20 Gallon High

[Cooter]

Santa called and he said he was bringing a 20GH for Christmas

The tank is coming with a Coralife 65W PC 6700K, Liberty 150 filter, 25lbs of aquarium safe substrate, one bag approximately 25lbs of Eco-Complete, and a Jaeger heater. The LFS supplied the equipment based on a moderate planted tank for tropical community fish. I do not have any base figures for water, but am hoping to have it tested at 2 different LFS in the next couple of days for a base reading.

This is a project for my son and I, hopefully putting in a community tank of various sub-species of tetras (color for SWMBO) with a moderate planting. From what I have been able to glean from the web and this site, 3.25 wpg needs to have CO2 injection.

I need some advice as to what type of plants to start with, CO2 (kit preferred), and cycling questions.

1. Plants: I hoping to do some easy plants, fore, mid and background plants with a few decorations in the tank, like a ship wreck and/or driftwood.

2. CO2: Hagen makes a "natural" CO2 product which provides CO2 by yeast reaction. Is there a product out there that has the convience of bottled CO2 (like the 1lbs of propane)? Santa is unwilling to provide CO2 this year, but I might be able to spring for something that is not too expensive.

3. Cycling: I have read that a moderately planted tank is tough to cycle for a newbie (me) . The plants use the amonia, nitrite and nitrate, so that a cycle really does not happen. If I could get a link or more information regarding how to cycle a moderately planted tank, that would be terrific.

4. Test Kits: Is there one that is preferred over others and why?

If more information is required, please ask away and I will do my best to supply it.

 

[RoK]

I can't help much with some of the questions but cycling a planted tank should be just like cycling one without plants, I think. You could add the plants before or after the cycle, but the fish are best added after. You can get 100% ammonia, raw frozen shrimp, or use fish food to cycle the tank. The 100% ammonia way being the least messy and quickest.
The decorations are really up to you.
This is the test kit many of us here at AA use: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19383;category_id=2255
It doesn't come with a gh/kh test so you will have to buy that seperately, if you want it.
The Nutrafin Master kit seems like it has some extra good tests but it is more expensive and I'm not sure how accurate it is.

 

[rich311k]

Here is an article explaining how to fishless cycle: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=15

Ignore the saltwater part works for fresh as well. Using pure ammonia is the best way. Less of a mess. the shrmp can get smelly and ugly.

The hagen kit will work, you may want to get 2. An alternative is to do it yourself. It is an easy project and will cost you almost nothing.

I use the AP kit as well. A very nice product.

You can add the plants when you start the cycle they like ammonia they use it as fertilizer.

 

[Simpte]

If you plant heavy, add fish right away. Plants make the best biological filter available (who can argue with mother nature right?). Not familiar with the filter. I would add a lot of algae busting plants to start (anacharis, Hygrophilia, Watersprite, etc...) You can always remove them later after the tank has stabalized and replace with plants you want to keep. Planting heavy from the start is the key. As for a Co2 setup, its cheaper to buy a Co2 tank locally. Welding supply stores sell them and also do refills. A 5lb tank will last you awhile but if you have room get the 10 lb. Refills are cheap (~$12.00) for a 5 lb. For a regulator/solenoid/bubblecounter etc.. I like the JBJ all in one. The Milwaukee is approx the same but has an adjustable needle valve. Don't really need it. Its 6 in one hand, half a dozen in the other. Just a matter of preference. PH controllers are not needed IME. Just an $8.00 timer for the co2. I start my Co2 1 hr before the lights come on and it goes off 1 hr after lights out.

 

[malkore]

As Simpte points out, if you're going with high light, CO2 injection, and tons of plants from day 1, you don't have a traditional cycle. Plants are going to be able to use the ammonia from the fish as their nitrogen source.

I like Milwaukee regulators, as you get the solenoid valve with it, and a cheap lamp timer can extend your cO2 bottle by 50% or more...or you can get fancy with a pH controller.

I've heard more stories about JBJ's needing a warranty replacement than I have Milwaukee's. JBJ has a needle valve too, and a built in check valve...but no solenoid, and its a 'fixed output' regulator...which means it always pushes out 30psi (or so) to the needle valve, where the Milwaukee lets you adjust the psi to the needle valve.
Why is this important? Because if you ever wanna add a manifold so you can run several tanks off one CO2 setup, the Milwaukee's gonna accomodate the increased psi needed vs. the JBJ.

 

[Cooter]

Thanks for all of the input. I was curious as to how long the "cycle" will take with a moderate to highly planted tank? With plants absorbing some ammonia and nitrate, will the tank "cycle" as if doing a fishless cycle?

After much more research, not the end all of research, but more, can a DIY, or yeast reactor, produce enough CO2 for a 20G with 3+wpg? If so, is there a measurable way to determine what the concentration of CO2 entering the tank, based on measured parameters, ie: X ounces of yeast with Y liters of water and Z tablespoons of sugar, will result?

Do I need to start another thread in the planted forum to maintain OT status?