High calcium

[Hara]

I had asked about the substrate because people that use crushed coral usually have a higher calcium level....but you use sand. I do not think the shells you put in there had much time to change anything.

 

[tbrock]

I use the aquarium pharmacuticals calcium test kit. So, for any of you who use the same kit, tell me if i am doing this wrong. I add ten drops of solution 2 and then shake it up in the test tube. then i add ten more and shake it up again. then i start going by twos. After the first two drops the top of the solution turns to the color shown on the insturctions. But, then i shake it up and it jsut turns kinda purplish. so, am i supposed to be shaking the solution or just looking at what color it changes to right as i add the drops? I know this is a dumb question but i jsut want to make sure i am not messign it up.

 

[steve-s]

I thought aragamilk was supposed to keep calcium, ph, and alkalinity at a balance, not just raise them

It will do both but only to a point. If you do not know what the starting point of your chemistry is along with the rate of depletion, you cannot know what to add. Balanced additives can only be used effectively when the chemistry is balanced before you start using them. They cannot be used in unison to correct chemistry imbalances unless added seperately. With the argamilk, it's an all in one much like klakwasser. So all levels are impacted equally. You also need to understand that the usage within the tank will not be balanced (kind of a kicker there) and the level will never remain balanced over the long run. More often than not in a properly controlled environment one side of the chemistry will only need tweeking occassionally. If you are not properly testing all aspects of the chemistry along with monitoring depletion, you quickly end up with problems.

Correct me if I'm wrong (i probably am), but i was told in a different post a while back that good alkalinity kept the ph buffering at the level it sshould be. My ph is perfectly fine now, so would that mean that my alkalinity is to?

Alkalinity helps prevent drops in pH from excess acids produced within the system. Alkalinity and pH are very much linked but the level of alk does not directly dictate where the pH will settle. You can easily have an alk of 2-3 mEq/l with a pH of 8.2 or an alk of 4-4.5 and still have the same pH reading taken at the same time of day. Never rely on pH as a guage for alk or vise versa. You could easily damage the tanks ecosystem.

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

Ok, thanks for the explination steve-s, I'm finally starting to understand this stuff. Nevermind about my post about if i was using the test kit correctly, i read the instructions more carefully, and found odt i was doing it right. i did a 25% water change yesterday and today and calcium is still high. Is there anything beside water changes that lower it? One moer question, is KH the same thing as alkalinity? Thanks again

 

[steve-s]

i did a 25% water change yesterday and today and calcium is still high. Is there anything beside water changes that lower it?

Not without knowing your alk. Your original post said you had a 520 ppm reading, what number value was it after the water change?

As soon as you get the alk test though, please post the reading of your tanks alk as well as your saltmix's alk/Ca.

One moer question, is KH the same thing as alkalinity?

Yes but be wary of test kits that are sold as KH kits and not alkalinity. Bit of a peeve of mine but these usually end up being fairly innacurate or hard to be prescise, more commonly manufactured by FW companies. Also be sure the kit reports actual numbered values, not low/normal/high, that would be useless, especially with your problem.

Cheers
Steve

 

[bawla47]

hey tbrock, after each drop, you need to shake the tube to disperse the color, and stop once its blue that matches the instructions.

 

[tbrock]

Calcium hastn changed at all since ive done the water changes, it is still 520. I'm using oceanic salt, do you think i should switch. It wouldnt be easy to switch salts becasue the only brand my fish store has is oceanic.

 

[tbrock]

Would high clacium levels be harmful to an anemone? I plan on getting an anemone once my levels are all right, I'm just wondering if it would be harmful at all. And after i get an alk test and know the alk, how woulld I change the calcium, or alk, then? by adding seperate additves?

 

[seaham358]

IMO No way on the sea shell causing a algae issue.. If that was the case we could not have any hermits or snails or clams in the tank.. Why you ask because they all have sea shells.
The Ph can be fine and the ca and alk can be off you need test kits for them all and need to get a 2 part additive to help keep ca and alk in check. Unless you use kalkwas then that will do both.
how about the reading on your water?? Phosphate, nitrate... Test the water and you will help narrow the search for the problem down... IMO this is where you need to start..

 

[seaham358]

Your going in too many directions here... You have 2 issues right? High ca and cyno??
I posted way back that oceanic can run high in ca over 500... TEST your new salt water if its 500+ then all your doing is keeping the Ca up.. And IMO its not critical.
Have you tested for Alk yet??? You need to if you didn't. Ca and alk need to work together...
Cyno you need to test for PO4.
Anenone is way down the road... Do not even think about one right now. How old is your tank? IMO you should not even think about one until the tank is 8-9 months old with no issues. They are delicate creatures and need great water quality.

 

[tbrock]

Ok the only reason i asked about the shells is because they came straight form the ocean. I havnt tested alk yet because there is no where around here that i can get a test kit. I will be going to a bigger city soon that has a better fish store with a wider variety of test kits. My tank is 8 months old and i have never had any problems until now. I know the calcium is not critical but i want to get it right so i can keep it that way. Other than the calcium, there are no issues with my tank, other than the cyano which im sure i will be able to get rid of soon. So, even if calcium is not critical, can it hurt an anemone if it is a litle high?

 

[steve-s]

How long have you used the Oceanic and what did you use before?

I would highly suggest testing a freshly made batch of your SW after mixing and aerating for a good day. Please post alk, Ca, pH and Mg as all will be needed to make an informed response. If you do not have one of these types, get your LFS to do it for you. There are also several places online these kits can be aquired at relatively small exspense. Keep in mind each one will last close to a year if not longer. It is a necessary exspense, especially if keeping invertebrates.

Oceanic has been linked to several algae blooms, more commonly cyano and diatoms so there is a good chance it is your root cause. You also made mention awhile back that you use only flake foods for feeding. While there's nothing truely wrong with it's use, it can be an overwhelming source of organic PO4 which will fuel cyano unending. Many types of freeze dried and flake foods are augmented with a vitamin C substitute (L-Ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate) that is loaded with organic PO4 as is store bought fresh and frozen seafoods (tri-polyphosphate). Although you haven't mentioned the size or type of the "sea shell" you aquired, it is possible for it to contribute to the problem albeit very small. As it dissolves, it will release any elements it deposited in it's growth, including PO4.

If after a large 25% water change there has been no drop in your Ca levels, this tells me there is one of three problems. The salt is designed to have that level of Ca, the alk is extremely low and/or the Mg levels are too low allowing Ca to climb independantly. None of which can be solved without knowing the results of the above tests.

As far as your question regarding the anemone, high Ca will not directly impact the anemones health but there is no way of knowing how it will impact the ecosystem thereby indirectly affecting the anemone as well as the rest of your animals. You need to get the chemistry issue solved before you consider any new animal additions.

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

I have been using oceanic salt for eight months, the whole tim ei have had the tank set up. So the salt could be the cause of the high calcium AND the algae bloom? About the shells, i had abotu 15 1-2" in diameter and a few small ones. I will mix some water later and test it. I need both mg and alk test kits? I'll get whatever i need i just want to make sure. I will wait on the anemeone. Thanks for your help

 

[steve-s]

So the salt could be the cause of the high calcium AND the algae bloom?

Yes, possibley in both circumstances.

About the shells, i had abotu 15 1-2" in diameter and a few small ones.

Given the size, I don't think they'll be an issue. I thought it may be a large decorative center piece which isn't the case.

I will mix some water later and test it. I need both mg and alk test kits?

Mg test kits are rarely needed but if you do not have an LFS able to test it for you it would be a worthy inverstment. It will most likely last you a few years so money well spent IME. The alk test is essential.

I will wait on the anemeone

Kudo's

Cheers
Steve

 

[tbrock]

Will keeping the lights off more during the day for a while help get rid of the algae? I know i have to figure out where it is coming from but i need a way to get rid of whats already in the tank. My lfs isnt really isn't even a fish store it is more for other pets. The owneer is kinda learning as she goes and has no magnesium or alk test kits. she didnt really know what she was talking about when it came to ordering me an alk test kit so i decided i wold get it a different way.

 

[seaham358]

Order kits online...... You need a Phosphate kit also.... Alk and Ca are a must IMO Mag is not a must have but is not a bad idea.
If your using oceanic you Mag may be around 1300-1600 and your Ca 450-500 alk runs a little low with this salt. So you will need to use aditives down the line when you get things in order.
Wait a few months till you get the hang of keeping the tank balanced then think about an anemone.
What do yuo have in the tank? fish, corals?
Shutting off the lights will get rid of cyno but it would take weeks to do it . When I first set up my fuge it was covered in cyno so I took out the caluerpa and shut the lights off for 2 or 3 weeks? I turned them back on when it was gone.
But it may not work in all cases if you have high phosphates then shutting off the lights is only a temp fix.

 

[tbrock]

My lfs does have a phosphate kit. If phosphate is high, what would i do to lower it? My phosphate is probably high because of the algae right?

 

[seaham358]

that would be my first guess.. Do you use tap or ro/di... if ro then it could be your food or the amount you feed.... Lets get the test kit and we'll go from there...

 

[tbrock]

i use ro/di water. I just tested the calcium in saltwater not in the tank and it was way high. 25 drops of the solution is 520 and i did 27 and it still wasnt the color it is supposed to be to know the amount of calcium. My sisters boyfreind also uses oceanic salt an his calcium is fine. how could that be? Water made iwth his salt out of the tank would have to be high in calcium too wouldnt it? I cant test the alk yet obviously because i dont have the test kit .

 

[seaham358]

Have someone else test you Ca.. Kits do go bad.. I have heard that they had a batches of Salt with very high Ca... I think they had some issues with this salt along the way.. A few guys in yhe reef club Im in stopped using it because of this..How old was that water when you tested it?? Wait at least 24 hours on fresh made water and see if its any better.. I have a week old batch made I;ll test it and see what mine is..