Cycling a tank

[whehudeh]

What is the best way to do a fishless cycle in a freshwater tank? I've learned by trial and error but would prefer to learn the correct way this time.

I already know that it's ridiculous to listen to the recommendations of some Pet store staff as I remember when they basically said that you can add fish after 24-48 hours. Please may I have a step by step list (breaking down each step as to what I should expect in week 1 etc. Thank you in advance..

 

[coralbandit]

This article should be very helpful.
The (almost) Complete Guide and FAQ to Fishless Cycling - Aquarium Advice
Ever tank and the water used is different.
Hard to say where you will be in a week.
I have known people who completely cycled in 7 days and others who have taken over a month .
Once you get started it might be easier to see and predict how fast your tank can cycle.
Good luck !

 

[ZxC]

Couple extra tips:

If you plant on planting the tank, plant as much as your budget allows from day 1.
Raise the temperature of the tank to >80* F to speed up microbial activity.

Keep ammonia 2-4ppm, watch for a nitrite spike, when the nitrite spike is brought down and the tank can consume 2ppm ammonia -- nitrate within 24 hours with no nitrites you should be set.

 

[Coralocean]

ZxC
"If you plant on planting the tank" lol

He he you are such a green thumb, did you write that sentence on purpose?

 

[ZxC]

ZxC
"If you plant on planting the tank" lol

He he you are such a green thumb, did you write that sentence on purpose?

I hadn't quite finished my morning coffee when I wrote that.... But who knows, maybe I meant to say that, you'll never know.

 

[drjallen3]

What is the best way to do a fishless cycle in a freshwater tank? I've learned by trial and error but would prefer to learn the correct way this time.

I already know that it's ridiculous to listen to the recommendations of some Pet store staff as I remember when they basically said that you can add fish after 24-48 hours. Please may I have a step by step list (breaking down each step as to what I should expect in week 1 etc. Thank you in advance..

I am going to advise you based on cycling your tank using the very best experience that I have ever had in 30 years of being an aquarium hobbyist. Once you have everything set up with gravel/sand, plants (real or plastic), decorative items, water, heater set at 80 to 82 degrees F, and filter installed and running...here are the items I suggest you purchase if you don't have already. Cotton ear swabs, plain ammonia (no lemon scented or with any other ingredients added), a test kit that will test for ph, ammonia, nitrates, and nitrates at least...perhaps an API test kit, and proper pH tabs. They will just say proper pH or proper pH 7.0 for fresh water. With the tank already set up and running, add the proper number of proper pH tabs recommend on the box. It's usually 1 tab for each 10 gallons of water. Then take a cotton swab and dip it in the ammonia and then into your tank and swirl it around a few times and throw it away. Do this again with a fresh cotton swab until you have done it once for eac 10 gallons of water in your tank. Then close your tank and let it cycle. Within 24 hours, your tank will become cloudy as if someone poured milk in the water...this is good. The cloudiness will be because of an explosion of Nitosomas bacteria. These are the bacteria that you will need to remain in the tank to take care of ammonia throughout the lifetime of your tank. As they continue to grow on the ammonia in the tank, they will eventually stick to your filter medium and substrate and the water will clear as Nitrobacter bacteria change the nitrites produced by the ammonia eaters into nitrates. Find yourself a house plant called Pothos also called devil's ivy. Take 8 to 10 eight inch cuttings and strip the leaves off the bottom 4 inches of the cuttings and stick them in any openings you have in the back of the tank with leaves sticking up out of the water. They will be beautiful looking, but more importantly, they will root and suck up all your nitrates. There is no need to test any water conditions at this time. Just let the tank cycle for one month. If water evaporates during the cycling period, get youself a jug of distilled water from the supermarket and fill to proper level. After 1 month, chech the pH level. There are no fish in there to go through pH shock and at this point you will notice a drop in pH. Drop in the recommended number of proper pH tab again. Wait 24 hours and then test the pH which should be 7.0 and test nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia. You should find that you are now ready to slowly start adding fish to your tank.

 

[flitabout]

Don't screw with the pH that is setting you up for more issues than it's worth! If you add anything to your tank to adjust the pH it will never be stable. Every time you do a water change you will be right back where you started and have to add more chemicals. All of that messing around isn't good for you fish, or your wallet. Consistent stable conditions are what is important.
There are much better ways to add ammonia and be more exact in the amounts. Here is the sight I have always used. Calculator . The ammo calculator is at the bottom. Use an oral syringe to measure. Dose to 3-4ppm.

 

[drjallen3]

Don't screw with the pH that is setting you up for more issues than it's worth! If you add anything to your tank to adjust the pH it will never be stable. Every time you do a water change you will be right back where you started and have to add more chemicals. All of that messing around isn't good for you fish, or your wallet. Consistent stable conditions are what is important.
There are much better ways to add ammonia and be more exact in the amounts. Here is the sight I have always used. Calculator . The ammo calculator is at the bottom. Use an oral syringe to measure. Dose to 3-4ppm.

I totally don't agree with playing with the pH in Aquarium water, so I don't play with the pH up or down chemicals. The buffer tabs I recommend because the hold the pH at a steady level for up to a month depending on fish load and can even be added to compensate for water changes. Since you are cycling a fishless tank, getting the water to a pH of 7.0 with a product that buffers the water to keep it there, it won't fluctuate so much. Also, fish can take a pH change of .2 at a time without harm. So if your ph falls to 6.8 or rises to 7.2, you can just drop in more tabs. The reason I suggest keeping the ph within these perameters is because most of the aquarium shops where you purchase you fish will usually be kept in water that is at 7.0. This keeps the movement from pet shop to home safer and more comfortable for the fish. I do agree there are more accurate ways of adding ammonia to the water, but the cotton swab method done once a week has the ability to work well as long as your water parameters test well after a month and you start your fish stocking slowly. The ingredients in the buffer tabs are small amounts of sodium chloride (table salt) buffers (that is mainly baking soda), potassium salt. There are no strange chemicals of 15 letter non-pronouncable unknown products. But hats off to those who check my recommendations. Thanks.

 

[ZxC]

What is the best way to do a fishless cycle in a freshwater tank?

The best way is the simplest way. Don’t play with adjusting parameters, set the tank up, add an ammonia source, wait + test.

 

[whehudeh]

Thank you. I'm getting a 90-100 gallon tank some time soon so I want to be able to do it correctly (not by trial and error).

 

[whehudeh]

I truly appreciate this group and the advice that I receive.