Nitrite off the chart - advice needed

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Katrinag

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jun 13, 2013
Messages
96
Hello, this is my first post. I would like to explain what I have done so far so please bare with me. I have a 20 gal freshwater tank that is 6 weeks old. I added fish in a week after starting not realizing the cycle process that is necessary. I lost 1 honey gourami this past Sunday so I brought a water sample to the lps and my Nitrate, Nitrite and hardwater was off the chart. I started doing DWC and I think I have been overfeeding. The LPS suggested adding prime for the nitrites. My question is I am already using API stress coat, should I be using both? As of today the water sample is reading ammonia .5, nitrate 20 ppm, nitrite off the chart, ph 6.2. I am wondering if I am at the end of cycling or I need to start from the beginning. ALso I am using testing strips but will go and get the liquid test kit since reading the forums. I am using well water which is softened. I do have RO also and I started using 50/50 RO/Well. The temp of the in the tank is consistently at 76. Also should I worry about the hardwater? Thank you . I am really enjoying my new finned friends and really want to do this right.
 
Hello, this is my first post. I would like to explain what I have done so far so please bare with me. I have a 20 gal freshwater tank that is 6 weeks old. I added fish in a week after starting not realizing the cycle process that is necessary. I lost 1 honey gourami this past Sunday so I brought a water sample to the lps and my Nitrate, Nitrite and hardwater was off the chart. I started doing DWC and I think I have been overfeeding. The LPS suggested adding prime for the nitrites. My question is I am already using API stress coat, should I be using both? As of today the water sample is reading ammonia .5, nitrate 20 ppm, nitrite off the chart, ph 6.2. I am wondering if I am at the end of cycling or I need to start from the beginning. ALso I am using testing strips but will go and get the liquid test kit since reading the forums. I am using well water which is softened. I do have RO also and I started using 50/50 RO/Well. The temp of the in the tank is consistently at 76. Also should I worry about the hardwater? Thank you . I am really enjoying my new finned friends and really want to do this right.

Hi and welcome to AA!

Here are some helpful articles to get you started:

Guide to Starting a Freshwater Aquarium - Aquarium Advice
I just learned about cycling but I already have fish. What now?! - Aquarium Advice

Your tank is still in its cycling process so in order to keep your fish safe you will be needing to do A LOT of water changes. You will also need a liquid test kit as soon as possible (API Master test kit is what most people here use, pretty cheap on Amazon). Yay, fun! (y)

Prime will help neutralize the ammonia temporarily so you can just use that if you want, but really want you want to be doing is a big partial water change anytime the ammonia reads over .25. The articles should explain all of that, but others will soon be along to further answer your questions. Good luck! :)
 
What filter are you running?
You're either overfeeding or you're overstocked. How many fish you got in it?
Instead of prime or stress coat I would go with amquel plus. But if you already got the prime, go with that.

Do a couple large (80%) water changes back to back, that'll bring your nitrates down.
 
Fish In Tank Cycling

Hello New...

Your tank should be set up with filter, heater, lights, and float a plant like Anacharis in the water, it helps with the process. Use only hardy fish, like Guppies, Platys, White Clouds or Danios. You add a few small fish and the waste the fish produce starts the nitrogen cycle.

You need a reliable water testing kit, like one from API and test the water every day for ammonia and nitrite. When you have a positive test, remove and replace just 25 percent of the tank water with new tap water that's been treated with a chlorine and chloramine remover, like Prime.

When you have several daily tests that show no trace of either ammonia or nitrite, your tank is cycled. At this point you can add a few more fish and resume testing the water every day. Follow this procedure until you have the tank fully stocked.

B
 
Hello, this is my first post. I would like to explain what I have done so far so please bare with me. I have a 20 gal freshwater tank that is 6 weeks old. I added fish in a week after starting not realizing the cycle process that is necessary. I lost 1 honey gourami this past Sunday so I brought a water sample to the lps and my Nitrate, Nitrite and hardwater was off the chart. I started doing DWC and I think I have been overfeeding. The LPS suggested adding prime for the nitrites. My question is I am already using API stress coat, should I be using both? As of today the water sample is reading ammonia .5, nitrate 20 ppm, nitrite off the chart, ph 6.2. I am wondering if I am at the end of cycling or I need to start from the beginning. ALso I am using testing strips but will go and get the liquid test kit since reading the forums. I am using well water which is softened. I do have RO also and I started using 50/50 RO/Well. The temp of the in the tank is consistently at 76. Also should I worry about the hardwater? Thank you . I am really enjoying my new finned friends and really want to do this right.

High nitrItes 6 weeks in is not unusual & means you are moving along in your cycling process. Your Ph is rather low, mid-low 6's can cause a cycle to stall so if your nitrites are not moving then your cycle may have stalled. It is often suggested NOT to use softened water for fish tank, I don't the details of why but I believe it has to do partly with the lower Ph & salinity. Have you tested your source water? This will give you a baseline. The nitrites need to be lowered so you may need to do more than one water change in a day. I would ONLY use Prime.
 
Thank you, I have a biowheel 150 filter, heater, gravel, plastic and silk plants,decor. I think I was overfeeding. I do not think I am overstocked. I have 2 MM platys, 1 honey gourami, 2 ADF and 5 neon tetras. I have done a couple 50% water changes since I tested the water and have been doing a 20% the past 3 days. I will continue. When i use the prime do i just put it in to the entire tank for 20 gal or do I just go by the volume of the new water I am using?
 
You want to treat the whole 20 gallons if you're adding water straight to the tank.
 
Thank you, I have a biowheel 150 filter, heater, gravel, plastic and silk plants,decor. I think I was overfeeding. I do not think I am overstocked. I have 2 MM platys, 1 honey gourami, 2 ADF and 5 neon tetras. I have done a couple 50% water changes since I tested the water and have been doing a 20% the past 3 days. I will continue. When i use the prime do i just put it in to the entire tank for 20 gal or do I just go by the volume of the new water I am using?

If you are using buckets treat the water in the bucket for that amount if using a water changer treat for the full volume of the tank.
 
Thank you, I have a biowheel 150 filter, heater, gravel, plastic and silk plants,decor. I think I was overfeeding. I do not think I am overstocked. I have 2 MM platys, 1 honey gourami, 2 ADF and 5 neon tetras. I have done a couple 50% water changes since I tested the water and have been doing a 20% the past 3 days. I will continue. When i use the prime do i just put it in to the entire tank for 20 gal or do I just go by the volume of the new water I am using?


If you are changing water to decrease nitrites then I wouldn't do less than a 50% water change. If you have a nitrite level of 10ppm in you tank then a single 50% water change will bring it down to 5ppm. If you were doing 20% water changes it would take 3 separate water changes to get the nitrites down to the same level. If you did the same number of 50% water changes it would drop your nitrite level down to 1.25ppm. Aside from my saltwater tank, I don't even bother with a less than 50% water change anymore.
 
thank you all. How long do I wait to test the water after a water change?

Should I do anything to get the PH up, its at 6.2. Or will that happen naturally once I get the Nitrites in order?
 
Tank Cycling

thank you all. How long do I wait to test the water after a water change?

Should I do anything to get the PH up, its at 6.2. Or will that happen naturally once I get the Nitrites in order?

Hello again new...

If you cycle a tank with fish, you need to test the water daily for traces of ammonia and nitrite. The pH of the water isn't important unless you keep and breed rare fish. Most aquarium fish will adapt to most public water supplies or even well water. You just need to add a chlorine and chloramine remover.

If a test shows traces of the above forms of nitrogen, you must remove a quarter of the tank water. This will remove some of the toxins and get the water chemistry back into the "safe zone" for your fish.

Remember, the point of the nitrogen cycle is to grow the bacteria that feeds on the toxins, so they'll eventually keep the tank water pure for the fish. If you remove too much water, you take away the food for the bacteria and you delay the cycle. That's the reason for using very hardy fish in the beginning. They'll tolerate the poor water conditions.

B
 
Hi again, I have been doing 50% water changes the past 3 days. I got the API master test kit and also switched to only using Amquel Plus.

As of today my test results are 6.8 to 7.0 PH (the color is really close so I am not sure), 0 ppm Ammonia, I think 2 ppm Nitrite (again the color is really close so its hard to tell) and 0 ppm Nitrate.

The Nitrite is still really high. Should I do anything else or continue with the 50%
DWC?

Also am I ok only using Amquel plus?

Thank you
 
Hi again, I have been doing 50% water changes the past 3 days. I got the API master test kit and also switched to only using Amquel Plus.

As of today my test results are 6.8 to 7.0 PH (the color is really close so I am not sure), 0 ppm Ammonia, I think 2 ppm Nitrite (again the color is really close so its hard to tell) and 0 ppm Nitrate.

The Nitrite is still really high. Should I do anything else or continue with the 50%
DWC?

Also am I ok only using Amquel plus?

Thank you

I would do back to back 50% water changes today with an hour between them. Two should be okay, but if you really want to get the nitrite down a third wouldn't be a terrible idea.

The amquel plus is perfectly fine to use.
 
You can also add Seachem Prime to your tank to knock down nitrItes. I think it says to dose at 5 times the normal dosage for nitrIte emergencies. However, this will only cover the symptoms, not solve the problem.

Re: Your pH...keep a notebook of your test results each day so you can see how the pH tracks with the other readings. If the cycle looks to have stalled, you can try to add Neutral Regulator (follow instructions carefully) to nudge it up slowly. If your tap has low pH, you may need to use a product like that with each water change, to keep the pH in the tank from dropping over time.
 
You can also add Seachem Prime to your tank to knock down nitrItes. I think it says to dose at 5 times the normal dosage for nitrIte emergencies. However, this will only cover the symptoms, not solve the problem.

Re: Your pH...keep a notebook of your test results each day so you can see how the pH tracks with the other readings. If the cycle looks to have stalled, you can try to add Neutral Regulator (follow instructions carefully) to nudge it up slowly. If your tap has low pH, you may need to use a product like that with each water change, to keep the pH in the tank from dropping over time.

Thank you- can I add the prime in addition to the Amquel Plus?

I will check my tap for PH. I have been keeping a notebook and it has been going up slowly.
 
Honestly, I don't know what the safe combination of those two would be, as I only use Prime in all my tanks.

I would contact either Seachem or Kordon and ask.
 
I would be surprised if there were any interactions between those two. Most water conditioners use approximately the same ingredients at varying concentrations and they generally become inert within a few days.
 
i'm not concerned about interaction. I'm more concerned about overdosing the active ingredient, sodium thiosulfate.
 
I would do back to back 50% water changes today with an hour between them. Two should be okay, but if you really want to get the nitrite down a third wouldn't be a terrible idea.

The amquel plus is perfectly fine to use.

ok I did the 50% back to back water change and the Nitrites slightly dropped. My test results are now reading PH 7.2, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrites 1 ppm, Nitrate 0ppm.

Should I continue with the back to back WC?

Also I think one of my MM Platys has Dropsy .. very sad :( from what I am reading there is nothing I can do. My LFS said to add Aquarium salt but from what I read there is no cure.
 
ok I did the 50% back to back water change and the Nitrites slightly dropped. My test results are now reading PH 7.2, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrites 1 ppm, Nitrate 0ppm.

Should I continue with the back to back WC?

Also I think one of my MM Platys has Dropsy .. very sad :( from what I am reading there is nothing I can do. My LFS said to add Aquarium salt but from what I read there is no cure.

Sorry, I just got back from a backpacking trip. How are things going?
 
Back
Top Bottom