you shouldnt have any co2 loss. If you go on www.drsfostersmith.com they have XP3 filters for 89.99 on sale.
What are the dimensions of your tank? My 90 is 72 long, and I bought 2 36" 110 watt fixtures off of www.aquatraders.com They now have a 72" 384 watt fixture though. They have different sizes and wattage available too. They also have MH, but youre going for low lighting.
Substrate is really up to what look you want. Do you want a dark sandy substrate? Onyx sand would be a good choice. Or do you want the look of gravel? Some small grade pea gravel would work.Or do you like light sand? Play or sand blasting sand with a small bit of peat mixed in would give you that look. I've never used eco-complete alot of people on here do, but I have used red sea flora base and had excellent results with it. You can see pics of it in my gallery if you like. www.freshwateraquariumplants.com has a good deal for that particular substrate right now.
Theres lots of choices out there, so do your research! And good luck! :D
 
Does anyone here use uv on their tanks? Is this a good idea? Does it affect the benificial bacteria? I wouldn't imagine that it woudl too much b/c the bacteria is pretty much in the filter and gravel, etc- not the water, right?
 
UV only kills bacteria if its floating in the water coelom.. the bacteria involved in filtration is attached to gravel, sand, plants, filter media, glass ect. ect. ect..... it is only said that you dont use UV when your trying to cycle an aquarium (wile the beneficial bacteria are trying to develope and adhere to something).
 
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