question about ro/di system

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pcdebb

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
682
Location
Brandon, FL
I recently got a new ro/do system from BRS and I've been putting it to some serious work. the incoming water is well water that obviously has alot of stuff being filtered out. the inline tds registers 4 on the "out" (from what I read that's normal?), my sediment filter is already quite brown. there's alot of iron or whatever in our well, sometimes you can smell it.

my question is, what is the normal life of the sediment filter? whatever it is, i'll be replacing it sooner. this is what mine looks like after about 50 gallons of product water

img20121114240253568.jpg


img20121114240228504.jpg
 
I was also thinking about an r/o d/i system. I also have well water. I have heard that i will need a special pump with well water. Is this true
 
Deb, the color of the sediment filter isn't too much of an issue in and of itself. You really need to determine if it is clogged. You can install a backflush kit and / or install an inline pressure gauge to help you make that determination. A clogging sediment filter will show a drop in pressure over time. One other thing you can do is make an eduacted guess as to whther or not the unit is producing at a reduced rate. I would be concerned if your TDS coming off the DI is at 4ppm. It may be that you ought to change the resin or possibly add another DI chamber. It could be that your incoming water is so high in TDS that the RO and DI aren't catching everything. Coming off the RO, the TDS should be no more than 90% of the source TDS (coming right off the well) and then coming off the DI should be no higher than 1 (and preferably 0).

DaleHauze, whether or not you need a booster pump is dependent on your water pressure. If the pressure coming out of your line is less than 40 psi, you definitely want a booster pump. You may want a booster pump if it's less than 60 psi.
 
Mine turned that brown after about 20 gallons of product water. Off the RO I'm reading between 11 and 16 ppm and off the DI is 0 ppm. My town has pretty rugged water lol...
 
this kit has the flush kit and a pressure gauge (this is a brand new kit from brs I just purchased on the latest group buy). I flush the membrane after each "session" and the pressure is usually around 40psi. our well does some weird things where you can hear the water pressure go up and down, so I sometimes see the pressure go up, but only for a few seconds. in the paperwork it says a low number on the out is normal, i forget the term they called it (creep something). I will shoot them an email to follow up. I have also thought about adding another DI chamber, wouldnt hurt. I will tell you what i'm getting is ALOT better than before. the tds out of the tap was crazy....

and I thought the booster was recommended if it was lower than the 40 i'm getting. I fill up my 3 gallon drinking jugs in about an hour or so
 
I was also thinking about an r/o d/i system. I also have well water. I have heard that i will need a special pump with well water. Is this true

I run mine and I am on a well. As long as your pressure is at or above the minumum pressure required to make the system work you wont need any extra pumps. Look at the specs for the system you want and compare that to your water pressure (assuming you have a pressure meter on your system).

If your water pressure is a bit low check your system to see if you can adjust it. Mine has an adjustment close to the well head.
 
Probably should measure the pressure at the tap. You are going to have pressure loss due to friction, and the distance the water travels from well to tap. I lose as much as 5 PSI from the city pressure to my tap(y)
 
I am seriously considering an ro filter for my sink. My tap water is a joke. Ammonia and lots of chemicals. I use prime which helps but my fancy goldfish have folded fins, curled fins, I'm not sure what ro to get. 3 stage 4 stage etc. any recommendations would help. It's a losing battle with the tap water. I do water changes once a week. Thanks
 
Depends on how much ya wanna spend. $200 will get you a nice 5 stage from BRS with an inline TDS meter and pressure gauge. That's what I got and am very happy with it.
 
I am not sure what a Tds meter does, I don't mind spend 200. Just as long as I won't have ammonia going into my tanks when I'm using prime to remove it. It's a losing battle. My PVC pipes are full of gunk. And right now I have no filter at all. Prime is good but my fish have or
 
Ro filter

I am not sure what a Tds meter does, I don't mind spend 200. Just as long as I won't have ammonia going into my tanks when I'm using prime to remove it. It's a losing battle. My PVC pipes are full of gunk. And right now I have no filter at all. Prime is good but my fish have problems. Does it go under the sink and easy to install? Thanks
 
Cbcrash said:
I am not sure what a Tds meter does, I don't mind spend 200. Just as long as I won't have ammonia going into my tanks when I'm using prime to remove it. It's a losing battle. My PVC pipes are full of gunk. And right now I have no filter at all. Prime is good but my fish have or

TDS = total dissolved solids. The inline meter basically tells you how much is coming into the filter and how much is going out after being filtered.
 
pcdebb said:
I've seen a few YouTube vids on under-sink installs that look painless

That's what I did. BRS has a valve that will install between the supply valve coming out of the wall and the flexible hose going to the faucet. Then I used a saddle fitting for the waste water tapped right into the drain line. Two screws in the wall under the sink in the cabinet to hold it up (optional) and you're all set. I just open the cabinet to get out the line when I need water.
 
Cbcrash said:
I am seriously considering an ro filter for my sink. My tap water is a joke. Ammonia and lots of chemicals. I use prime which helps but my fancy goldfish have folded fins, curled fins, I'm not sure what ro to get. 3 stage 4 stage etc. any recommendations would help. It's a losing battle with the tap water. I do water changes once a week. Thanks

Generally speaking, the more stages you have, the longer each filter lasts and the purer the water comes out. If you have ammonia in the tap, I think you'd need one made to handle chloramine. I'd get at least a 4 stage (sediment, carbon, RO, DI). A typical 5 stage adds another carbon block.
 
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Dunno but it's a BRS proprietary item, so when you're ready keep your eye out for a group buy on here and you can probably get about 10% off!
 
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