Planning a Planted Tank: many questions

[Blucat]

Currently I have a 24gallon tank with 2 x 20watt normal fluorescent lighting. I have 1 inch of normal aquarium gravel. The plants I've got are floating anubias, so their roots arnt in the substrate. The filtration is a sponge filter in the hood and a powerhead with sponge canisters. Current stocking: 4 praecox rainbows (neon), 4 black neon tetras, 4 glolight tetras, 4 botia sidthmunki (dwarf chain) 1 BN pleco.

I plan for enchindorus, java fern, cryptocoryne and anubias. I would want my tank to be densly planted in the end.

First thing I have to consider is my substrate. I've thought about changing to all sand but I didn't want the hassle of taking out the gravel etc... But I have heard about substrate layering. Could I say... layer some eco-complete on the gravel, and follow with top layer of sand? Oh gosh... just checked the latest price on eco-complete- $AU70 a bag! Also I need to consider that the substrate must be suitable for the pleco and the dwarf loaches. What can you recomend, with types and layering?

Next is lighting. My lighting is due for a change. There is not much variety in the way of lighting here. Eventually I would install CO2 but I need lighting that would be alright if CO2 was not put in place. I have 40 watts right now so thats a little under 2 watts per gallon. It seems to be working out alright. Any lighting types and wattage can you recomend?

CO2. I would eventually get this but maybe not for another year or so. I wouldnt go heavy planted until I get my CO2 of course. Would a DIY setup be good for my 24gal or something like a hagen system be better? Currently my powerhead is blowing the lounge room air into the tank, thus containing oxygen. In Australian summers, the water gets pretty hot so the lfs told me a constant flow of oxygen aeration would help cool it down. Would I need to remove the aeration when the CO2 is added in or keep it?

Fertilsers, I am hoping that I can go without adding fertilisers in every week, but if it is necessary then I will. I have too much phosphate in my tap water so whilst I have little plants I am using some phosphate absorbing filter media. This would have to be removed when plants come in right?

Sorry it is such a long post and alot of quesions but I have been thinking alot about a plan for a planted tank. Any advice appreciated

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

If you are going to layer substrate then consider using a laterite/sand mix for first 1", then just sand for the next 1".. sand on it's own is not good for plants, both due to the non-existant CEC (ability to store nutrients) and the amount that it compacts. you will need something to stir it up and having laterite in there will definately cloud the water.

Turface, Profile and other aquatic soils (consider going to a store that sells substrate for ponds, you'll often see some that are kiln fired clay, or calcified clay. they won't turn to mush and are cheaper then eco or flourite.

If your lights are T8 bulbs then you can consider the wattage 41% higher (40 x 141% = 56.4 / 24 is a moderate-high light tank (see thread in my sig.)

Co2 will help even at the lowest of light levels.

For ferts. one that you should definately consider would be K, it doesn't find it's way into the tank like NO3 or PO4.

Yes, you would have to remove as much surface aggitation as you can with Co2. the bubbles hitting the surface create aggitation.

There are alternatives to cooling, but you will find most are rather "out there" (like using a rad to cool the water)..

 

[Blucat]

Regarding the substrate, where does the aquatic soil fit in? Soil, layerite, then sand?

Sorry for my ignorance but what are T8 bulbs? And I would like to see the thread in your sig but I can't see your sig.

If I need to remove the aeration, could I then put the CO2 in through the venturi of my powerhead instead?

 

[azn_fishy55]

Yeah you can but the CO2 in the venturi of your powerhead.The Aquatic Soil like Profile are more of a very light gravel.There is no need for sand in the layered substrate,I say just put Profile aquasoil with some laterite in the bottom layer of the substrate.

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

T8 refers to the type of bulb, this one is easy to tell, is the bulb 1" in diameter, or 1.5 inches?

The aquatic soil, turface, profile are all calcified or fired clay. Essentially Flourite (or in some cases better then flourite) they are standalone and cost about 15$ for 50lbs.

 

[Blucat]

the bulb is 1"

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

T8 the 8 referes to 8/8's of an inch or 1 inch, a T12 is 12/8's of an inch or 1.5". T8 are far more efficient (41% more)

 

[Blucat]

I read about adding peat in the substrate.. my water is not very acidic has a ph of 8. What is the deal with peat? Pros.. any cons?

hmmm... done a bit of research on aquatic soils and the variety is not good, actually more like non-existant. my lfs only stocks gravel and sand, seeing as they use just gravel on their massive planted display tank.

I found another online shop selling eco-complete cheaper! You get a 9.2kg bag for AU$60, which equates about AU$6.4 a kilo. And you get free shipping.

what options are there to stir up sand? Snails won't last long with my loaches, but if its a hassle to stir it up i'll give sand the skip.

If I have eco-complete, I do not need layerite?

idea of substrate layers: please advise me if this substrate shows problems: i still need to consider where to add any other fertilisers if needed.
base - <1" gravel
eco-complete - 1 1/2"
sand - 1/2"

Thanks for helping, all those who have replied, esp Wizzard~Of~Ozz, you seem to answer my questions frequently...

 

[Wizzard~Of~Ozz]

here is a great list of what's good and what's not, which ones will cloud your water, not sure about the availability in Oz. but it gives you some choices

http://home.infinet.net/teban/jamie.htm

And, no probs, we all try to help where we can.

 

[Purrbox]

If you spend the cash for Eco Complete, Flourite, or any of the other plants substrates it needs to be at least 50% of your substrate or you are wasting your money. With these you would actually be much better off going 100% instead of mixing. Also keep in mind that no matter how careful you are, a layered substrate is bound to start mixing over time.

MTS have a harder shell than most snails and may or may not be able to survive the attensions of your louches. They are by far the easiest way to keep your sand mixed, but manual stirring is also possible.

 

[azn_fishy55]

I agree with Purrbox,if using one of the nutrient rich substrates like Eco or Flourite you will need to at least have 50% of it the whole substrate.You could have 2 in of Eco then an 1 in of regular gravel on top and some peat under the Eco.HTH

 

[Simpte]

You might be confused about adding peat (I know I would be from reading this thread). You don't need a lot, in fact, less than a handfull. You only want a very light dusting of peat. Not a layer. If you cannot see the glass then you added too much. Peat has its uses but not in a substrate scheme like you want.

 

[Blucat]

Yeh I will do 2" o f eco-complete because its needed. Thanks for alerting me!