40g planted

[Jason the Lost]

Testing the planted tank.

What if anything is there I should test for regularly in a planted tank that I wouldn’t normally test in an unplanted. 55 gallon, 80w, low light plants.

 

[Jchillin]

Just on the surface, you should test for NO3 (keep at 20ppm) and PO4 (of at least 1ppm).

 

[Toirtis]

Hornwort, anacharis would both be good, and grow fast enough to have a chance againt the turtle's nibbling. For the basking area (so long as there is plenty of open, bare space and easy access with no plants on it), they some hostas or Pothos.

 

[Apocalypse_Gold]

Hashbaz is trying to cheat and use the surface area of contact as a regulator-balance diffusion with uptake-so that at night when co2 levels increase, diffusion will drop and the bell will overflow (or underflow ). The hope is to avoid pH swings. Or at least that is what he told me he was trying to do (we are bro's--see my dying java fern thread).

 

[czcz]

hashbaz,

I believe since concentration is far from saturation, diffusion of CO2 should be close enough to constant for our purposes, assuming the other variables you've listed are constant. I've only taken the general chemistry series (years ago), though, and I'm pretty sure you're way past that in your studies. Why does concentration affect absorbtion rate when the solution is unsaturated? Is it a pressure thing? Thanks.

 

[czcz]

Schultz is inert, and so I don't think it has the organic matter of clay you'd pull from your backyard (check out Xzap's submerged planters in the archives) or soils. Add some root tabs to start it off if you're growing root feeders. It has high CEC so can pull nutrients from the water column and keep it available for plant roots. Eventually I think the sand will settle below Schultz, and some gravel to add weight will save a lot of headaches if you want to grow stem plants or a carpet, as the substrate is very lightweight.

Discussion on the krib you may find helpful: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Fertilizer/profile.html

HTH

 

[mrsmarsig]

Plants can overcome some deficiencies, but not enough light isn't one of them. So I don't think fertilizer will help...sorry, but I think the problem is probably lack of light.

If your aquarium came with a hood and single bulb, you can buy a plain glass top and a dual light strip to solve your problem.

Good luck and stick with it and you will eventually get an awesome looking tank.

 

[jrp1588]

I agree that it's probably the light, but it's odd that they started to die after you cleaned out the tank. Who knows, maybe they were already on their way down and that put them over the edge.

 

[mr funktastic]

what kind of plants are they? thats the biggest thing. i have a 15 watt light in my 20 gallon and my plants are growing quite nicely. i am growing giant hygro and some other plant that i have no idea what it is. i dont use fertilizer or c02 injection and they still grow fine.

 

[Lepomis]

I came across a site that had rough estimates of what surface area a diffusor should have based upon tank size. I can't find it now but will keep looking.

 

[RubixCube]

I have 2 36" Coralife 10,000k Superdaylight t12 bulbs

here is a write up about it.

10,000K Fluorescent Lamp

The Coralife 10,000K High-Intensity Purified Super Daylight with Rare Earth Color Enhancing Phosphors lamp simulates the midday tropical sun. Its sparkling blue-white daylight rays and bright, high-intensity output allow for fish, coral and macroalgae to thrive in its glow. Ideal for use with all aquarium applications. Available in 18", 24", 36" and 48" sizes

 

[rich311k]

How many watts are they? I think they are 95 just want to be sure.

 

[Jchillin]

I'm sorry, but that information does not address your wattage. You can look at the bulbs to see what wattage they are.

 

[TankGirl]

I like Malkore's idea - that would work well - but I wonder what filter you are using on the 5gal? I'd bet even if it is the Azoo you could run those bubbles through the intake somehow.

That said, in your shoes I'd go back to the tried and true Hagen ladder, rather than try the Red Sea route again.

 

[TankGirl]

These bulbs are almost definitely 30w, so this is a very low light tank but the sword might have a fighting chance. I don't know if you have other plants that are doing well, but in this tank you should have luck with java fern, java moss, Anubias sp. and Crypto sp.

Edit: CO2 is likely not going to fix the problem, unless these are not 30w bulbs.

 

[Hoovercat]

Normal output 36" coralife bulbs are 30 watts ea. On a 48 gal tank that's 1.25wpg which should work for low light plants but won't be easy with your chosen species. If you'll add some root tabs, another bulb or two, and some DIY CO2 your swords will grow so big you'll be pruning them back to your LFS in 6 mo. to a year.

 

[TankGirl]

I think enough people have been dissatisfied with the efficiency of a bell to ditch it in favor of a myriad other methods - that is a big clue. My guess is that you'll be similarly dissatisfied and be searching for another method in short time, which, in the long run, is not cost-effective.

To reiterate Malkore's comment, what kind of filtration do you have, and can you use that to diffuse your CO2? It is free and from my own experience it works like a charm, even in an HOB. One less unsightly gadget to hide behind lush plant growth, lol!

 

[rich311k]

A liitle help

Is there a higher light plant I could attach to my rockwork? Anubias do not work in my tank. I have to muh light.

 

[travis simonson]

You've always got the Java fern, Riccia, and miscellaneous moss options, but I'm sure that isn't exactly news I've had luck growing Cryptocoryne wendtii variants on my rocks in small pockets with a little substrate crammed in. I'm not even sure that the Crypts need the substrate because they have sure latched onto the rocks with their roots. There's no way I could remove them now without tearing them completely apart. I've also seen people who've had luck getting Glosso to attach to rocks and wood but I've never tried it myself. I think it's worth some experimenting if you've got the time. Who knows what you might get to grow

 

[hashbaz]

hashbaz,

I believe since concentration is far from saturation, diffusion of CO2 should be close enough to constant for our purposes, assuming the other variables you've listed are constant. I've only taken the general chemistry series (years ago), though, and I'm pretty sure you're way past that in your studies. Why does concentration affect absorbtion rate when the solution is unsaturated? Is it a pressure thing? Thanks.

I too have only taken the general chemistry series. - And have forgotten most of it. I could be wrong but I assumed that absorption rates would decrease slowly (as concentration rises), until it reaches saturation - where the absorption rate would reach zero. But like you said, we are so far from saturation that the absorption rate probably would not have changed enough to make a difference.

Is it a pressure thing? Thanks.

I am guessing it is a pressure thing.

As to to the HOB option: I do have a Aqua Clear, so it is an option. But a bell system seems less prone to problems.

Thanks all!