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Old 09-18-2013, 12:48 PM   #1
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I Need Advice

Hi.

I am a new aquarium novice, with 54 litre tank, which holds a total of 23 fish, as follows:- x2 Rasbora Hrlequins.
x7 Neon Tetra.
x5 Lemon Tetra.
x6 Rosy Tetra.
x1 Panda Cory.
X1 Bronze Cory.
x1 Spotted Hoplo.

50 watt heater and Fluval U2, which I have a terrible habit in changing the 3 stages, as I do not know or have a clue which one to use.
Stage 1 - Oxygen / Filtration / Stage 2 - Spray Bar and Stage 3 Biomax.

My tank has the usual stoned gravel with 2 life like plants and 2 real plants set on bogwood.

Would some kind person, Please put my mind at rest, to provide me with sound advice, with when to switch light on during the day, Water changes,Feeding requirements, etc,etc.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:58 PM   #2
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here is what i do with my tank hope it helps

I will break this down in 3 sections lighting, feeding, and water changes.
lighting-
it is important as a fish owner to simulate what your fish would have in the wild. so if you have sunrise at 6am and a sunset at say 7pm that is where you would want to have it set at. to go on at 6am and off at 7pm. (you decided based on you location the times)I have a power cord that has tabs you push up on the dial. u have the arrow point to the time it is now. then you push up all the tabs between 6am and 7pm. this will give a good amount of lighting for plants and you don't have to worry about forgetting to turn off the lights. I would read the manual or ask the person you bought it from for help based on what you have.

feeding-
I feed my fish 2 times a day. 1 in the morning and 1 at night. I do this to prevent over feeding the fish. for my fish I feed them tubafix worms and algae wafers just 2 cubes and 2 wafers for 24-26 fish. it doesn't take much to make them happy. I would not want to use flake food based on it having a quicker time to rot in your tank and then it wont get eaten.

water changes-
base on the size of your tank you might want to do 20%-50% water changes 1-2 times a week. for my 40g I am doing it 1 time a week but the bigger the tank the less changes you need. you still need them though. smaller the tank the more ammonium and nitrate/nitrite builds up. all in all if you do the water changes right then you have it made. use a test strip or drop testers to check the parameters periodically and if you see they are not right then a water change is needed.
hope this helps P.S. if you get a chance you might want to get another Cory cause they like to stay in packs min 3-6+
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gifoli View Post
Hi.

I am a new aquarium novice, with 54 litre tank, which holds a total of 23 fish, as follows:- x2 Rasbora Hrlequins.
x7 Neon Tetra.
x5 Lemon Tetra.
x6 Rosy Tetra.
x1 Panda Cory.
X1 Bronze Cory.
x1 Spotted Hoplo.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your tank is very crowded at only 54 liters (slightly larger than 14 gallons for us in the US) with all those fish. maintaining water quality is going to be very difficult. I'd really consider reducing your bioload to maybe just two schools of 6 or so fish between the rasboras, neons, lemon tetras, and / or rosy tetras. (If I recall correctly, the rosies get pretty sizeable). Large and frequent water changes using a conditioner to remove chlorine are your best friend. IME, you can do as much as 50% per day without ill effect. I'd certainly do no less than 50% per week with your bioload. Match temperature and don't forget the chlorine remover!

Lighting for 10 to 12 hours a day using a timer is generally sufficient. Small frequent feedings are better than larger less frequent feedings. The food shouldn't last more than a minute in the water.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gifoli View Post
Hi.

I am a new aquarium novice, with 54 litre tank, which holds a total of 23 fish, as follows:- x2 Rasbora Hrlequins.
x7 Neon Tetra.
x5 Lemon Tetra.
x6 Rosy Tetra.
x1 Panda Cory.
X1 Bronze Cory.
x1 Spotted Hoplo.

50 watt heater and Fluval U2, which I have a terrible habit in changing the 3 stages, as I do not know or have a clue which one to use.
Stage 1 - Oxygen / Filtration / Stage 2 - Spray Bar and Stage 3 Biomax.

My tank has the usual stoned gravel with 2 life like plants and 2 real plants set on bogwood.

Would some kind person, Please put my mind at rest, to provide me with sound advice, with when to switch light on during the day, Water changes,Feeding requirements, etc,etc.

Hello and welcome!

The plants you have attached to driftwood are low light plants, so they don't need a lot of light. They are also slow growing, so if they have more than 8 hours of light each day you will probably end up with black beard algae growing on them (you DONT want that)

You have a LOT of fish in that tank, which means you will need to put a LOT more work into keeping the water clean.
I would suggest a MINIMUM of 20 litre water changes twice a week. More, and more often would be better and lower the risk of sickness and disease breaking out in your tank.
It is important that you do the water changes with a gravel vac and remove as much muck as you can.

I would feed once a day- you are already going to have a challenge on your hands to keep ammonia levels down with so many fish in a new (uncycled) tank. Pellets/granules are great, but if you don't have the tiny pellets, and your fish's mouths are too small for the ones you have, then you can use a top quality brand of flakes and crush them up a little.

The number one thing on your shopping list needs to be a test kit.
You will need to test for:

Ammonia
Nitrite
NitrAte
PH.

Your filter may not be adequate to cope with the bioload of your fish. How many gallons an hour is it rated at? I would suggest adding a second filter- either a HOB or canister so as not to take up room inside the tank.

Just for interest's sake I've googled the profiles of your fish for you
Don't hesitate to ask questions about anything or everything- there are a lot of helpful and experienced people here.

Hoplo profile:
http://www.planetcatfish.com/common/...?species_id=14

Bronze Cory profile:
http://www.planetcatfish.com/common/...?species_id=51

Panda Cory profile:
http://www.planetcatfish.com/common/...species_id=267

Lemon tetra profile:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species...pulchripinnis/

Rosy tetra profile:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species...ycon-rosaceus/

Neon tetra profile:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species...irodon-innesi/

Harlequin rasbora profile:
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species...-heteromorpha/
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:24 AM   #5
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Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rutrag View Post
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your tank is very crowded at only 54 liters (slightly larger than 14 gallons for us in the US) with all those fish. maintaining water quality is going to be very difficult. I'd really consider reducing your bioload to maybe just two schools of 6 or so fish between the rasboras, neons, lemon tetras, and / or rosy tetras. (If I recall correctly, the rosies get pretty sizeable). Large and frequent water changes using a conditioner to remove chlorine are your best friend. IME, you can do as much as 50% per day without ill effect. I'd certainly do no less than 50% per week with your bioload. Match temperature and don't forget the chlorine remover!

Lighting for 10 to 12 hours a day using a timer is generally sufficient. Small frequent feedings are better than larger less frequent feedings. The food shouldn't last more than a minute in the water.

Hi,

I hope you are well, and thank you for your sound advice.

I am a complete novice here, and now I have realized that keeping all those fish in my tank, has added extra work for me. I am very annoyed with my local aquatics store who informed me that keeping that amount of fish would be fine in a 54 litre tank. I have had this set up for two months now, but do worry on daily basis, that things will go wrong. To my Surprise. My brood of fish are doing well. I have changed my original Eihm 64 filter for a a FLUVAL U2 with 3 stage set up for Oxygen Filtration / Spray Bar for Plants and Biomax, which I keep changing on a daily basis. My problem is which setting to use for the amount of fish, I have. Does my fish require strong or medium circulation.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Cactuspixie View Post
Hello and welcome!

The plants you have attached to driftwood are low light plants, so they don't need a lot of light. They are also slow growing, so if they have more than 8 hours of light each day you will probably end up with black beard algae growing on them (you DONT want that)

You have a LOT of fish in that tank, which means you will need to put a LOT more work into keeping the water clean.
I would suggest a MINIMUM of 20 litre water changes twice a week. More, and more often would be better and lower the risk of sickness and disease breaking out in your tank.
It is important that you do the water changes with a gravel vac and remove as much muck as you can.

I would feed once a day- you are already going to have a challenge on your hands to keep ammonia levels down with so many fish in a new (uncycled) tank. Pellets/granules are great, but if you don't have the tiny pellets, and your fish's mouths are too small for the ones you have, then you can use a top quality brand of flakes and crush them up a little.

The number one thing on your shopping list needs to be a test kit.
You will need to test for:

Ammonia
Nitrite
NitrAte
PH.

Your filter may not be adequate to cope with the bioload of your fish. How many gallons an hour is it rated at? I would suggest adding a second filter- either a HOB or canister so as not to take up room inside the tank.

Just for interest's sake I've googled the profiles of your fish for you
Don't hesitate to ask questions about anything or everything- there are a lot of helpful and experienced people here.

Hoplo profile:
Megalechis thoracata • Callichthyidae • Cat-eLog

Bronze Cory profile:
Corydoras aeneus • Callichthyidae • Cat-eLog

Panda Cory profile:
Corydoras panda • Callichthyidae • Cat-eLog

Lemon tetra profile:
Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis (Lemon Tetra) — Seriously Fish

Rosy tetra profile:
Hyphessobrycon rosaceus (Rosy Tetra) — Seriously Fish

Neon tetra profile:
Paracheirodon innesi – Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon innesi, Cheirodon innesi) — Seriously Fish

Harlequin rasbora profile:
Trigonostigma heteromorpha – Harlequin (Rasbora heteromorpha) — Seriously Fish
Hi,

I hope you are well, and thank you for your sound advice and fish profiles.

I can say, as a complete novice. I do not know, if the fish I have are compatible with each other, and I am very annoyed with my local Aquatics store who were supposed to provide me with information, regarding set up for Do's and Don'ts.

I now have had this set up for 2 months, and my brood of fish are looking good, but they are now maturing into adults. I can say that I changed my internal filter for a FLUVAL U2 to improve the whole biological cycle. My problem is that I do not have a clue, on which stage setting to use.

Stage 1: Oxygen Filtration / Stage 2: Spray Bar cycle For Plants, and Stage 3 for Bottom Water Agitation.

I would be happy to hear from you again.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:41 AM   #7
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I'd have it turned all the way up. If you have the spray bar directing the flow across the surface you will get maximum aeration without blowing your fish around. Remember to never change your bio max- a rinse in the water you siphon out of the tank when you see any mulm building up is sufficient. It's important not to kill the bacteria that are colonizing it. You mentioned it being 3 stage- are the other two stages spong, charcoal or fliter fibre?

Edited as I just read your previous post.
So is it an under gravel filter that you are running? If so I would definitely add back the eheim.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:46 AM   #8
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Oops- is this your filter:


http://thereefshop.com.au/index.php?...oducts_id=1657
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:48 AM   #9
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Hi Cactuspixie,

Thank you for getting back to me so quick. The eheim filter was internal as my Fluval u2. again thank you for letting me know about the Biomax. The other 2 stages are sponge.

Regards,
Gifoli.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:07 AM   #10
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you should try go to aqadvisor.com it helped me by displaying messages of what to do and what fish are compatible with each other=)
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:17 AM   #11
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Thank you Krissycakes for the advice. I appreciate your input.
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:48 PM   #12
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If you have Hikari Micro Pellets (used to be called Micro Bites) where you live.

Amazon.com: Hikari Tropical Micro Pellets 45 Gm: Pet Supplies

These are great and don't screw up your water parameters as quickly, like flakes do (cause ammonia spikes). If your fishes mouthes are slightly smaller you can rub the pellets together in your fingers to make them smaller sized pieces. I find this size to be excellent for adult Tetras and I use it for smaller fish and crush them down some for their smaller mouths.

The Hikari Bottom Feeder wafers and the Algae wafers are great for Cories too. I like all their products. They don't cloud the water.

Feed the fish conservatively. I would take a normal amount and feed 1/2 am and pm (if you are home all day long you can divide one days food into 3 feedings if you find feeding the fish a fun thing to do, just don't feed full feedings 3x per day lol). You can give them a good variety of foods.

Uneaten food will wreak havoc on your water quality. It is a fact fish will eat even when they don't need to, always acting hungry.

Also 12 hours is a little long for the light. If you use a timer, just cut out/turn off the light for a 2-6 hour period in the middle of the day and have it come on when you are home, so you can see and enjoy them.

Dividing the photo period of light will interrupt the algae growth cycle from what my fish and aquarium plant book told me and since doing that I have a much lower issue with algae.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
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Smile Thank you

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Originally Posted by Autumnsky View Post
If you have Hikari Micro Pellets (used to be called Micro Bites) where you live.

Amazon.com: Hikari Tropical Micro Pellets 45 Gm: Pet Supplies

These are great and don't screw up your water parameters as quickly, like flakes do (cause ammonia spikes). If your fishes mouthes are slightly smaller you can rub the pellets together in your fingers to make them smaller sized pieces. I find this size to be excellent for adult Tetras and I use it for smaller fish and crush them down some for their smaller mouths.

The Hikari Bottom Feeder wafers and the Algae wafers are great for Cories too. I like all their products. They don't cloud the water.

Feed the fish conservatively. I would take a normal amount and feed 1/2 am and pm (if you are home all day long you can divide one days food into 3 feedings if you find feeding the fish a fun thing to do, just don't feed full feedings 3x per day lol). You can give them a good variety of foods.

Uneaten food will wreak havoc on your water quality. It is a fact fish will eat even when they don't need to, always acting hungry.

Also 12 hours is a little long for the light. If you use a timer, just cut out/turn off the light for a 2-6 hour period in the middle of the day and have it come on when you are home, so you can see and enjoy them.

Dividing the photo period of light will interrupt the algae growth cycle from what my fish and aquarium plant book told me and since doing that I have a much lower issue with algae.
Hi Autumnsky.

Thank you for your kind input.

I have checked these Hikari Micro Pellets, and will be purchasing later on today + wafers and algae wafers for my bottom Cory catfish. I will also be investing in a light switch timer, so I can enjoy, when i get home from work.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gifoli View Post
Hi Autumnsky.

Thank you for your kind input.

I have checked these Hikari Micro Pellets, and will be purchasing later on today + wafers and algae wafers for my bottom Cory catfish. I will also be investing in a light switch timer, so I can enjoy, when i get home from work.
Good, enjoying them is what is all about!

Just keep a check on the water quality to make sure they are doing good, and continue to! ( API master test kit is a great resource for that.)
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #15
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oh for the Corys one way to get them active in feeding is to take tubafix worm cubes and break them up. you can bury them in the sand or gravel you have in the bottom. its fun to watch them sift through and find the food. some are dainty about it others just make a big puff of food float around them XD.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:43 AM   #16
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Thriving 10 Gallon Tank

Hi Fish Lovers.

I now have added 4 Panda Cory Fish to my 10 Gallon Tank on top of 7 Neon Tetras, 5 Lemon Tetra, 6 Rosy Tetra, 2 Harlequin Raspbora, 1 Bronze Catfish, and 1 Hoplo spotted Catfish.

I am aware that everyone has there own theory with overstocking. But I do not seem to have any problem, as all the fish in my 10 gallon tank are thriving without any problems.
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gifoli View Post
Hi Fish Lovers.

I now have added 4 Panda Cory Fish to my 10 Gallon Tank on top of 7 Neon Tetras, 5 Lemon Tetra, 6 Rosy Tetra, 2 Harlequin Raspbora, 1 Bronze Catfish, and 1 Hoplo spotted Catfish.

I am aware that everyone has there own theory with overstocking. But I do not seem to have any problem, as all the fish in my 10 gallon tank are thriving without any problems.
It's one thing for them to thrive short term as juveniles in a 10g tank, but to honest, I think long term, you will find that all those fish won't do well as adults (I almost typed fully grown, but they may not reach their potential size)
Eg:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/stats...catfish1g.html
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:22 AM   #18
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It's one thing for them to thrive short term as juveniles in a 10g tank, but to honest, I think long term, you will find that all those fish won't do well as adults (I almost typed fully grown, but they may not reach their potential size)
Eg:
Hoplo catfish, Megalechis thoracata with tropical aquarium fish statistics, care and photos
Hi Cactuspixie.

Thank you for your kind advice.

I forgot to mention that fish are fully grown. Megalechus Thoracata(Spotted Hoplo Catfish) - 5 inches. Lemon,Neon and Rosy Tetras - 1.5 & 2 inches. Bronze Catfish - 2 inches and Harlequins - 1.5 inches.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:19 PM   #19
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weather they are fully grown or not your overstocked. look check out this website aqadvisor.com just to make sure my hunch is right.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:48 PM   #20
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They may appear to be fine, but if given the chance in a bigger tank, I think they would love it more. More room to stretch the fins=)
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