Took the plunge, opinions?

[Mr. Limpet]

Technically the fish tank is hers lol.

That's how my first one started, 4+ years later and the Moors are now my responsibility (still her fish) and I'm setting up a 20g for fry from those same Moors (+ 1 Panda Fantail) in her room right now. But I like all aspects of aquaria so it's all good .

 

[madaboutshrimp]

That's how my first one started, 4+ years later and the Moors are now my responsibility (still her fish) and I'm setting up a 20g for fry from those same Moors (+ 1 Panda Fantail) in her room right now. But I like all aspects of aquaria so it's all good .

I just tell her we're *sharing* it. She still would rather do everything herself. I've got to do a pwc on the 10g tank tomorrow because the water is getting kind of dirty looking now that I've changed out the ugly walmart neon rock for leftover gravel from the 20g tank purchase. She got really mad when I told her I'd let her help but I was going to clean it. I guess I'm going to at least have to let her have a go at it...

 

[marchmaxima]

Don't stress yourself about finding the 'optimal' PH. The most important thing is stable PH. Using additives like PH Up/Down if you're starting out isn't recommended. Can cause much more harm than good.

Hobbyists tend to use PH altering to create conditions required for breeding but its only recommended if you know what you're doing.

Most fish will adapt to any PH. Just make sure that when you do get fish, make sure you acclimatize them properly. All else being equal, they will be just fine.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

Don't stress yourself about finding the 'optimal' PH. The most important thing is stable PH. Using additives like PH Up/Down if you're starting out isn't recommended. Can cause much more harm than good.

Hobbyists tend to use PH altering to create conditions required for breeding but its only recommended if you know what you're doing.

Most fish will adapt to any PH. Just make sure that when you do get fish, make sure you acclimatize them properly. All else being equal, they will be just fine.

I've just been using that Neutral Regulator but it's doing absolutely nothing for the ph levels...apparently in our area we have super high levels of carbonate or whatever its called in our water that makes it basically impossible to work with. My LFS sells freshwater for dirt cheap that is perfectly balanced...figure I'm in for yet another daily trip! After testing both tanks for ammonia, nitrites, etc, everything except ph was fine considering how new the tanks are(ammonia .25, everything else at 0...ph 8.2). After teaspoon after teaspoon of the neutral regulator and the ph not dropping below 7.6 I called the LFS who relayed the above info to me.

I know the perfect PH isn't so important but it just seems way too high, especially considering I already have fish(ugh...long story). I'd really like to get it in check now so that I don't feel like I'm stuck in this hole and no matter how hard I dig, I just can't get out. If I can get it at the proper levels I feel like I can maintain it...plus it'll be better for the fish.

Your post DOES make me feel better though...maybe I'll hold off on the pet store today and go on Monday instead.

 

[marchmaxima]

PH of 8.2 is on the high side but still should be fine for most fish to adapt to.

Trying to constantly change the PH may be causing your fish some unnecessary distress.

Is there another reason you are changing the PH? If not, I do suggest you don't worry about it.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

PH of 8.2 is on the high side but still should be fine for most fish to adapt to.

Trying to constantly change the PH may be causing your fish some unnecessary distress.

Is there another reason you are changing the PH? If not, I do suggest you don't worry about it.

Basically, I just want my fish to have the most comfortable home possible. I think what I'm going to start doing is just doing small water changes when needed(every day when the tanks start spiking ammonia) with the freshwater from the LFS and hopefully by doing that the ph will go down slowly, giving the fish time to adjust to the ph levels...so at some point the ph should end up in a good range.

 

[jetajockey]

It might be a good idea to invest in a r/o filter if you have issues with your water quality. Although 8.2 ph isn't the end all, I've got plants in buffered 8.2+ cichlid tanks.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

It might be a good idea to invest in a r/o filter if you have issues with your water quality. Although 8.2 ph isn't the end all, I've got plants in buffered 8.2+ cichlid tanks.

The R/O system is for my tap water, not the tank correct? I may look into that at some point but for now I've spent a lot of $$$ on the two small tanks I have and it's only been 2 weeks! I think for a while I'll just buy the special LFS water since it's about as dirt cheap as you can get.

I think my plants will be okay anyway, I bought pretty kill proof plants...Anacharis, Java Fern, Java Moss and Cryptocoryne were all recommended to me as being low light, hard to kill plants...I'm hoping they'll help the tank cycle go more smoothly...we'll see.

 

[Mr. Limpet]

The R/O system is for my tap water, not the tank correct? I may look into that at some point but for now I've spent a lot of $$$ on the two small tanks I have and it's only been 2 weeks! I think for a while I'll just buy the special LFS water since it's about as dirt cheap as you can get.

I think my plants will be okay anyway, I bought pretty kill proof plants...Anacharis, Java Fern, Java Moss and Cryptocoryne were all recommended to me as being low light, hard to kill plants...I'm hoping they'll help the tank cycle go more smoothly...we'll see.

RO|DI isn't the best idea for FW, as it takes to many needed nutrients out and can cause bigger issues. Now if you have a SW system it's a must from what I've learned.

 

[jetajockey]

Actually I was going to say if you mix R/O with tap at a set amount you'll still have enough trace for a consistent hardness.

Using r/o is like having a blank slate, so if you use it straight you'll have to supplement with trace minerals. But in this particular situation I don't see the necessity of using straight r/o, or really at all, but that's just me.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

Actually I was going to say if you mix R/O with tap at a set amount you'll still have enough trace for a consistent hardness.

Using r/o is like having a blank slate, so if you use it straight you'll have to supplement with trace minerals. But in this particular situation I don't see the necessity of using straight r/o, or really at all, but that's just me.

I doubt I'll mess with it. Seems kind of pricy for something that's not a necessity in my tank. I'll try out the fw at the lfs first.

 

[ldaniel]

There is a local "drinking" water co where I live. You can bring in a 5 gallon bucket and have it filled for $1.40 and that gets me through my weekly 25% water change. 5 gallon jug takes up a lot less space than 5 one gallon jugs. Maybe something to look into.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

There is a local "drinking" water co where I live. You can bring in a 5 gallon bucket and have it filled for $1.40 and that gets me through my weekly 25% water change. 5 gallon jug takes up a lot less space than 5 one gallon jugs. Maybe something to look into.

Thanks. That's what my LFS told me as well(they sell freshwater, .50 a gal). I'm still trying to work out the details of how much water I'm going to need(I've got a 10g and a 20g tank) for at least a few days time...since I'm still trying to get both tanks cycled and I don't live in the same city as the LFS(about a 20 min drive...and around here, that's a lot lol)...I'm trying to kind of figure out how many 5g buckets I need AND that will fit into the back of my vehicle.

Basically I'm just being indecisive...thinking maybe I just need to invest in prime or the acid buffer to go along with my neutral regulator that the LFS suggested.

 

[ldaniel]

I have something against adding chemicals into my tanks. especially ones that mess with the pH. Just a personal thing.
I would rather leave it for a day and see were everything falls.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

I have something against adding chemicals into my tanks. especially ones that mess with the pH. Just a personal thing.
I would rather leave it for a day and see were everything falls.

My tests every day have all been very steady... 0.25(or less) ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates and between 7.6-8.2 ph(mostly 8.2). I've just been adding the conditioners that remove chlorine etc to the water since we have VERY high chlorine content here. The higher ph has really been my only concern at this point but apparently most fish will grow accustomed to it so I'm not so worried about it now. I would rather get the freshwater from the LFS though so I don't have to mess with all this extra chemical.

 

[Mr. Limpet]

My tests every day have all been very steady... 0.25(or less) ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates and between 7.6-8.2 ph(mostly 8.2). I've just been adding the conditioners that remove chlorine etc to the water since we have VERY high chlorine content here. The higher ph has really been my only concern at this point but apparently most fish will grow accustomed to it so I'm not so worried about it now. I would rather get the freshwater from the LFS though so I don't have to mess with all this extra chemical.

This tank is still cycling (fishless?), right? I wouldn't mess with the pH during a cycle, mine has gone from 7.6->8.2->7.4 in a 24-36hr period during my cycle. It just happens and not much can be done, but once it's cycled and settles down and I'd highly recommend leaving it be. Using chems or even LFS water can cause swings in pH and once you have fish, that can kill just as quick as high ammo or no2.

 

[jetajockey]

Try testing your tap water after letting it sit overnight in aeration. It's probably well in range of acceptable ph level for whatever you are keeping.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

This tank is still cycling (fishless?), right? I wouldn't mess with the pH during a cycle, mine has gone from 7.6->8.2->7.4 in a 24-36hr period during my cycle. It just happens and not much can be done, but once it's cycled and settles down and I'd highly recommend leaving it be. Using chems or even LFS water can cause swings in pH and once you have fish, that can kill just as quick as high ammo or no2.

Unfortunately it's not fishless. I've quit messing with ph since after doing some research on my fish, 8.0 ph(which is what the last few tests have been on both tanks) is perfectly acceptable. The ammonia finally spiked today(.50) and I did a 75% water change, morning and evening. It kinda ticked the fish off but I'd rather have a p/o'd fish then let him suffer. Hopefully the spike means nitrite readings aren't far behind(and so on), I'll be glad to have this tank cycled.

 

[madaboutshrimp]

Try testing your tap water after letting it sit overnight in aeration. It's probably well in range of acceptable ph level for whatever you are keeping.

The tap water ph has been a pretty steady 8.0-8.2. After researching the fish, 8.0 seems acceptable so I'm going to leave it be. I've heard driftwood can actually lower the ph so I may invest in another one for my smaller tank at some point.

 

[Mr. Limpet]

Unfortunately it's not fishless. I've quit messing with ph since after doing some research on my fish, 8.0 ph(which is what the last few tests have been on both tanks) is perfectly acceptable. The ammonia finally spiked today(.50) and I did a 75% water change, morning and evening. It kinda ticked the fish off but I'd rather have a p/o'd fish then let him suffer. Hopefully the spike means nitrite readings aren't far behind(and so on), I'll be glad to have this tank cycled.

In that case, if you haven't seen it please read the article below for the sake of your fish.

I've done a lot of tests, trial & error (more errors that were trying lol) and getting the pH down was easy, making sure it was stable is the trick. I haven't given up, just got a bit busy building 2 or 3 systems at the same time . At some point I'll pull my notes out and try again.

I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?!