Need advice on Guppy breeding tank setup

[Delapool]

That is sad news

 

[Darkfalcon]

Do you know what might be the cause?? Temp or water parameters?

Sent from my vivo Y28 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Delapool]

Good question - have you tested water parameters recently and what readings did you get?

Also when you started the new filter did you use media from the old filter or run the two in parallel for several weeks so the tank didn't un-cycle (if such a word exists).

Mainly want to check your tank is firstly still cycled.

Then I'd check your water used for water changes (not sure how often and how much you are doing here). I'd run the same ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph and any other test you have so you know what the base line is for change water. That way if e.g. your tank ph or tap ph changes suddenly you can allow for this in water changes.

These are all just in case questions as I think you mentioned some ammonia was present.

Then would be to check daily temperature fluctuations. How bad is it and do fish look stressed at certain temps.

After that would be if there were any signs of disease on the fish, if it was gasping or sulking away before death, eating / schooling well + good belly / pooping ok. This would be to check for any infections.

So checks on water quality, checks for infections, checks if the fish was looking stressed after anything.

If all those are reasonable, then it may also be the quality of stock from the lfs. You might be better off with a local breeder if there are any in the area or swapping to a different fish. (tetras in my tank don't do very well over summer and I've pretty much given up).

Some thoughts anyways.


http://badmanstropicalfish.com/fish_palace/tropicalfish_disease_identification.html


http://www.fishnet.org/sick-fish-chart.htm

 

[Darkfalcon]

I see, I'd like to check the paraneters but I don't have such device. All I can do is to use some sort of paper (forgot the name) to test the ph (acid or not). Seems like I need to save up more for this device.

Oh and the guppy's breeding tank currently have no filters only air pump. That's why I've been hunting down those hang-on filters you mentioned with the right spec and the right price. I got one but used it for another breesing tank (for danio breeding tank because there are more fishes there than the guppy breeding tank). So I'm going to hunt for more.

Now I don't know what to buy first, the water para test device or the filters first....

Sent from my vivo Y28 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Delapool]

Imo I'd grab the filter and keep an eye on the fish - doing a water change if they look stressed or sulking.

If you do get a hob filter which has filter media cartridges the filter information will often say to replace alternate filter cartridges every month or something.

You don't need to do this. Just swish out in old tank water in a bucket during a water change instead to clean and re-use. Even washed under a tap it will keep some bacteria. I haven't bought filter cartridges for over a year doing this which saves a bit of money for other stuff.

 

[Darkfalcon]

Imo I'd grab the filter and keep an eye on the fish - doing a water change if they look stressed or sulking.

If you do get a hob filter which has filter media cartridges the filter information will often say to replace alternate filter cartridges every month or something.

You don't need to do this. Just swish out in old tank water in a bucket during a water change instead to clean and re-use. Even washed under a tap it will keep some bacteria. I haven't bought filter cartridges for over a year doing this which saves a bit of money for other stuff.

So I just need to wash the filter catridge with the old tank water and then put it back in to the filter? And then do a water change for the aquarium? 50% or 75%?

 

[Delapool]

Mostly I would suggest a water change weekly and between 30 to 50%. I would use a water conditioner like seachem prime which covers just about everything and is quite cheap (or hopefully so ). There are other water conditioner options so I would look for one that detoxifies chlorine and ammonia as well as any heavy metals.

The new water should be roughly the same temperature as the tank water and poured or hosed slowly in to allow it to gently mix.

Seachem. Prime

Yes, on the filter cartridge. A new filter cartridge will take a few weeks to start to build up a bacterial population so if you can get the existing cartridge fairly clean and re-use, it's much better for the tank as well.

 

[Darkfalcon]

Hmmm I don't have that prime product here in my nearest lfs, but I think I'll look for something similar. And 30% or 50%? Ok, but I usually do water changes when I'm cleaning the fish waste lying on the aquarium floor.

About doing it gently, I don't think I've done that lol. I just pour the water in almost rapidly (and to create bubbles as well, in other words to make the fishes get used to this treatment before black out comes. I usually do this to create bubbles when the electricity is down). Could this also cause stress?

 

[Delapool]

Hmmm I don't have that prime product here in my nearest lfs, but I think I'll look for something similar. And 30% or 50%? Ok, but I usually do water changes when I'm cleaning the fish waste lying on the aquarium floor.

About doing it gently, I don't think I've done that lol. I just pour the water in almost rapidly (and to create bubbles as well, in other words to make the fishes get used to this treatment before black out comes. I usually do this to create bubbles when the electricity is down). Could this also cause stress?

30 TO 50% is what I've settled on for a water change. More than that can be done but I've found can stress fish. Less than that can work but depends on stocking levels.

Prime is really the bench mark for water conditioners imo. A water conditioner which detoxifies ammonia would I think be helpful for you so hopefully your water conditioner does that.

A water test kit gives a guide to how much you should be changing. Some fish shops will test your water for you if yours may? But I think you mentioned you had ph strips (?) - what readings are you getting for that.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ou-get-started-with-your-aquarium-154837.html

Yes, pouring water in rapidly would be causing stress. You just need gentle water movement to circulate the water along the air / water interface.

I've left the tank power off overnight and the tank is still fine so as you may be ok, just don't over stock. Have the fish been gasping or gulping at the surface while power is out? If they are, then a water change will help or you could get fish like betas which can take in air as well.

I will usually have a single male in a 5 gallon but have bred them before as well (with a couple of extra tanks to keep males, females and fry separate).

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/anabantids2/p/betta.htm

 

[Darkfalcon]

30 TO 50% is what I've settled on for a water change. More than that can be done but I've found can stress fish. Less than that can work but depends on stocking levels.

Prime is really the bench mark for water conditioners imo. A water conditioner which detoxifies ammonia would I think be helpful for you so hopefully your water conditioner does that.

A water test kit gives a guide to how much you should be changing. Some fish shops will test your water for you if yours may? But I think you mentioned you had ph strips (?) - what readings are you getting for that.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ou-get-started-with-your-aquarium-154837.html

Yes, pouring water in rapidly would be causing stress. You just need gentle water movement to circulate the water along the air / water interface.

I've left the tank power off overnight and the tank is still fine so as you may be ok, just don't over stock. Have the fish been gasping or gulping at the surface while power is out? If they are, then a water change will help or you could get fish like betas which can take in air as well.

I will usually have a single male in a 5 gallon but have bred them before as well (with a couple of extra tanks to keep males, females and fry separate).

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/anabantids2/p/betta.htm

No, the lfs here won't test my water levels. And I haven't actually tried using the ph strips for this tank yet. Ran out of stock last month due to my heavily stocked community main tank. Lots of different fishes there so I must maintain the ph so that no one will die due to ph. But lately I've been fighting ammonia poisoning on that tank :/ how to cure it??

Sent from my vivo Y28 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Delapool]

Unfortunately there isn't any good immediate cure here.

A robust bacterial population will normally handle ammonia production, else water changes with water conditioners that detoxify ammonia (they will only work up to 24 to 48hrs after the water conditioner is dosed) will reduce ammonia to levels the fish can handle.

 

[Darkfalcon]

I see :'(

So what should I do to a fish who was poisoned by the ammonia?? (And probably near critical condition)

And how to make a good filtration system in this kind of aquarium filter (what should I put in there to increase the water filtration efficiency)

Sent from my vivo Y28 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Delapool]

I see :'(

So what should I do to a fish who was poisoned by the ammonia?? (And probably near critical condition)

And how to make a good filtration system in this kind of aquarium filter (what should I put in there to increase the water filtration efficiency)

Sent from my vivo Y28 using Aquarium Advice mobile app

These sorts of products below can be used to soak up ammonia and then recharged. I have one for if the cycled filter in the QT takes too many hits from meds. However you can't use much salt in tank then as a salt solution is used to recharge. See link below.

http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=547#.Vus6W0XCanM

In your case I would still spend the money on an API master FW test kit to remove the guess work.

Filtration systems work best as one section for biological filtration which isn't disturbed (eg ceramic bio-media although carbon could be used) with preceding mechanical filtration (eg plastic sponge which can be rinsed off). Filter wool may be used to polish the water as well.

It's really just variations on that. I have played around with mine. Many ways work - just don't disturb your section for biological filtration very often.

In the 1990's I used to use air-powered hob's with filter wool and carbon. These as you can imagine had slow flow rates but worked fine. The trouble was I didn't know about ammonia and would regularly throw the carbon and filter wool out all at once....

 

[Darkfalcon]

My guppy's belly color now changed. It used to be white and big but now has darker color in the middle (not spots, just darker color). I'll attach the pic later