Foray into plants - very confused about K requirements

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I finally decided to give it a go using real plants in my tanks, starting with my freshwater 72 gallon bowfront. The tank came standard with a light fixture that holds two 48" bulbs, and the ones that came with it are 40W apiece. This does not achieve the watts-per-gallon people seem to think is best. However, the next wattage light I have seen is Coralife's 110W fixtures. Seems a bit high to have two of those.

Recommendations? One 110W and one 40W? Also, what K should I be looking for?
 
Ok, I did some research and discovered the ballast issue, which I guess I knew about but had spaced off until I saw it. I don't plan on changing the ballasts out, so I guess I will be sticking with the 40 watters for now.

According to the AA article, 5000k-10,000k is good for planted tanks. Yet when I saw Hagen's "Flora-Glo" bulbs, it was listed somewhere around 3000k. I am very confused about what bulbs I should be using, short of not to use actinic blue.
 
Fish Surgeon said:
I am very confused about what bulbs I should be using, short of not to use actinic blue.

actinic bulbs are for salt water tanks. It promotes algae and freshwater plants do not benefit from the lighting.

the best spectrum i believe is 6700K, it contains all the spectrum freshwater plant needs. The other bulbs are used to simulate a sunset sunrise effect

http://www.thekrib.com/Lights/sunset.html

everything else you need to know about lighting is here

http://www.thekrib.com/Lights/
 
5000k-10000k is good for plants and looks good to our eyes too. 3000k will grow plants, but its' a very, very yellow light, more like normal incandescent lighting (non-soft white bulbs).

most people who have been in planted tanks a year or more will start mixing kelvin temps of bulbs. I myself run 9325k, 8800k and 6500k on my 75 gallon tank.
 
Way too much emphasis is placed on Kelvin or actually Kelvin approximations. This is an almost laughable measurement for choosing fluorescent lamps. K, K rating, or Kelvin is often referred to as the color temperature of light produced from the bulb. The color temperature of light is derived from the temperature to which you would have to heat a blackbody radiator to make it glow the same color. However, the output from a blackbody radiator is continuous across the visible spectrum but, fluorescent tubes emit an interrupted spectrum, so this means you can't accurately define a fluorescent light as having a Kelvin color, it only approximates it. Bulb manufacturers have stamped bulbs with K ratings to give us an idea of how the color of the light compares to sunlight. Sunlight should be about 5500K. Lower values should look more yellow/orange/red and higher values should look more white/pink/blue. It doesn’t always work out that way, some manufactures use "secret" formulas for determining the K rating they give to their bulbs. (Hagen's PowerGlo is 18000K ?) Make no mistake. Two 6500K lamps from two different manufacturers may look very different to the eye and may be comprised of very different spectral patterns. Meaning, the manufacturers combine differing amounts of each wavelength to create their lamps. It's like saying you have 25 cents. You could have a quarter, or you could have two dimes and a nickel, or you could have one dime and three nickels, or you could have two dimes and five pennys, etc. all of which equal 25 cents, but the combination of parts can vary greatly. All this would be important, except that plants aren't that picky. Plants are highly adaptable...they have to be. They adapt to cloud cover, water turbidity, bright sun, etc. Different dissolved organics in the water will absorb differing wavelengths of light and all this can change frequently due to runoffs from rain, leaf litter, etc. The main point is this, some lamps may be more efficient, but if you provide enough intensity you need not be overly concerned about Kelvin...except in how your color rendering preferences align with Kelvin ratings. For example, I really like how actinic lamps intensify colors on my fish and plants, so when space permits I always use one actinic lamp...and no, actinic lamps do not promote algae. As stated by several others, any lamp with a K rating from 5000K to 10000K should be pleasing to your eyes in how they render colors and the plants will adapt to whatever you place over them.
 
I have actinic bulbs only but am willing to convert. I am pretty sure i can just purchase different bulbs that will work with my lighting set up but am wondering if changing the bulbs will do the trick. My dilemma stems from me not wanting ot invest in a CO2 system, yet I am afraid that if i buy decent lights, I will go over the 2.5 wpg rule and will therefore need CO2. WIll I be able to successfully grow (any?) plants without convertingn ot CO2. I am willing to add/change substrate.
 
Very nice post Steve! Delving into the tech is a great souce of info, sometimes the basics dont cut it- BTW are you a flourescent light manufacturer? LOL
 
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