Algae problems 55g

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KH is now a 4, ph was 6.8 at height of co2 yesterday, 7.6 this morning. Awesome! But....

Ammonia was at 2ppm this morning!!! I am guessing the low ph must have had more of an effect on my bacteria than I thought. my canister doesn't seem to be keeping up now that I removed the algae (and bacteria) from the gravel and rocks. Oh well. I'll keep monitoring it. Nitrites are still zero and nitrates are on the rise, so it's still doing something.
 
KH is now a 4, ph was 6.8 at height of co2 yesterday, 7.6 this morning. Awesome! But....



Ammonia was at 2ppm this morning!!! I am guessing the low ph must have had more of an effect on my bacteria than I thought. my canister doesn't seem to be keeping up now that I removed the algae (and bacteria) from the gravel and rocks. Oh well. I'll keep monitoring it. Nitrites are still zero and nitrates are on the rise, so it's still doing something.


Don't forget also that your bacteria were also probably depleted due to the low ph and kh. They are probably just getting back on their feet.

2ppm is quite high. I trust you have taken measures to get that under control for the fishes sake?


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Not really. Just dosed a little prime as I heard that will make the ammonia less toxic. I checked the level again just now and it looks like it's at a 1 (12 hours later). Was planning to do a pwc tomorrow anyway before my new amano shrimpies arrive.

Also noticed any plants leftover from my original setup are melting. I probably had them soaking in the excel solution too long. I removed any dying leaves/stems. Hopefully some will come back.


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Things look REALLY good. No sign of algae, it's been about a week.

I suppose completely rebuilding the tank is an easy way out. How do you win the war against algae?! In the end, The algae is gone, I suppose this is still a win. AND, I got a chance to rescape.

Thanks everyone for your help! :dance:
 
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You beat algae by correcting the cause then removing it from the tank.

I've not quite won the war yet. I have won the war on BBA but now having trouble with blue/green algae which is not technically an algae. I could kill it by blackout or antibiotics but without addressing the underlying issues it will just return, therefore I am trying to figure out what is causing it. Then I will remove it.

Congrats on your new algae free scape.


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Well, diatoms are coming back with vengeance.
ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1463700092.936944.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1463700104.309962.jpg

This is about two days growth. I'm not seeing it on any plants yet- it is primarily only on the glass.

Photoperiod is 8 hours. I have increased lighting since last post. par is 50-60 depending on location.
No sign of any green algae or bba. Ph issues have been corrected.
I do not have a phosphate or silicate test kit. As my tank is under stocked, I have a lot of plants and I recently boiled my gravel, I expect phosphates are not the cause.

I've been thinking about this and it's quite possible the local city water has a lot of silicate. City water quality report doesn't mention it at all, but the diatoms first appeared after I moved here. I'm in Portland, Maine- I'm near the ocean. I've never seen so many diatoms since coming here. Every surface in my canister filter was brown.

Has anyone had any success with seachem PhosGuard? How does this work in a planted tank with dry ferts?

http://www.seachem.com/phosguard.php



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The diatoms don't look bad to be honest. Not sure what causes them but it's not phosphates. Otherwise my tank would be overrun with it. Silicates possibly. I am a phosphate proponent. I do GLA dry ferts and typically triple dose the phosphate. In my setup this mix keeps the green spot algae at bay. Phosphate is one of the components of the macro mix. It is packaged separately so you adjust the amount.


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My mistake about the phosphates- I guess I've been thinking about this too hard. It rapidly grows back and will reappear in the same area within 48 hours.

It doesn't look bad because I clean it every day!! It easily comes off with a brush. I use a toothbrush and hold the gravel vac over the spot. I took that picture yesterday, then cleaned the area. I was not able to locate any more diatoms last night. Tonight, it looks very similar to those photos, but in another part of my tank. I don't get it. Everyday, it's back. Tonight I also see a little on one of my rocks- so it is getting worse. I suspect glass is easier for it to adhere to.

I'm also doing weekly EI water changes. I could very well be introducing fresh silicate with each one.

PhosGuard description says "not for the phosphate buffered aquarium". I'm assuming because not only does it remove silicate from the water column, it removes my phosphates.





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Did you restart this tank not long ago? I believe silicates commonly appear in newly setup tanks. Maybe they will burn out?

Have you checked for ammonia? Some ppl say they are caused by ammonia.


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I did recently restart this tank. It is true diatoms are a normal part of the initial setup of an aquarium. However, this tank has been fully cycled for 4 weeks now- no ammonia/nitrite is present.

Sorry for the long post, but I've done a lot of research on diatoms and this was one of the most informative articles out there, from oscarfish.com:
After the initial stages, when the aquarium is cycled, diatoms and brown algae should not reappear. If they do, there is something wrong with the water chemistry.

Many water sources contain silicates or silicic acid, or compounds that contain these elements and these compounds eventually break down, adding silicates and silicic acid to your aquarium's water.

These silicate compounds then start building up in your tank's water since nothing is removing them, unless you actually take some measures to prevent them from doing so. When they build up to sufficient levels or concentrations, brown algae start to appear in patches first (often on the glass or acrylic panes of the tank). Mind you the patches can be hard, filamentous, slimy and can take on various other forms, depending on which particular diatom is growing in the tank.

Many hobbyists are under the impression that using reverse osmosis water or deionized water will solve the problem, and that doing so will remove the silicates and silicic acid from that water. This is, unfortunately, not the case. Such units, even if combined, will remove silicate and silicic acid for a very short period of time only and, then, the silicate and silicic acid will get through the membrane and the resins and will start to build up in the tank.

By a short period of time I mean in a matter of days, depending on how much silicate and silicic acid the water you are treating actually contains. Tests have shown that, when treating water with 14 ppm of silicate, the silicate and silicic acid came through the membrane and the resins used in combination with the R.O. unit, after less than 100 gallons of water had passed through the filtration set-up (lab. notes ref. 95/6/-012)

This is really not much water when you consider that most hobbyists believe that using reverse osmosis, deionization or a combination of both, gives them water quality of very high purity levels. Obviously this is not so, and that belief is a totally false one”. R.O. and D.I. remove silicates and silicic acid for “some” time” only, after which the membrane of the reverse osmosis filter and the resins in the deionizers let the compounds through.

The conclusion to draw from this is that, regardless of how you filter your water, silicates and silicic acid will find their way into your aquarium's water, and you are going to have to take steps to remove it. This is discussed in the next section for both the water in the tank and the raw water. If you do not, diatoms will appear in your tank.

How do you remove these compounds?

First of all, we need to take into account that two sources of water need to be treated.

  • The water already IN the aquarium
  • The water used to perform water changes, I refer to this as the raw water.

Treating the water already in the tank:

This is very simply done by using a silicate removing compounds and ensuring that all the water in the tank flows through the compound on a continuous basis and that good contact between the water and the compounds exists so they can effectively and efficiently deplete the water passing through them of silicate and silicic acid.

To ensure that this happens, the silicate removing compounds needs to be positioned in such a manner in the general aquarium water flow that all that water will indeed flow through it and not just over and by it. To ensure this, you must carefully look at what the best place will be in your particular case and filtration set up. There may be several possibilities. Pick the one where you estimate that the water will come into maximum contact with the silicate removing compounds as this will ensure better and more efficient removal of the unwanted “nutrients” for diatoms.

If the water does not come into proper contact with the silicate removing compounds, the silicates and silicic acid will not be properly, or entirely, removed from the water. If the silicate and silicic acid are not removed, they will build up and, soon, diatoms will appear in the aquarium.

If this is the case, you have obviously not achieved your goal and you have under utilized the efficiency of the silicate removing compounds that you placed in the aquarium (usually in a bag or fine mesh pouch).

Remember too that these compounds do not last forever and that they need to be changed. At the slightest appearance of brown filaments on your tank's panes you should replace all the compounds. Once you get a feel for how long this takes, you can replace them a few days earlier and prevent the diatoms from appearing altogether.

The daily siphoning and scrubbing is driving me batty. Unless I can find a silicate removing media that doesn't remove phosphates, i'm guessing I'll have to stop the EI- or at least stop the phosphate dosing.
 
Found the silica tap water analysis for Where I live.
Silica: 3.6 mg/L


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Did you have diatoms when the tank was running well last time?


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Yes, but it was more manageable. Cleaned glass near gravel maybe once per week.


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I decided to get a big pack of Oto cats. Maybe they can keep it at bay naturally. I'll let you guys know how it works out.


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The Otocinclus Catfishies have cleaned up any trace of diatoms. It has now been just about a week and I haven't had to clean anything! Beautiful!! It has been a while since I had a tank this clean. Thanks everyone!
 
Congratulations. I still have spots of BGA and BBA is trying to make a return but I am fighting it.


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