Ryan's Updated 54G Corner Tank

[MyanRan]

Thanks for the response guys. I keep my lights on 8 hours a day, from noon to 8. It is definitely pretty hard to scrape off. My nitrate levels are usually between 20-30 depending on how close to a water change I am. I don't test for Phosphates, although I certainly could buy a test kit.

 

[MyanRan]

Here's a little update:

It's unfortunate that even photobucket is distorting these images, my iPhone 5 took great pictures. The thing I'm trying to point out here is that look at how much of a difference the distance to the light makes for the plants! That Rotala Indica is lush, and the undersides are almost a red colour now! With a yellowish top. But, I had read on another post that someone else was having troubles with the lower leaves browning, and getting holes. My pic can't really show you, although on my phone I can zoom in and see it perfectly, but I have that same issue. I also heard it may not be a light issue?

 

[MyanRan]

Well, here's an update of the tank. I'm planning on moving things around now that everything is established. Any suggestions on placement? I'm most likely getting rid of the Anacharis and the Jungle Val. They just seem like too basic of a plant and I don't really have any interest in them anymore. Anybody know what the plant on the left is called? Some kind of Rotala? All the new growth is green due to the intensity of my lights. But the top growth is starting to get bronze in colour at the very tips of the plant. The Indica is colouring up nicely, what with being directly under the lights, and being quite tall now too.

 

[Rodeo one]

Tank looks good ! How about some Tiger Lily s? I love them ..... A lot!

 

[MyanRan]

I've definitely been considering getting one of them. They look awesome and would make a nice contrast with the other coloured plants.

 

[MyanRan]

As far as my new layout goes. You can use my FTS a few posts up for reference. I am thinking of moving the Alternanthera to the middle of the tank, directly below the light fixture. I believe this plant needs the most light, and I may also space the stems out a tiny bit more, to allow more light to the bottom leaves, which are turning green. I'm debating just trimming the red tops off the Alternanthera and planting them, then getting rid of the bottoms. Good idea, or bad idea? Will the new growth continue from the tip top of the plant? Then I'm thinking of trimming and moving the two Rotala species to opposite sides of the tank. The Anacharis and Jungle Val will not be included in the new layout. I'm thinking of having all of the Bacopa bunched in the back, similar to where it is now. What do you guys think?

 

[Rivercats]

Personally I wouldn't move the AR to the center of the tank because right now it's a focal point and you don't want them centered, they just don't look right. It is very natural for the bottom leaves to be alittle greener and your spacing is fine. If you space any further apart it will look odd as you will lose the 'grouping' effect. I would however cut the tops off and replant them to thicken the group up to make a bolder focal point.

The problem with the two rotala's are they are too similar in shape to be planted next to each other. I would move the one directly to the left of the AR over to the right of the AR. Then you can leave the other rotala species but actually plant them alittle closer together. You want the leaves on each stem to almost touch the leaves of the stems around them. This allows the grouping to look much fuller. Another thing is when you plant groups next to each other leave about 3/4-1" between each group so they not only have room to fill out but also to give a slight visual break between groupings. Then in your groupings you want to trim your stems slightly shorter in the front moving/cutting the stems behind those taller. You want your groups to be cut at an angle so you can see the tops of all the plants. I'll attach a link for you to look at the photo's so you can see what I'm talking about. Lastly I would take the DW and move it to where the open space is where the one rotalas used to be and try standing it up on it's end (you'd have to mess around with it) and almost right against the AR so the DW isn't directly centered. This will give more depth to the tank and also look less symmetrical as it does now with the rock and wood mirroring each other. In the space where the DW was I would put a Crypt Wendtii Red or Bronze to add alittle more color and to have a different type plant and leaf shape. You could also then get some small plants like Crypt Parva to use in the foreground in front of the rock. Just a few ideas.

 

[MyanRan]

Wow, thanks for all the advice! I'll try messing around with it this weekend, and see what happens.
EDIT: The only problem I see with moving the Indica to the right of the Alternanthera is that the filter has a pretty strong flow to that side.

 

[MyanRan]

This week's update is pretty big! Changing up a lot. The tank looks really barren right now. After moving some plants, and removing the Anacharis and Jungle Val, it's definitely more open. The plants just need time to fill in, and grow taller! Once they get taller I'll probably propogate them to boost the size of the groupings more. My Alternanthera doesn't look very good without the red tops on them . What do you guys think about the driftwood? Is that better placement? I think it still needs some adjusting.
Oh! And I just got an Aqueon Water Changer! Probably my best investment in the hobby yet

 

[MyanRan]

I measured my GH and KH levels. The KH is 8 and the GH is 12. These levels seem quite high from what I've read on other threads about GH and KH supposed to be 4. So my question is, should I take action? I bet this has something to do with my substrate being 2/3 gravel, and 1/3 crushed coral.

 

[Rivercats]

That means you have hard water with a lot of buffer. And yes, the crushed coral will keep your water that way. With it being part of your substrate your kind of stuck with it. Many plants will do just fine but some like Rotala Wallichii wouldn't make it in those readings. Even if you went to using straight RO water the coral will still raise it.

 

[MyanRan]

That means you have hard water with a lot of buffer. And yes, the crushed coral will keep your water that way. With it being part of your substrate your kind of stuck with it. Many plants will do just fine but some like Rotala Wallichii wouldn't make it in those readings. Even if you went to using straight RO water the coral will still raise it.

Will it affect the plants I currently have in a negative way?

 

[Rivercats]

If the plants are doing fine now then it's not a worry!

 

[MyanRan]

I have noticed holes in my plants leaves and some unhealthy looking leaves. I'm wondering what the cause of this is? My phosphates are 2 ppm. And I'm dosing my pps pro everyday, including liquid carbon dosing.

 

[MyanRan]

I was also wondering about getting an angelfish fo my tank... What do you guys think? Any kind in particular? Do I only get one? Will it go ok with my tetras?

 

[Rivercats]

If you get 1-3 angels with a body the size of a dime they will grow up around the smaller fish and should be okay. I wouldn't not suggest getting an angel who body size it larger than a quarter.

 

[Rivercats]

I have noticed holes in my plants leaves and some unhealthy looking leaves. I'm wondering what the cause of this is? My phosphates are 2 ppm. And I'm dosing my pps pro everyday, including liquid carbon dosing.

If they are pin holes that grow that indicates a potassium deficiency. Can you post a picture? Do you have any fish that could be causing them?

 

[MyanRan]

The Alternanthera is looking pretty nasty right now. Green, covered in holes, and yellow in some areas. The Rotala Indica looks pretty good. But in the spot the leaves are a little brown around the edges and don't look very good. Very tiny holes in some leaves, not many though. The lower section of the Rotala looks a lot worse but I can't get a picture of that.

 

[Rivercats]

That is odd if your dosing dry ferts. What are your current nitrate and phosphate readings?

Anyway what you can do is dose 1/8 teaspoon of the dry K2SO4 Potassium Sulfate directly into your tank and do this weekly after your WC. It won't help the messed up leaves but all new growth should be nice and stay hole free.

Then the next time you mix your phosphate and potassium solution add double the amount of potassium sulfate to it. I finally went to doing that in the 220g dosing bottle.

 

[MyanRan]

I'll test them right now, then do my weekly WC, and let you know what those readings are too.