Help please!!!

[Paul1792]

I AM using the factory pads in the C3. I stated that IF you tried using the non factory pads they would not work as they are too thick. In the AC50, I used the foam insert that comes with it, a cut to fit fiber pad, then a 100 micron polishing pad and on top the bag of bio media. I got perfectly polished water with the AC50. Lifting out the media each time for cleaning the foam and pads was NOT difficult. I'm saying that IME if you already have an Aqua Clear, the benefits of the C series as far as water polishing is not worth the extra expense of an upgrade. I don't want people spending 50- 60 dollars on an upgrade to a C4 expecting a miracle improvement. The C series IS worth the upgrade IMO IF you don't already have an Aqua Clear. But, many in here have perfectly clear water using other brands of HOB's also. OS.

*************
fair enough but:

1I How about if you don't buy the right size of non-factory pads, they won't work.

2) Not sure what band of 100 micron you use in an AC, but when I tried it with my brand, it would not stay in place and also caused the bio-media to float up. A 300 micron did work, however.

3) I agree, no need to buy a new filter if you are getting crystal clear polished water from an AquaClear, which I know can be done if the media is modified correctly from the "out of the box" version. But I have never told anyone (except myself) to replace an existing AquaClear. The person in this thread is choosing a NEW filter and the choice boils down to AC or Fluval C so let's drop this for now.

My gosh ....... every time I mention anything about the Fluval C being a superior filter and why, ... or the known Aquaclear bypass issue, someone always attacks me like I am levying insults at their own mother. The AC may have been the best HOB available for25 or 30 years ..... but Hagen has updated the technology of HOB's with the advent of the C series. ........ BTW .. didn't you say something to that effect in a prior post?

 

[Rak9378]

Here's the info on tap water parameters you asked about too Rak View attachment 227911

In 2 minds about what to do with filter atm. There is no guarantees the filter I have even works and I have to buy all the media etc for it that lfs has to order in. So perhaps I should just buy another one, I dunno...... What's everyone's opinions on good quality filters?

I've never used a HOB so I will stay out of this debate. I will point out one thing, if you keep your aquarium flush to the wall then just know that with a HOB type filter you won't be able to keep it flush anymore. You will have to leave a space between the tank and wall to make room for the filter. Unless there is a way to keep it on the size of the tank that I'm not aware of...but I can't imagine that would look very nice.

Thanks for sending the water report. Unfortunately I don't think it gives you much if any info regarding hardness. I may have missed something as it gets kind of blurry when I zoom in. But at least you have a GH/KH test now and can test for yourself!

 

[Lea82]

Hi guys,
So I bought the C4 today So excited lol. Just to confirm, I don't use the carbon that comes with filter but I replace it with the Seachem Purigen instead. The link you had regarding using my seeded media goes to something else? How would I do this? Or should I just run both filters together for a while? I noticed you said you use other things like floss( this is for polishing too?) and matrix etc, do I need any of these as yet? Thanks for help

 

[Rak9378]

Very nice!! I'm not intimately familiar with it but I'm sure Paul or someone can give you advice on the best media. The one thing you shouldn't do is just remove the other filter and replace it with this one as you will be removing a good portion of the beneficial bacteria and will likely start a cycle. I would try to move the sponges you have in the current filter to the c4. This will seed the rest of the media in the c4. If that's not possible then I would run both filters for a few weeks.

 

[Paul1792]

Hi guys,
So I bought the C4 today So excited lol. Just to confirm, I don't use the carbon that comes with filter but I replace it with the Seachem Purigen instead. The link you had regarding using my seeded media goes to something else? How would I do this? Or should I just run both filters together for a while? I noticed you said you use other things like floss( this is for polishing too?) and matrix etc, do I need any of these as yet? Thanks for help

*********
Not sure why the link didn't work for you .....
Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community - Paul1792's Album: Paul1792's 29 gallon - Picture

But if it still does not work, go to my profile and click on the link to my 29 gallon tank photo album

Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community - Paul1792's Album: Paul1792's 29 gallon

You will note that I tracked my 29 gallon from the day I set it up last August through a fish in cycle that took just over a week. When you click on the above link, there are a total of 17 pictures that you should be able to view all at once. The picture of my initial "seeding" is 7th from the bottom. There is also a picture in there of how I seeded the first filter change as well with less used media ...... a step that was probably not needed in a tank that was a month old.

Edit: I forgot how well the first set of pictures in this photo album show that even after the tank cycles ....... taking out the factory carbon post "cycling" and adding Purigen gives the water added clarity and "polish."
**
Yes, and Rak's post above is spot on. Run both filters for a while simultaneously. If seeded properly ..... maybe a week. If not ... a few weeks.

Edit: Oops ..... didn't answer your second question. The floss is just for "stuffing" which I hope will force more water through the Purigen. It also is just one more place for beneficial bacteria to hang on to. The Seachem Matrix just provides even more bio-filtration than you are getting from the C-Nodes in the trickle chamber. You do not need Matrix per se in the chemical chamber. But I suggest putting some kind of bio-media like some small ceramic "bio-balls" in the chemical chamber in a bio-bag as extra backup for beneficial bacteria. Since you'll be running both filters for a while, I wouldn't worry about this when initially setting up your filter. I'd' just to it before you remove your other filter.

 

[Lea82]

Ok great thanks So my water is clearing a bit but still cloudy atm. I have got both filters running ATM, I had to rinse out the filter sponges in some tank water as they were all gunky. How often does C4 need to be washed out? Just when the indicator shows? Also is it necessary for an air stone for oxygen?

 

[Paul1792]

Ok great thanks So my water is clearing a bit but still cloudy atm. I have got both filters running ATM, I had to rinse out the filter sponges in some tank water as they were all gunky. How often does C4 need to be washed out? Just when the indicator shows? Also is it necessary for an air stone for oxygen?

***********
Yikes ...... I forgot something ........ your cloudiness may in fact be due to a bacterial bloom due to tne start a mii nitrogen cycle due to new fish. If that is correct, you may want to take out Purigen if you put it in already and go ahead and use the factory carbon for a week or so ..... until your tank finishes its cycle.

From the Seachem website:

Cycling the tank with Purigen - Seachem Support Forums

Because Purigen removes nitrogenous organic waste, it can extend the cycling process in some cases. There are a couple of things you can do to help prevent this.

The obvious one is to remove the Purigen until the aquarium has cycled completely. Just remember to keep the Purigen moist in a sealed container, it should not be allowed to dry.

Proper placement of the Purigen in your filtration can also help prevent having an impact on the cycling process. Ensuring that the water is passed through you biological filtration media before it passes through the Purigen will allow the bacteria to have access to the nutrients before it reaches the Purigen.

Of course, the most effective method would be to remove the Purigen and continue using Stability to establish you bio-filter. Once this is done, you can add the Purigen back to your filter and the biological filtration will adapt to the change in available nutrient.
***********
You do not need to service your mechanical C4 media until red button pops up. I am in hurry now ....... will add to this tomorroa !!!!!!!!!!!!!
but this looked like emergency

 

[Lea82]

Ok, will take out and put carbon back in, thanks so much!

 

[90galWavefront]

I found my ph was always a bit high in my old tank,so I added a few shells which slowly desolve and lowers the ph slowly as not to shock the system. Worked great for me.. If you have access to shells it works to maintain the ph but to slow for rapid relief though.
The tank I'm using now is still green ( new cycling ) but will use the shells if ph starts to drop.

 

[Brookster123]

I found my ph was always a bit high in my old tank,so I added a few shells which slowly desolve and lowers the ph slowly as not to shock the system. Worked great for me.. If you have access to shells it works to maintain the ph but to slow for rapid relief though. The tank I'm using now is still green ( new cycling ) but will use the shells if ph starts to drop.

thought shells and coral raise the ph???

 

[Lea82]

Yeah I thought the coral raised ph as well??

 

[Lea82]

Ok, so water today is quite a lot clearer the last 2 days.
Parameters were on 16/3/14
PH-6
Amm-4
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-10
Kh-7
Gh-5
After 60% WC they were:
PH-6.4
Amm-4
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-5.0
Kh-3
Gh-5
Added stress coat, ammo lock and 1 tsp bi-carb for ph
Today they are:
PH-7.2
Amm-4
Nitrite-0.25
Nitrate-5
Kh-4
Gh-5

So questions are should I continue daily water changes till ammonia comes down?
Should I continue to add ammo lock or this prolonging the cycle?

Thanks again guys for all of your help

 

[Delapool]

You will still need some sort of water conditioner so the tap water doesn't kill off the bacteria. I would skip the API stress coat though as it reads as API ammo lock plus aloe vera (for fish slime coat health).

 

[Lea82]

The stress coat is a conditioner as well??

 

[Delapool]

Stress coat

http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?sectionid=1&catid=19&subcatid=102&id=652

Ammo lock

http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=654

Edit - as far as I can tell, stress coat is also a conditioner. Both will also remove any heavy metals.

 

[Lea82]

That's what I thought about stress coat.

 

[Lea82]

Hi guys, so to keep you posted with my tank Water has been clear since putting carbon back in filter. I thought the tank had finished it cycle on 20th march with no amm or nitrite level showing. Again the same results when tested in 23rd March but today the figs seem to be gasping again and gills working overtime and tests show:
ph:6.8
Amm:0
Nitrite:0.25
Nitrate:10
Gh:2
Kh:3

Soooo is this part of cycling? Order something else? The PH is slowly coming back down again!! So have ordered crushed coral, where in the c4 do I put the filter bag of it? Any other suggestions? Add salt? Is it safe to wash the biological stuff in tank water in filter yet? The polishing pad has debris on top of it. I am just about to do 50% WC...... This is driving me crazy!!

Kh:3

 

[Paul1792]

The (biobag?) of crushed coral should go in the chemical basket of your C4. Assuming your tank is cycled, you can remove the carbon and there should be enough room for Purigen and crushed coral. Maybe at first, if the bag of crushed coral is really big ........ forget about the Purigen for a while since it appears the coral may be needed in large quantity at first for "emergency" treatment.

Wow ...... I am sorry to hear about all this trouble you are having with your tank when it seems like you are doing everything right.

 

[Rak9378]

Sorry you're having so much trouble Lea. That nitrite reading is puzzling given that you had zeros for a couple of days. Did you do or add anything to the tank on that third day prior to doing the test? Can you remind me what fish you have? Also what test type are you using (sorry if this is already mentioned in the thread)?

 

[Paul1792]

Lea - do you have an update for us?

Sorry you're having so much trouble Lea. That nitrite reading is puzzling given that you had zeros for a couple of days. Did you do or add anything to the tank on that third day prior to doing the test? Can you remind me what fish you have? Also what test type are you using (sorry if this is already mentioned in the thread)?

*******
Lea, you had one of the most puzzling set of issues I've seen on here. Were you able to resolve all issues ....... or at least most of them ?