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The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
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Update, almost done
The flash made some of the pics appear redish, but it's more brown in
person.
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/one.jpg
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/two.jpg
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/three.jpg
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/four.jpg
1x4s are easier to work with because they are generally a much higher grade.
The pine I used is select grade Radiata pine from New Zealand and has 0 knots.
When you start out with square wood, it's going to be easier to get a finished cabinet that is square and true.
I was really lacking time...
This would be a better option:
Finnex 300W Titanium Heater with HC810 Digital Controller - AquaCave
Not that much more than the m200 and would provide a better overall experience with the external controller.
I have found that the titanium heaters radiate the heat much better than the glass...
A lot less that 400 dollars :-) (which a nice stand from the LFS would cost)
The wood is from Menards and is the select grade pine 1x4s. I have not added up the receipts, but it's less than 100. It's taken a fair amount of time to create this though.
It would have been far easier to...
Everything is pocket screwed as well as glued, so the standard carpenters glue is fine, it will also be well coated on the inside and out with poly.
Gorilla glue is not good for wood joints because it expands big time while it cures. You would have to soak cured carpenters glue for a long...
Thanks :-)
I agree, hardwood like oak is nicer, but the cost for oak is double the cost for the pine and the clincher was the pine was completely knot free.
The biggest con is the softness of the wood when something hits it. You don't have to worry about strength, the compression strength for...
Been working on this for about a week or so now in my spare time.
The back is stapled on 1/4 inch pine plywood finish sanded one side.
Top is 1/2 inch one side sanded pine plywood.
Bottom shelf is 3/4 inch plywood.
The rest is 1x4 select pine boards from Menards. The top trim is a routed...
Biggest problem I see with your design is you have all the weight on the fasteners and glue.
You can easily modify what you have to make it much stronger, see these pics of the stand I built:
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/aq_stand%20001.JPG
http://www.amsoftwaredesign.com/aq_stand%20003.JPG...
Looks good, except you may want to add some more supports as it looks like the entire weight is being supported by the screws.
Screws have a low shear point. If you glued it, you should be ok though.
Snorkel
You won't have any problems, I was just at the LFS and there where several All-Glass stands with tanks that had large spans of unsupported edge on the back of the stand, a small gap like what you are talking about is nothing.
I moved a 37 gallon with those sliders, but I drained it down so only about 5 to 6 inches of water was in the tank. I then gently picked up each end and my helper slid the sliders under. Worked great and no damage to the tank.
Just don't try it when it's full.
Anyone know what this white junk in my hoses is?
I setup a new classic canister(old one was still running) and after about a month the inside of the outlet hose was covered with white stuff, if I pinched the hose a bunch of white particles would come out.
I tore down the filter and roto rooted...
Check out Red Flint Sand and gravel at:
www.redflint.com
You can get it at most sand blasting and filter supply places.
I get mine at Garnet Sand Blasting and Filter supply in Milwaukee.
you can get it in just about any size. I got 200 pounds of .80 sand which is like a fine micro gravel for...
You absolutely do not need any brackets, you just have to glue and toenail everthing with 3 inch deck screws, I have a 75 gallon sitting on one right now that I just glued and toenailed the legs to the top and bottom frames.
Because the frames are sitting on top of the legs a toenailed deck...