Bearfan's Auto-Topoff Documentation

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Bearfan

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Dec 30, 2002
Messages
3,967
Location
Franklin, TN
It's finally completed.

These first three pictures show the installation of the float into a standard 1-1/4" PVC cap. What it doesn't show is the second hole I ended up drilling in each one to allow for air to escape. It also doesn't show the dab of silicone I put at the wire connections just in case.

Floats are from Floatswitches.net

PVC is from Menards
 

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Next I took an extra computer power cable (The black cable) and extension cord (the white cable) and cut the ends not shown off. I stripped back the outer covering on each to expose the wires, snipped the ground wire off of the black cable (it's on a GFCI) and stripped the connections.

I took a project box and installed a 120V switch. I wired the positive wire to the switch and soldered the connection. I added a small jumper to the other side with a quick connect and installed quick connectes on the other 3 wires.

Computer Cable and Extension cords were extra I had
Project Box, Connectors and Switch from Radio Shack
 

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Next I took and epoxyed the relay onto the project box and allowed to sit overnight. I connected the wires from the power cable and the outlet cable to the respective spots (see wiring diagram)

I wired a 12VDC transformer to the float switches as also shown in the wiring diagram.

Relay from Radio Shack
DC Transformer was an extra I had.
 

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Now the moment of truth. I powered it up and pluged in a lamp to check the floats were functioning.
 

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Time to build the rig. I measured all of the PVC and cut as shown. The verticle risers have holes drilled so water can enter the tube without problems. The lower riser is the normal operating float, the higher riser is if the lower riser ever stuck in the on position, it would break the circuit and prevent excess RO from entering the system.
 

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And the final assembly (completed this morning, the wires are going to be cleaned up soon!)

A Maxi-Jet 1200 is connected to the tubing into the sump (above the water level to prevent reverse syphon) and the line in is from the RO/DI unit.
 

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