Help please with platys and danios

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Al123

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 21, 2024
Messages
12
Hi I have been having some problems with my platys and danios as they are not eating and platys look quite weak and have had 6 dead since start of December some due to fungal issues which I have treated for whole tank danios seem fine just not eating

Some platys on their side and unable to stay upright

I have a temperate tank
Temp is 15.4 degrees celcius
PH is under 6 and I have been using PH up
Currently 1 plant 8 danios and 6 platys
Nitrate is 25 ppm
Do 25% water change every week
Bit of a problem with algae
56 liter tank
 
For starters, your tank is too cold for Platies. They should be in at least 21c at the minimum with 25.5c the more ideal range. Being that cold is why the fish had fungal issues. Platies also should be in more alkaline water. A Ph of 7.0 -8.0 so a Ph of 7.5 would be more ideal.
As for the danios not eating, with the tank being that cold, the fish will slow down so the need for food also goes down.

I assume you have cycled the tank since you have nitrates or are they coming from your source water? Did you test your source water for nitrates? What is the ammonia and nitrite levels? Your "Bit of a problem with algae." is because of your nitrate level. If you have plants that consume nitrates, you need more of them.

So let's start there.
 
I have tried to increase the PH level with no luck
Nitrite is 1 ppm
I don't know ammonia
What heater would you recommend also I was told at the shop that they were cold water platys and didn't need a heater

Thanks for the guidance
Al123
 
Nitrite at 1ppm is too high, and will be causing long term damage to internal organs. Change 50% of the water as soon as you are able.

You need to know what your ammonia is at. Until you get a reliable test kit that can measure pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate change 50% of the water every day. Once you get a test kit, then you can cycle the tank. Do you know how to cycle a tank?

There is no such thing as a cold water platy. Your fish store doesnt know what they are talking about. Platys will tolerate a lower temperature, but its not a good living environment for them and will make them prone to disease and other infections. Size of heater will be based on your room temperature. If your room is a typical living space temperature of 18 to 20C, then a 50W heater will bring it to the temperature you require. If the room is colder, 14 to 18C, then look for a 75W heater. If its colder than that, then maybe a 100W heater will be needed.

Try getting some crushed coral or a piece of cuttlefish fish bone. Put the crushed coral in a media bag and put it in your filter, or just put the cuttlefish bone in your aquascape somewhere. These will both slowly dissolve in acidic water, raise carbonate hardness and pH. Replace when its disolved away, it should last months/ years though. If you arent able to get the water above 7 pH, rethink the platys. There are plenty of fish that prefer acidic water that will do better than platys in your tank.
 
Last edited:
Yes I do know how to cycle the water have been doing since April
Done a water change Nitrite at 0 ppm Nitrate at 15 ppm
my temps have gone up in the day and are now at 23 Could you suggest a British fish shop that would be better please thanks

I was told that they just have to be in a heated room and don't need a heater as they are temperate fish also is there any suggestions on the danios
 
Well. A heated room room be in the 18 to 20C bracket. If your house is built to current standards then it will drop a degree or 2 overnight during winter. If its an old house it will drop to 9 or 10C. Most houses will be somewhere in between. So you need a heater.

If you have been cycling the tank since April, without a test for ammonia, i would question if you understand what the cycle is and how to cycle a tank. What have you been doing to cycle the tank? It doesnt normally take 9 months to cycle a tank.

I wouldnt recommend any fishstore for advice. They are generally all poor sources for information. You might get good advice from a dedicated fish store as opposed to pets at home. Pets at home are good places to buy equipment and fish from, but will offer poor advice. Maidenhead aquatics are a nationwide chain, you might get better advice there than Pets at home. If you are in the Midlands, Wharf Aquatics are good. J28 of M1. But generally fish stores are there to sell you stuff. Not give advice.
 
No I do not know what cycling a tank is the I thought it was water change have been doing water changes every week since april
My pet store is pets at home and there tanks for platys don't have heaters
My house is 5 years old so doesn't drop too much in night
PH I have put some more PH up in and now stable at 7.8 Ph
 
If youve got a lot of aquariums in one place, it's cheaper to heat the whole space rather than individually heat a bunch of aquariums. Pets at home also use a sump for filtration so they could have a heater in there where you wouldnt see. Their tanks are heated one way or other, either because the whole space is heated 24/7 or the heater is in the sump.

I'll post something that explains what the nitrogen cycle is and how to cycle a tank with fish.

However, 9 months with fish in the tank, your aquarium should be cycled by now and its not. It could be your very cold water and low pH might be inhibiting the cycling process. Your water company should have your water parameters on their website down to a postcode level. If you could look them up and report pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) that would assist in finding out why you arent cycled yet. KH is particularly useful to know.

Temperate would be 15c up to say 24c. Most danios are good throughout that whole range. Pets at home sell zebra danios and they will be good. Platys you "might" consider to be temperate, but need to be in the upper half of the range, but they are better at the lower end of tropical temperature range.
 
The nitrogen cycle is the natural processes that go on in your tank that convert ammonia into less harmful substances.

Ammonia gets into your tank through various pathways. Fish waste, decaying uneaten food, and dead, decaying plants are common ammonia sources in an aquarium. Its also possible your tap water is an ammonia source. Chloramine is a common water treatment and when treated with most water conditioners the bond in the chloramine breaks and releases ammonia into the water.

Ammonia can be toxic to fish, depending on how much there is, and what the pH and temperature of your tank water is.

The first stage of the nitrogen cycle is the removal of ammonia. If you have real plants in your tank some of this ammonia will be absorbed as part of their natural growth. Generally though ammonia is consumed by denitrifying bacteria that lives mostly on your filter media. These bacteria consume the ammonia and produce nitrite. Unfortunately nitrite is pretty much as toxic to fish as ammonia.

The second stage of the nitrogen cycle is the removal of nitrite. A different denitrifying bacteria will consume the nitrite and produce nitrate. Nitrate is much less harmful than ammonia and nitrite, and for most aquariums the nitrogen cycle ends there. Excess nitrate is removed through your regular water changes.

A further stage of the nitrogen cycle can also happen, but its difficult to remove all the nitrate from a typical freshwater aquarium. Plants will absorb some nitrate in a similar manner to how it absorbs ammonia to grow. There are also nitrifying bacteria that consumes nitrate and gives off nitrogen gas which will simply offgas from your aquarium. This nitrifying bacteria is difficult to grow in freshwater aquarium.

“Cycling” a tank is the process you go through to grow denitrifying bacteria in your aquarium to consume ammonia and nitrite. You are said to be “cycled” when you have enough bacteria to consume all the ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces and turns all of it into nitrate. If you test the water of a cycled tank you should see 0 ammonia and nitrite and some nitrate.
 
To cycle a tank you need to grow denitrifying bacteria to consume ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces. The bacteria needs an ammonia source to grow colonies sufficient in size to consume all the ammonia and resultant nitrite and turn it into nitrate which typically you remove through your regular water changes.

A fish in cycle uses fish waste as an ammonia source and regular water changes are undertaken to ensure that water parameters are maintained at relatively non toxic levels.

Set up your tank. Make sure everything is running smoothly. Make sure you have used a water conditioner product with any tap water you have put in your tank. Seachem Prime is a water conditioner that will also detoxify some ammonia for a day or two, so is a good choice for a water conditioner while cycling a tank with fish.

You should have a test kit. Preferably a liquid test kit. It should test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

In ideal circumstances you should be starting a fishless cycle with a low bioload (number of fish). 1 small fish per 10 gallons/40 litres is a good number of fish, but this can be tweaked a little for fish that are social and don’t do well on their own. Ideally a hardy type of fish. You may have fully stocked (or overstocked) your tank before you knew about cycling. In these circumstances, if its not possible to return fish, you will have to make the best of it.

If you haven’t already done so, add your fish. Acclimate them to the water in your tank before doing so.

Feed lightly to start with. Daily as much as is eaten in 2 minutes, or as much as is eaten in 3 minutes every 2 days. You can increase to full feedings if you are confident your parameters aren’t getting too elevated too quickly and water changes don’t become a daily thing.

Start to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite. At least daily. Depending on your bioload you could start to see ammonia quite quickly. Nitrite will likely take a little longer to appear.

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm by changing water whenever your water parameters exceed this target. 0.5ppm combined is a level of waste that is sufficient for your cycle to establish but relatively safe for your fish.

If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrite (0.5ppm combined) then leave things be. If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) then change 1/3 of the water. If you see 0.25ppm ammonia and 0.75ppm nitrite (1.0ppm combined) then change 1/2 the water. If water parameters get worse than these levels it may require multiple daily 50% water changes to maintain safe water conditions. This is more likely to happen with a fully stocked tank.

Remember to add water conditioner whenever you put tap water in the tank.

Over time the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change to maintain your ammonia + nitrite combined target will reduce. You can also start testing for nitrate and should see this rising. If you are finding the ammonia and nitrite in your tests are consistently low, and you aren’t already fully stocked, you can add a few more fish. It may take a few weeks to get to this point.

Once you add a few more fish, continue to regularly test the water and continue to change water if you exceed the 0.5ppm combined ammonia + nitrite target. With added bioload the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change may increase again until your cycle has caught up. Again once you are consistently seeing low ammonia and nitrite you can add some more fish. Rinse and repeat with testing, water changes, and adding fish when safe to do so until you are fully stocked.

You can then cut back on water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate no higher than 40ppm, but I would recommend changing some water every 2 weeks even if your water test says you don’t need to.

A fish in cycle from an empty tank to fully stocked can take several months.

A good way to speed up this process would be to put a small amount of filter media from an established filter into your filter, or get a sponge from an established filter and squeeze it into your tank water. Perhaps you have a friend who keeps fish who could let you have some? This will seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow and speed up the process.

Another option is bottled bacteria like Dr Tims One + Only or Tetra Safestart. These products wont instantly cycle a tank as they claim but in a similar manner to adding established filter media they can seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow to establish your cycle. These products are hit and miss as to whether they work at all, but are an option if established filter media isnt obtainable and may speed up the process from several months to several weeks.
 
Just got new water tester Nitrite at 0 ammonia at 0.48

Water temp is now up to 24 C
How would I heat my whole space to save money(got 3 tanks all temperate)
 
How would I heat my whole space to save money(got 3 tanks all temperate)

Turn the heating up to 24C and running the heating 24/7 365 days a year. Its going to be efficient if you have dozens of tanks in a dedicated fish room (or aquatics store), not if you have 3 tanks in your living room.
 
No I do not know what cycling a tank is the I thought it was water change have been doing water changes every week since april
My pet store is pets at home and there tanks for platys don't have heaters
My house is 5 years old so doesn't drop too much in night
PH I have put some more PH up in and now stable at 7.8 Ph

Since I am not near to you ( I'm in the U.S. ) I can't recommend store(s) as Aiken can but I will say that just because a store des not have a heater in a tank does not mean A) They are keeping their fish the best way or B) that the water in the tank is not in the correct temperature range. In something like a recirculating system, the heater could be in a sump so that it heats all the water in the system before it flows into the individual tanks or the store's ambient temperature is in the correct range. So you need to know what temperature their water is before comparing what they do mechanically to what you do. :whistle:

Aiken has covered the basics of what needs to happen so I will leave you in his most capable hands. (y)(y)
 
How long until a difference should occur once got heater
 
How have you increased the temperature without a heater?

For future reference, upping the temperature by 8ish degrees in less than a day is a really bad idea. That big a change in such a short space of time can cause temperature shock and kill fish. Ideally turn up the temperature gradually, 2 degrees a day. An adjustable heater will allow you to gradually change the temperature.
 
Since I am not near to you ( I'm in the U.S. ) I can't recommend store(s) as Aiken can.

Pets at Home is our pet store chain. Kind of like your Petco or Petsmart. I think they are smaller units than petco/ petsmart (everything is probably smaller here than US equivalents), but they are everywhere. You are probably never further than 10 miles from a Pets at Home and most towns will have one, and a small city like Derby near where i live has a couple. They sell small furry pets (rabbits, hamsters etc), consumables for larger pets like cats and dogs. They usually have a pretty good vets service in store. And they have a small selection of fish and reptiles, aquariums, other consumables and equipment. They all get their fish solely from Singapore. While limited in range of what fish they sell, their fish are healthy and a good price. Good store to go shopping at, they sell the basics at a reasonable price. Never had a problem with anything ive bought from them. But, mostly their staff keep cats and dogs, and you can see the panic if you ask a question about fish. They get 2 weeks training across their entire range of livestock and products.

Maidenhead aquatics are a nationwide chain of aquatics stores. Usually found in garden centres and you pay the garden centre mark up. Much better range of fish, and all round a bigger range of equipment and consumables. But you pay extra. Their staff are usually hobbyists, and you stand a better chance of getting good advice there than a pets at home. Each store sources their own fish, so you might get them coming from asia, easyern europe or a local breeder depending on the individual store. They also have a few really good display tanks in their stores, so i always enjoy a visit to a maidenhead aquatics.

After that you get stand alone pet stores and aquarium stores. I think you might call them mom and pop. These stand alone stores are hit and miss. My nearest aquatics store (Wharf) is nationally recognised. Another local store is just dreadful. There is a really good koi specialist nearby too.

I will leave you in his most capable hands. (y)(y)

Thank you very much.
 
Yeah, Pets at home sounds like the equivalent of Petco and Petsmart. Veterinarian services at Petco and salespeople who believe they know something about fish but you can easily trip them up on a serious question. LOL :facepalm:
Maidenhead sounds familiar to me. I used to wholesale fish to few places in England. Two in London and one in Manchester if I recall right. If they were around in the early 80s, I may have been selling them fish. (y) ( Now I wish I had those old airway bills. :^s I only kept a couple of copies of the old saltwater price lists for nostalgia purposes. LOL )
 
I live in the North East so Pets at home only option till consett for me
 
Back
Top Bottom