Coral Beauty

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smnw10

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Nov 17, 2008
Messages
82
The setup is a 58 gallon with a 20 gallon refugium and 20 gallon sump.
No corals, just fish, hermits, snails, LR and then macro in the fuge.

Last week the AC unit in the room with the fish tank overheated and quit working while I was at work (window units). The door was closed to that room at it reached over 100 degrees outside that day (and in that room). The tank temp was over 86 degrees, that's as high as my thermometer went.

I got another AC unit in there from another room, took all the lids off the tank, and turned off lights in an effort to reasonably quickly bring the temp down without doing it too fast. (maybe that was a mistake cooling it down too slowly instead of adding some cold RODI water or ice?)

The sand sifting starfish I had was dead the next morning.
I have a coral beauty, 2 clowns, and 1 yellow watchman goby. The snails and hermits all seem just fine. The clowns and goby are fine.
The CB has been hiding much more and wasn't eating. There's lots of rockwork and I couldn't get a good look at her until 2 days ago. Her color is very pale and she has some white spots on her. She did eat though last night for the first time in a week.

I haven't added anything at all to the tank since March and the high water temps is the only thing different that has happened.
SG is 1.023
temp is stable at 78-79
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: ~5
PH: 8.2

I can't get a picture because she stays hidden but her color is very pale and she has white spots on her fins, head, and body....not a lot, but they are noticeable.

Is this ick and can it be caused/triggered by over stressing the fish with the high temps or is this something else?

The tank itself has been up and running, fully cycled since January. I do use a skimmer too and weekly water changes with RODI.

Should I move to a hospital tank and....?

The clowns leave her alone and the goby spends his days in the rockwork so she isn't getting picked on.

thanks in advance
John
 
Should I move to a hospital tank and....?

Yes, It will be much easier to keep an eye on the fish and treat for ich there. As jimbo said i would go with the hypo-salinity treatment. I have found that clowns and gobies are resiliant to ich but keep a close eye on them anyway.
 
I will do that. Thanks!

My QT is a 10 gallon, should I just monitor the other fish or put them all in and treat?

I'm new to this and some reading online has shown contradicting views...
The ich came from? Since everything had been fine for months with nothing new added my assumption is the view that ich is either present or dormant and blooms under the right circumstances would appear to be true.
 
I would give the other fish a good inspection and if they have nothing leave them in the display. That many fish in a 10 gallon might be additional stress you don't want to put on them if you don't have to.

I personally think that ich is dormant in a lot of tanks. The combination of high heat which is perfect for ich and your fish being stressed which lowers thier immune system was probably what did it.
 
You might want to look into a larger QT tank for the future. A 10g is pretty small. Boil some sections of large PVC pipe to sterilize them and put them in there so he has somewhere to hide and feel safe. Don't add long sections he can go into so you can't monitor him though.

Craigslist is great for finding tanks, so many people are breaking down aquariums right now you can find a 20-30 gallon for 10-20 bucks.
 
Thanks for the links Mike. I was looking earlier and found those and read through them...they are now bookmarked!

I'll get the QT tank up as soon as I get home and start with the hyposalinity treatment. Hopefully I'll have a success story to tell in 6 weeks.
 
Bummer.
i got home after work, setup the QT tank with water from the display and some RODI to bring down the SG to 1.019 (tank water was at 1.023). Used a sponge I keep in the sump, powerhead, and bubbler.
The CB actually had no more white spots on her but her color was still very pale and she had little energy...very easy to catch once I got her out from behind the rocks.
In the QT tank she just sat there in the corner on the bottom and wouldn't eat when food was offered.

And she didn't make it through the night.

So, just wanted to compare notes...
the white spots were gone because the parasite had advanced quite far? and that's what killed her.
does that time-frame sound about right for advancement to death from marine ich?
and other than observing my other fish in the display, is there anything I else I should do? Both clowns and the goby I got a good look at last night and there's nothing wrong with them. The goby is actually happier the CB isn't there and is spending more time being adventurous in the open instead of staying in the rocks and caves.

Will pay better attention next time a fish doesn't act normal.
 
That really sucks, sorry for your loss.
Its hard to tell but because of the heat spike, I would guess it is still ich. Higher water temperatures accelerate the lifecycle of it, so it could have just been to late from the beginning.
Over what time span did you drop the salinity level to 1.019? And you added her before that correct?
 
Sorry about your loss. Just for future references dont go by the "no spots now" as they will fall off the fish and then while on the substrate over 200 little ones called tomites will come from each one that fell off. It`s better if you QT your fish as you get them and observe them for a while to see if they have any problems. Again sorry.
 
I was following this guide: Marine Ich or White Spot Disease

That started with the SG at 1.025 and said to remove 20% and replace with RODI....which would bring the SG down to 1.020 if I'm doing my math right. Since I was starting at 1.023 I brought it down .004 instead of .005. While doing this I just pulled out a gallon, replaced with RODI, then checked the SG then removed/added until I got to that number.

So I got the QT all setup and used water from the display. Put the fish in, and let her settle for a few hours (probably 3) and then brought the SG down. Was planning on removing 20% of the QT water and replacing with RODI every 12 hours until I got down to 1.009
 
Mike -
So, the white spots fell off and will produce a bunch of these parasites in the DT?
Is this cause for concern or should I just continue to monitor the other fish closely for the next couple weeks?
 
Very much cause for concern. Your tank is loaded with ich now. It can not live without a fish host though. I would suggest removing your fish to a QT and treating with hypo salinity and leaving the main fishless for 8 weeks and that should do it.
 
wow! my poor fish...

So I'll go get a 20 gallon for QT, that should be fine for the 2 clowns and goby for 8 weeks?
Other than some PVC is there any reason to add anything else to the QT for the fish's sake? I know the goby loves his caves.
 
well i havent posted here in months but i own a coral beauty and its a breed that must be QT'd before entering the main tank. Even after QTing it, it is very subsceptical to re-intrusion of ick and other parasites. Try a copper treatment for 3 weeks in a 10-20g QT tank. Seller should of told, or you can check saltwaterfish.com for info before future purchases.
 
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