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Old 09-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #21
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Angry

Should I start back at 600? Thats the only grit the the local auto supply place had. I've noticed that the original scratches are not even gone! It was so hazy I couldn't see, now that its clear I can see them, so basically everything I've done was for nothing, I am so scared to mess with it again, it took so long to get it somewhat clear again, but I hate for it to look like crap after ive spent so much time on it. The sander I'm using is a cheap ryobi palm sander from home depot. Same goes for buffer. Thanks, any input would help.

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Old 09-22-2012, 06:27 PM   #22
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800. If its 600 scratches. i cant tell just by the picture alone but i would start over with 800. Id Get more paper too. Find a place that carries more. When you sand it make sure you go over every inch multiple time. Two passes won't cut it. Ive never buffed acrylic. But i have buffed headlights and paint and the process is the same. the only difference is what grit you start with and Buffing compound used.

If its bothering you that much just walk away from it for a while then resume tomorrow or monday.
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Old 09-22-2012, 07:38 PM   #23
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It is a stretched octagon shape and it has 4 rounded corners, any recommendation about sanding that evenly w/ the rest of the tank? Thanks Lindsay
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:37 PM   #24
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You can sand the flat surfaces first and then do the corners. Run the sander side to side going with the contour. Dont go up and down. Follow the shape. Like you do when running your hands on it your hands follow the contours. The same with the sander follow the shape.
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:16 AM   #25
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I was watching that show "tanked" and I often see them buffing and polishing acrylic with a foam head on what appears to be a rotary wheel. I know for clear optics they are using some kind of buffing and polishing compound. What I see you have is a finishing and sealing compound. You have a step missing somewhere between final sanding and buffing. Is there a glass company or similar in your area? I am sure you are going to need a professional product that you won't find at Home Depot. I would hate to see you take so many steps forward only to take several steps back. I was suggesting the distilled water during sanding to make sure you have a nice and clean area to work and not grinding acrylic shavings into your finish. I will try to do some research for you on getting rid of these scratches.... I am sure there is an answer to your issue. Otherwise no one would ever want to work with acrylic.
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:07 AM   #26
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Thanks, I will see if I can contact an acrylic company. I filled with water today and it was pretty clear besides scratches and rounded corners. I can't feel the scratches so I tried novas again an that didn't work either. I am just so frustrated, all the hours I spent and it is still worse off than when I started.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:38 AM   #27
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U can use a handheld propane torch and very carefully heat it in sections and it will clear up a lot
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:27 AM   #28
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The Tanked place I was talking about is called ATM Aquatics. They are located in Las Vegas NV. They have a service department that sells products for acrylic aquariums. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #29
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Thanks, I got an acrylic scratch removal kit. I have to start over but it goes from 800 grit to 6000 grit. Then I will use novus. I will post pics when I'm done.
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Old 09-29-2012, 08:09 PM   #30
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Hey everyone,
Well I got the kit and it has done much better! I have almost finished front inside and out and just thought about, if I am going to paint the back would I still need to sand and buff it? Also, I just want some opinions. It is a stretched octagon shape so it has a long area that will definitely need to be painted but there are the angle side backs, what would you do if it was yours paint the whole back or just the very back and leave angled corner backs clear? Thanks.

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Old 09-29-2012, 09:09 PM   #31
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Good question. paint doesn't stick to unsanded surfaces. Not to well at least. But It might be alright for a tank.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:37 PM   #32
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Oh, I didn't mean for it to stick, I knew I need to sand it a little. I meant would the inside scratches show?
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:38 PM   #33
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I use toothpaste to polish out any marks/haziness in the windshield on my motorcycle, works like a charm.

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Old 09-30-2012, 12:31 PM   #34
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What king of toothpaste?
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:25 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindsay1718 View Post
What king of toothpaste?
Whatever is cheapest at Wal-Mart, nothing special. Most all tooth paste has a very mild abrasive just perfect for polishing clear acrylic.

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Old 10-01-2012, 12:18 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindsay1718
Hey everyone,
Well I got the kit and it has done much better! I have almost finished front inside and out and just thought about, if I am going to paint the back would I still need to sand and buff it? Also, I just want some opinions. It is a stretched octagon shape so it has a long area that will definitely need to be painted but there are the angle side backs, what would you do if it was yours paint the whole back or just the very back and leave angled corner backs clear? Thanks.

Lindsay
Anyone have suggestions?
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:42 PM   #37
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I'd buff everything then sand what is getting painted. The paint is going to be on the outside, right? If so the scratches on the inside might show.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:49 PM   #38
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and paint the back and angled back ends. that's what i would do.
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:45 PM   #39
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Yes, I was going to paint the outside. That's what I was thinking too. So I'll finish sanding all of inside and lightly sand outside back. Then paint the whole back. Anyone have tips for painting acrylic? What kind of paint and rollers? Also I am planning to paint filter equipment black any suggestions on types of spray paint to use?
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:21 PM   #40
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Krylon fusion spray can should work. Alot of people have used it before.
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