AQUARIUM log of a newbie... with questions of course

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fearlessfisch said:
Hi there, and congratulations on the new tank!

I always treat with dechlorinator for the entire tank, not just the water I am replacing. I measure the temperature of the water at the sink to make sure it matches the tank. I use Prime brand dechlorinator, because you use less, so the bottle lasts a long time. It treats 50 full gallons with just a capfull.

think i have the same kind.

You don't need to actually measure the 10 or 25 percent exactly. That is just a rough guideline of how much water to change. Just look at the tank, and 25 percent will be one fourth of the way down. It's okay if you take out a little more or less. It is not dangerous to add too much dechlorinator, so again, estimating is fine. Always err on the side of too much rather than too little dechlor.

this is what im probably gonna do.

It is ESSENTIAL that you get a test kit during the cycle. Ammonia in fish urine will burn the gills of your fish and kill them, which is why you need to test your water and do regular partial water changes until your tank has cycled. The cycle will grow colonies of bacteria that will turn the ammonia in the urine into nitrite (still dangerous) and then into nitrAte (less dangerous). Until the cycle completes, the levels of ammonia and nitrite can rise quickly and poison your fish.

You should buy a liquid reagent test kit (a lot of people here recommend Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master Kit). At the very least you will need tests for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. You can follow the process of the cycle and do water changes whenever ammonia and nitrite levels rise above about 0.5. You don't want to let them get past 1.0, or your fish are really in danger. First you will see a spike in ammonia, then in nitrite. When ammonia and nitrite fall to zero and you have only nitrAtes, the cycle is complete, and you will have to do water changes less often.

i currently have a kit. but its the dip stick kind. is that ok or the reagents are better?


I agree with everyone here who said don't add any chemicals except dechlorinator. The fish store will try to sell you a bunch of junk that will only cause you more problems.

I also agree that a Python is the best investment you will ever make for your tank. It makes maintenance so easy. You will never regret it.

am yet to hear anybody who has a bone to pick with the PYTHON. guess i am really getting me a 50-60 foot one tomorrow, another food variety. think its like "worm" thing.. and a filter media.. guess the hydor ceramic as suggested.anything else i should get guys? :roll:

Good luck, and keep asking questions.

thank you guys again for the inputs.. never have i seen a forum so helpful.
 
I have the Lee's brand and it works just as good.

I use the Hydor rings in our canisters and they work fine. In the future if you plan on upgrading the filter, go with a canister. But the one you chose will work fine for now.
 
whew! just did my first water change (10%). and thanks to you guys it was uneventful. thanks to the python!

i also got the testing kit (reagents)as earlier suggested by fearless.. however i too have the dip stick ones.. wonder if i should hold on to the reagent testing kit since i do have the dip sticks.

whats with my temps? i both have the paper strip thermometer which reads 78F and the digital thermometer which only reads 67F. what gives? i have set my heater to around 82 but it seems my digital temp. reading has not gone that close.... i have the hydor kind of heater.. is this a good quality heater or is there anything better you guys can suggest?
 
I would stop using the strips. They are not as accurate as the reagent kits.

Where is the thermometer probe placed?
 
on the side of the tank.. heater is at the back of the tank. . . in the middle..
 
Get a third thermometer. Just a cheap floating one. The chance of 3 bad thermometers is minimal. How does it feel to the touch. Thats a large difference. Use the liquid tests it is important to get good readings especially at this point.
 
how embarrasing! just found out why i was getting low temp despite the setting in the heater.. the digital thermometer was reading the air temp! just realized there is a switch that toggles between air and water temp! son of a gun! well now it is reading 78.5F.. so i guess this is just about right for my cichlids right?
 
just checked my water chemistries and here are the results:

HIGH pH: 8.0/8.2 cant really tell which value as the colors are really way too close to call.
Ammonia: 1
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0

Questions:

are my values ok. are my values just about right for a new FW tank?

regarding the pH. ive read that with african cichlids, the pH should be at 8.2. ive learned that i can use Proper pH 8.2. the thing is, after reading the literature, it says i should be adding first, an African Cichlid salt mix so that i get the correct pH value. is this worth the hassle to do?

also, i have a 55 gallon tank and currently have 6 african cichlids which ive had for 6 days. question is; when can i add some more fish? and how many can i add at a time? also, with my tank capacity what would be the maximum number of fish that i can have? any suggestions on how i can STOCK my thank? like say can i put it some small fish to go with my cichlids? thanks..
 
You need to do a partial water change. Try to keep ammonia levels at about 0.25, or at least at 0.5 or below.

Don't mess with pH. A stable pH is more important than a perfect pH, particularly during the cycle, which is stressful itself. Chemicals that fool with pH will stress out your fish and do more harm than good. Dechlorinator is the only chemical you need to be adding to your tank. Be very suspicious of anything else the fish store recommends.

Your cycle is going to take over a month to complete. After that you can gradually add more fish.

You have a great start. Congratulations.
 
:( am really enjoying my tank and the fish on it.. moreso that the tank has cleared very well from getting hazy... now id have to wait till i can have more fish.. ill return the "Proper pH 8.2" then..
 
I agree with fearless. Don't mess with the pH. Fish should not be added until the cycle has completed.

Regarding stocking, what do you currently have stocked?
 
i have african cichlids but am not sure what they are save for one.. i have six right now and one i think is a MALAWI cichlid...

also, i got my fish from petsmart. can anyone suggest of a nice place to get fish? i want someting that is colorful. is this a good place? http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/categ.cfm?pCatId=831 thing is think shipping is expensive at 30$ i think?

i am not feeding my fish today as i have read this would prevent them from getting constipated. am i right on this or will i starve my fish to death.. .
 
Can you post pics of your fish so we could possibly ID them? It is not wise to mix lakes if you are a beginner with Africans so hopefully all of your fish are Malawi. Also, when you are stocking Africans, you must know what you have already stocked so you know what is appropriate to add.
 
will try go get pictures right now.. geez.. i hope i do justice.. to my fish..
 
hopefully youd be able to identify the 6 fish that i have.

my tank
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Do you have any fish that are two of the same specie?

1: Tank shot, no fish ID
2: Kenyi
3,7,8: Kenyi, Yellow Lab
4,5,6: Pseudotropheus Socolofi
9: Can't tell because of the flash, but if it has red eyes, it is a Pseudotropheus Socolofi Albino

All of your fish are Lake Malawi Mbuna. The Labs and Socolofi are peaceful Mbuna. They are still an aggressive fish, but as far as Africans go, they are peaceful. Kenyi's are mean little buggers. They do not play nicely with peaceful Mbuna's. As they mature you will probably start to nice nipped fins and chasing matches. Also, if the Kenyi starts to change colors, you know that you have a male. Females stay the blue coloration while the males turn yellow. You may want to rethink the stocking. Either keep the Lab and Socolofi's or keep the Kenyi. I have all three in my 150 gal tank right now and the Kenyi's are pretty much kept in check by the larger fish, BUT you don't have that option in a 55 gal tank.
 
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