Help my fish are dying

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Connorsx

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
19
Location
Torquay, Devon, england
Set up a new tank the other day with a new filter.... Temp and everything Is the same as my previous tank... Except the filter doesn't seem to be making enough oxygen, one glolight has gone and the overs look like they are struggling at the surface for oxygen what shall I do
 
Changed water, now fine, tested old water, ammonia fine but ph level slightly low, 6.4 is that enough to kill the fish over night and what do I do about it? Thanks for advice too
 
Just rechecked ammonia and it was at dangerous levels..... Is that over feeding? And thankyou so much, I wouldn't of thought about checking that I was convinced it was the filter
 
Moved to FW and Brackish- Getting Started. This should help you to get more responses.

Since there are fish in the tank already, it isn't going to do a whole lot of good to talk about fishless cycling. The second article linked there should be very helpful.
 
Definitely click on the links above and read things through a few times until you think you get it. This is crucial information that will help you keep your fish alive right now and thriving later.

No question is stupid, so be sure to ask if you don't understand something.
 
That's brilliant thankyou... A bit upset that nobody at the shop told me this before. I won't take my fish back but will try the cycle until I get it right, I've just read that king British safe water helps speed up the maturity of the filter? Any ideas what can help me on my way?
 
What size is your tank and what fish do you have in there (and how many)?

The only thing you should add to the tank is dechlorinator to the tap water before you put it in. Any bacteria in a bottle products are generally not of much help.

What test kit are you using? If it's strips, I highly recommend getting the API Master Liquid Test kit.

Test your water daily; any time ammonia and/or nitrite are over .25, do a water change to get them to as close to 0 as you can. Same with nitrates over 20. This may mean a very large water change, it may mean more than one in a day; let the test kit dictate when and how much of a water change to do. If you can get Prime, which is an excellent dechlorinator, it will also help detoxify some of the toxins between water changes (but not to be used in place of water changes). You'll be doing this for some weeks while the tank cycles; ammonia will slowly rise and our water changes will increase. Then ammonia will start to come down and nitrites will rise and increase. Eventually when both ammonia and nitrite fall to 0 on their own and stay there (without water changes to get them down) your tank will be cycled. Don't add any new fish for a while and just be prepared to test the water daily and do water changes as needed for the next 3-6 weeks (on average).

There are two links in my signature: new tank with fish and what is cycling. Read them both and they'll help.

Don't worry about your PH. Test it daily too but as long as it stays stable it's fine for the fish. If it starts fluctuating then that could be an issue and one we can address if it happens.

If you can get some media (a filter pad, gravel, a decoration, etc) from a healthy established tank that is the best thing to use to help seed your filter and move the process along. Otherwise just be patient and it'll happen on its own.

Good luck.
 
That's a much easier explanation thankyou... I have a 60 litre tank with 2 algae eaters, 2 mollies and 20 tetras. I also have a 30 litre tank with now 4 guppies in, I have had this tank nearly 2 months now, I do lose a guppy in first week and probably to do with same problem but the tank I'd now tested and fine, the new tank had been set up with the ornaments and plants from smaller tank so I hope this helps.... I have just spent £20 on testing strips do will use these first then buy the kit , thanks for your help
 
without a real kit, it's very hard to monitor your cycle. test strips aren't accurate.
 
Connorsx said:
Are they that bad? Whats this real kit all about then? Not strips no?

Nope not strips. The problem is you have to use them after the day or two after they're manufactured because they have a ridiculously short shelf life and not very accurate in the first place. Liquid test kits are in the long run cheaper than buying strips all the time and can last for two years before expiring, not to mention having like hundreds of tests with them.
 
Connorsx said:
Are they that bad? Whats this real kit all about then? Not strips no?

Nope not strips. The problem is you have to use them after the day or two after they're manufactured because they have a ridiculously short shelf life and not very accurate in the first place. Liquid test kits are in the long run cheaper than buying strips all the time and can last for two years before expiring, not to mention having like hundreds of tests with them.
 
I agree too, using test strips is like throwing a dart at a board labeled with 0 ppm, .25 ppm, .5 ppm, 1ppm, etc. Best to invest in an API master kit.

Just do what the others have said and perform a water change if the ammonia reads over .25. Depending on how long the tank has been set up, a cycle with fish can take about 4-6 weeks. I noticed you have another tank, you could speed up the cycle by adding some of the filter media from the tank that has been cycled.
 
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