KH-PH Co2 chart, plus Bubbles per minute

[sudz]

Hi all,

Just got a CO2 Setup for my tank. Hooked it in with the light timers.

I have a few questions, Mostly relating to the Co2 levels.

There's charts to calculate Co2 levels... My tank (without Co2) is a PH of 8.1, and a KH of 8 Degrees (142ppm?)

This puts me at like... 1ppm of Co2. Is that even possible?

Is this a huge indicator that the Co2 is needed, or are BOTH my PH testers whack?

I have a Digital PH tester, and my API High Range PH tester. My digital PH tester is typically 0.1 higher than what the API high range tester shows.

Also, I started out with 15 bubbles per minute. Super low, but my reactor (RedSea 500) is still spitting out the occasional bubble. I assume that as long as there is Co2 in the reactor, then the bubble count doesn't REALLY matter.

Is this correct or not?

the Co2 ran for about 2 hours before the lights shut off.

I should also mention I'm fighting (successfully) a Blue Green alage infection (cyanobacteria)

I have DIY LED fixture, 34 watts of Cree XP-G Led Lights. No Optics as its only 3 inches from the waters surface.

So... what do you guys recommend? Any words of advice?

 

[Billbug68]

Testing ph and kh in your tank water is a fairly inaccurate way to find your co2 levels. Theres too many other things in your tank that can effect these numbers giving you false readings. Use a drop checker, 4dkh solution, and 3 drops of your low range ph test solution. Here's the links if you wanna take a look.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=350637683160&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=32960010635

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330801067972&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=91351479039

 

[aqua_chem]

The KH/pH/CO2 relationship is at best an indirect measurement, and at worst not at all useful. It makes a number of assumptions that are invalidated if any other non-bicarbonate buffers are present in your water, which is an entirely likely situation unfortunately.

I underscore what bill said about drop checkers, as they directly measure CO2, although they do not do so particularly precisely.

You can check for leaks in your CO2 line leading up to your reactor. Some people use soapy water for this (I tend to use windex). Another quick test you can do is to test your pH before the CO2 comes on, and then 2-3 hours after it comes on. You should see a pH drop that's independent of other water chemistry if CO2 is properly diffusing.

 

[CorallineAlgae]

Bill and Aqua are dead right about the chart and using the drop checker plus 4dKH solution.

The Red Sea 500 reactor works so much better if you turn the flow dial on the pump down to about half and no more. Any higher and it'll throw the co2 out of the vortex chamber. I used one for years. It's meant to be dialed down. You should see an improvement in performance pretty quickly.

 

[sudz]

Thanks! I'll turn the reactor down. what about my bubble per minute rate? I wanted to start low and work my way up. is 15 per minute a low but register-able rate?

 

[aqua_chem]

Seems pretty low, but it obviously depends on the size of the tank at hand. 2 bps (120 bpm) is a reasonable rate for a 40g tank, but it depends on a number of different factors.

 

[sudz]

75 gallon.

But... if there is still co2 in the reactor, will increasing my Bubbles per second matter?

 

[sudz]

I've ordered a Drop Checker. Will probably take a month to arrive.

So far, I've only noticed a .3 drop in PH.

Also, my Reactor is missing its suction cups, so it won't stay upright. I need to create a mount for it. In the mean time, I just put it into the nozzle of my Powerhead. Its able to spew tiny bubbles about half the length of the tank (2 out of 4 feet)

No Pearling yet, but I have all easy to grow low/medium light plants.

 

[aqua_chem]

What kind of reactor are you running?

 

[sudz]

Red Sea 500.

But because of the lack of suction cups, I've removed it and put the Co2 Hose into my powerhead nozzle.

Going to make some sort of Clamp for it. Maybe involving an old magnetic algae scraper.