I need help with tank cycle.

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Boogiesmom14

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Sep 12, 2022
Messages
1
Im looking for some help/advice! We have a 55 gallon african cichlid tank. Tank is 9 weeks old. Unfortunately we are doing an in fish cycle. Bad advice was given. We have 10 peacock cichlids in the tank. All about 3 inches. All fine and thriving. Only feed a small amount every other day currently. However my tank is just now cycling. Theres an algea bloom i believe. Brown algea on glass and the decor. And some green algea on the sand. Tank has gone cloudy. Currently have a HOB filter and a canister filter running. I did steal a cup of substrate from an established tank on Friday. PH is 7.8. Temp is 79. Daily dose of seachem prime.
My questions:
Can i redo the decor while its cycling? Not remove anything just reorganize.
Can i remove the algea while its cycling?
Why did i have nitrates before the tank cycled and why are they higher now? Is that from my few live plants i have?
Should i do a small water change? Mixed advice given on that too.
Worried the nitrates will get too high before the tank fully cycles.

The cichlid group i am in is really no help. I have done a lot of research after i learned i shouldn't of done a fish in cycle.

Sorry for the long post! Just worried. Spent alot of time and money and want the fish as safe as possible. Thanks!
 
Ill post a thorough method of doing a fish in cycle.

To answer a few questions though.

If your decor is allowed to dry out for any appreciable amount of time you might kill of some beneficial bacteria that has grown on the surfaces. If you clean the glass of algae you might dislodge some beneficial bacteria into the water. This might have some negative effect on your cycles progress, but probably minimal.

Nitrate isnt something that suddenly appears when your cycle is completed. Its a process. Ammonia turns to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. Part way through the cycle there will be a stage where some ammonia turns to nitrite and some of that nitrite turns to nitrate. As your cycle progresses, more of the ammonia turns to nitrate. Also nitrate builds up as it doesnt get cycled out, so nitrate will increase over time if you arent doing water changes. Onto that later.

Plants dont produce nitrate. When they consume ammonia it goes into their growth, it doesnt turn to nitrate as it would through denitrifying bacteria. Plants consume nitrate the same as they do ammonia. This might be a lot of ammonia/ nitrate consumption if you have lots of fast growing plants, or very little consumption if you have a few slow growing plants. But overall plants have a negative effect on nitrate.

There also might be nitrate in your tapwater and that could be what you are seeing. Its common for tapwater to have some nitrate in it

You should absolutely do water changes during a fish in cycle, and these water changes should be dictated by your testing. What used to happen is people stocked a tank with fish, changed a little water occasionally, when fish died they replaced them. When they stopped dying you are cycled. This is where fish in cycles getting a bad rep is from. More is understood about the nitrogen cycle and toxicity. Your priority should be the health of your fish and changing water is essential to keep your fish healthy during a fish in cycle. But it should be controlled. Keeping the water clean enough to not harm your fish while leaving enough waste to cycle the tank. This will be covered in the fish in cycle process ill post.

I wouldnt worry too much about nitrate. The water changes you should be doing will keep your nitrate at safe levels. Nitrate can get pretty high anyway and not be a risk to the health of your fish.

And finally. There is nothing wrong with doing a fish in cycle. Its perfectly safe if done properly.
 
To cycle a tank you need to grow denitrifying bacteria to consume ammonia and nitrite that your tank produces. The bacteria needs an ammonia source to grow colonies sufficient in size to consume all the ammonia and resultant nitrite and turn it into nitrate which typically you remove through your regular water changes.

A fish in cycle uses fish waste as an ammonia source and regular water changes are undertaken to ensure that water parameters are maintained at relatively non toxic levels.

Set up your tank. Make sure everything is running smoothly. Make sure you have used a water conditioner product with any tap water you have put in your tank. Seachem Prime is a water conditioner that will also detoxify some ammonia for a day or two, so is a good choice for a water conditioner while cycling a tank with fish.

You should have a test kit. Preferably a liquid test kit. It should test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

In ideal circumstances you should be starting a fishless cycle with a low bioload (number of fish). 1 small fish per 10 gallons/40 litres is a good number of fish, but this can be tweaked a little for fish that are social and don’t do well on their own. Ideally a hardy type of fish. You may have fully stocked (or overstocked) your tank before you knew about cycling. In these circumstances, if its not possible to return fish, you will have to make the best of it.

If you haven’t already done so, add your fish. Acclimate them to the water in your tank before doing so.

Feed lightly to start with. Daily as much as is eaten in 2 minutes, or as much as is eaten in 3 minutes every 2 days. You can increase to full feedings if you are confident your parameters aren’t getting too elevated too quickly and water changes don’t become a daily thing.

Start to regularly test the water for ammonia and nitrite. At least daily. Depending on your bioload you could start to see ammonia quite quickly. Nitrite will likely take a little longer to appear.

Your target should be to keep ammonia + nitrite combined no higher than 0.5ppm by changing water whenever your water parameters exceed this target. 0.5ppm combined is a level of waste that is sufficient for your cycle to establish but relatively safe for your fish.

If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.0ppm nitrite (0.5ppm combined) then leave things be. If you see 0.5ppm ammonia and 0.25ppm nitrite (0.75ppm combined) then change 1/3 of the water. If you see 0.25ppm ammonia and 0.75ppm nitrite (1.0ppm combined) then change 1/2 the water. If water parameters get worse than these levels it may require multiple daily 50% water changes to maintain safe water conditions. This is more likely to happen with a fully stocked tank.

Remember to add water conditioner whenever you put tap water in the tank.

Over time the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change to maintain your ammonia + nitrite combined target will reduce. You can also start testing for nitrate and should see this rising. If you are finding the ammonia and nitrite in your tests are consistently low, and you aren’t already fully stocked, you can add a few more fish. It may take a few weeks to get to this point.

Once you add a few more fish, continue to regularly test the water and continue to change water if you exceed the 0.5ppm combined ammonia + nitrite target. With added bioload the frequency of water changes and amount you need to change may increase again until your cycle has caught up. Again once you are consistently seeing low ammonia and nitrite you can add some more fish. Rinse and repeat with testing, water changes, and adding fish when safe to do so until you are fully stocked.

You can then cut back on water changes to control nitrate only. Typically you want to keep nitrate no higher than 40ppm, but I would recommend changing some water every 2 weeks even if your water test says you don’t need to.

A fish in cycle from an empty tank to fully stocked can take several months.

A good way to speed up this process would be to put a small amount of filter media from an established filter into your filter, or get a sponge from an established filter and squeeze it into your tank water. Perhaps you have a friend who keeps fish who could let you have some? This will seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow and speed up the process.

Another option is bottled bacteria like Dr Tims One + Only or Tetra Safestart. These products wont instantly cycle a tank as they claim but in a similar manner to adding established filter media they can seed your filter with the bacteria you are trying to grow to establish your cycle. These products are hit and miss as to whether they work at all, but are an option if established filter media isnt obtainable and may speed up the process from several months to several weeks.
 
Back
Top Bottom