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That's probably a reasonable way to execute a command for each username. for i in /home/* ; do echo passwd -e `basename $i` ;done hmmm - when I do passwd -e to an account on my debian system I can't log in at all (using ssh). You might want to test its effect on your system before you hit...

Yeah - I guess "rof" didn't look cool enough. :) Try 'help if' and 'help for' in bash to get an explanation of those commands ('info bash' if you've got a few hours to kill). 'man test' or 'info test' will explain the many functions it can do.

"test -f" checks to see if $j is a file. This is to avoid trying to copy "." and ".." from /etc/skel. If you have any directories in /etc/skel that you want copied, then this will be a problem. And as bzbee said, the fi is end if (if spelled backwards). Before you change the echo's it is...

I have that kit, and I bought it for the same reason you described. It has the same reagents/color charts as the individual hagen tests, so it's not any less accurate than other test kits I've used. I think Bigals also sells the individual reagent refills too, so you can replace only what you...

Try this - for i in /home/* ; do (for j in /etc/skel/.* ; do if test -f $j;then echo $j $i;echo `basename $i` $i/`basename $j`;fi;done);done if it looks right to you, then change the first echo to cp, and the second echo to chown

You can't copy the files at all or you want to copy them all at once?

http://www.rexgrigg.com/pg1.htm

Maybe something in the sand? If it's from the LFS you'd think it'd be OK, but you never know. I think I'd be skeptical of the pH reading until I tested it myself. If I used a decent test kit to measure someone's pH I don't think I'd tell them "6ish" was the result. ;) I know my LFS uses test...

"6ish" pH might be the cause itself - if it is really near 6 that's well off the preferred range for GF. http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/articles_details.php?article_id=60&category=12&name=Water%20Quality First, if the pH is too low, a condition within the fish called "Acidosis" results...

Here is a link that explains how to measure your CO2: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm I have no direct experience, but I think you are asking for trouble to put CO2 into a tank with that low KH. Sorry but I have to run to work now, see the following for more...

Whatever it is set to now is probably right :) I think in most cases a stable temperature is more important than the "right" temperature. And with that many different kinds of fish I can't imagine there is a "right" temperature for all of them.

I just picked up a blue gourami from my lfs, and while patiently letting the temperature equalize before starting to acclimate him, I figured why not test the water from the bag. It's pretty bad when testing someone elses water seems like a good way to kill some time :oops: Anyway, here's...

5ppm nitrite is pretty bad - if the fish doesn't seem stressed I wouldn't panic, but 25 to 50% water changes would probably be a good idea for a few days to see if you can get that level down. I think I've seen one or two of the ammo-lock type chemicals that claim to handle nitrite also, but...

I think mattrox is right - between the 100% substrate change and 85% water change (if I read your post right), I'd say you probably upset your biofilter just a bit. :) If your filter was not running for a few hours while you did all that work on your tank it may have upset the bacteria in there...

I'd wait at least a half hour to an hour after a pwc before testing, but that is just to make sure the new water is fully mixed with the old. In general you should test the water whenever you want/need to know what is in there. The pwc will only affect your readings by the percentage of the...

I'll second the recommendations for bristlenose and rubberlip plecos - I've had both and they did a great job on most forms of algae. Not technically a pleco, but you might also consider otocinclus - they are very small (2" max) but eat lots of algae.

Maybe I'm just overcautious, but I think I'd take the extra 15 minutes to take the gravel out too. These tanks are designed to take weight when they are evenly supported around their entire edge - carrying them by hand you are going to support them unevenly and put all kinds of stresses on the...

I'd believe your thermometers, especially if you've used two and they agree with each other. One of my heaters (Rena Top Light) is set to 70F and is maintaining 79F in its tank. Luckily I found out before I added the fish - first morning I checked the temperature in the tank was 88F. Turned...

10 neons x 1.5" = 15" fish in 10G, well above the 1" per gallon rule of thumb. Add in your guppies and cory and you're above 2" per gallon. Neons being a schooling fish I don't think there would be a problem with crowding, so really its a question of the water quality. If you are willing to...

Full spectrum in the 6,000K to 10,000K range are generally considered best for plants AFAIK. Within that color range its really a matter of preference.

This article: http://aquanic.org/publicat/usda_rac/efs/srac/476fs.pdf Is about the best I've seen on ich - it spells out the different treatment options and is geared toward commercial fish operations. I think most of the other articles I've seen posted on ich are more or less derived from...

I wish I had a sub big enough to keep a 500G on top of it :)

I believe you have read correctly - the last thing your fish need if they are stressed and dying is for you to start chasing some magic pH value. Was that 0.25ppm ammonia before or after the 80% water change? If it was after then you had over 1ppm before, which at a pH of 8 is deadly. Maybe...

My personal theory is that neon tetras take it upon themselves to prevent overstocking your tank. In other words if you put too many in they will die until the tank is no longer overstocked. Ten neon tetras by themselves in a 10G would be overstocked IMO, and with your other fish I think you...