Macro versus Micro C02 dosing - Questions

[KidFish]

Looking to gain a little knowledge via AA.

I'm looking to start dosing, and possibly use c02 injection on my 29 gallon tank. I have a few questions... Some embarrassing. please bare with me im trying to do this tank with a better understanding than a couple of my previous.

1) what test kit should i use? I only used one that came with a kit to test my first parameters, now i water change weekly and haven't checked it.

2) dosing wise i know there is micro and macro, I use prime to neutralize the hard metals and take care of chlorine but what else should i be dosing and what exactly is it doing to my tank..?

3) I know there are DIY C02. I'm running a pretty low tech tank, would this be a good option or should i skip to C02 Injection?

4) how do you guys hide all your stuff..? my tank is starting to look kindof bad with a big heater in there and the filter tube down in the tank.. how do you guys hide your things?

5) can i have a longer break with my lights (i.e. they are on 8 hours a day with a two hour break mid day, could i do say 10 hours a day with a four hour break? or is that bad for stress levels in the fish?

I really appreciate the help given on here, if you have any insight on any of these things please don't feel like you have to answer them all. Thanks everyone.

 

[ImACoolguy]

Looking to gain a little knowledge via AA.



I'm looking to start dosing, and possibly use c02 injection on my 29 gallon tank. I have a few questions... Some embarrassing. please bare with me im trying to do this tank with a better understanding than a couple of my previous.



1) what test kit should i use? I only used one that came with a kit to test my first parameters, now i water change weekly and haven't checked it.



2) dosing wise i know there is micro and macro, I use prime to neutralize the hard metals and take care of chlorine but what else should i be dosing and what exactly is it doing to my tank..?



3) I know there are DIY C02. I'm running a pretty low tech tank, would this be a good option or should i skip to C02 Injection?



4) how do you guys hide all your stuff..? my tank is starting to look kindof bad with a big heater in there and the filter tube down in the tank.. how do you guys hide your things?



5) can i have a longer break with my lights (i.e. they are on 8 hours a day with a two hour break mid day, could i do say 10 hours a day with a four hour break? or is that bad for stress levels in the fish?



I really appreciate the help given on here, if you have any insight on any of these things please don't feel like you have to answer them all. Thanks everyone.

It's alright we have all been there.

1. API Liquid Test Kit. Very common kit that's only about $30 and lasts a long time.

2. Dose Flourish(carbon, nutrients), Flourish Excel(micros), API LeafZone(macros). Some also dose other stuff like potassium and iron. This should be fine for your tank size. Larger tanks use dry ferts to save money.

3. If it's just low tech I wouldn't worry about it unless you really want it.

4. Get tall plants. Some people use fake plants to take the heat/suction of the filter. Jungle vals are a good tall plant.

5. Some people do a break. Like 4 hours on - 1 hour off - 4 more hours on - off. Above 8 hours you risk some algae coming in.

Hope this helps




Caleb

Sent via TARDIS

 

[Rpeinhardt]

1) API kits are cheap and good enough.

2) Depending on what substrate you are using, among other factors, you may not need to fertilize. The simplest way is to use a bottle of, say, Flourish. For a low tech tank, that's as involved as you need to get.

3) DIY and high pressure cylinders are both "injection." DIY is great for starting out. The risks and costs are low and you learn a lot. I recommend you start there.

4) I put it all in my sump. The only equipment in my display tank is a small overflow box and the return pipe.

5. Sounds reasonable but you'd have to see if you develop algae. A lot about this hobby is trial and error because everyone's situation is different.

 

[azmodan]

1. As already mentioned the API Master Test Kit. For planted tanks it is very helpful to know what your nitrates are running at. Many people also get a separate test kit for phosphates as well, although in many lowtech situations this is not as important.

2. Planted tanks need a balance of light, ferts (both macro and micro), and co2/carbon in order to be successful. Let's start off with the ferts mentioned:

Seachem Flourish Comprehensive - trace elements and other micro nutrients
API Leafzone - Potassium and Iron (two important macro nutrients)
Seachem Flourish Excel - An organic carbon source for plants, sort of a less effective but still very useful alternative to pressurized co2. Also a good algaecide.

These three things form a solid base of ferts and carbon for a lowtech tank, although there is a lack of other important macro nutrients that will limit some of your plant selection. Going high tech will likely mean needing a more comprehensive fert regiments, found typically in dry fert dosing systems like PPS-Pro or Estimative Index.

3. Pressurized/DIY co2 just depends on what your goals are. Assuming your light is strong enough and you're willing to devote some effort into fertilizing your plants then adding co2 is a great idea as it will truly open up a TON in which you can do with planted tanks. However, that also means more money and especially TIME (researching, cleaning algae, trimming, doing water waters, testing, etc). It is an extremely rewarding challenge but definitely not for everyone. If you're just wanting to keep a simple lowtech tank right now with minimal maintenance then I'd skip the co2 and just get a bottle of Excel (or it's generic equivalent Metricide). Once you get a good hang of the lowtech side of things you can always go high tech later too.

4. Hiding stuff requires some creativity. You can hide in-tank by simply placing plants/decor in front of heaters and so forth. Many people use canister filters for planted tanks, this allows them to run an inline diffuser for co2 and an inline heater so there is less equipment in the tank. Glass lily pipes help to hide ugly tubes/inputs/outputs but can be a pain to clean. Having a black background with, say, a black heater or filter tube can help to hide it as well.

5. A break in the photoperiod is fine.

2. Dose Flourish(carbon, nutrients), Flourish Excel(micros), API LeafZone(macros). Some also dose other stuff like potassium and iron.


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS

I think you got some of those mixed up.

Seachem Flourish Comprehensive - trace elements and other micro nutrients
API Leafzone - Potassium and Iron (two important macro nutrients, but still missing other important macros like nitrogen and phosphorus)
Seachem Flourish Excel - An organic carbon source for plants, sort of a less effective but still very useful alternative to pressurized co2. Also a good algaecide.

 

[ImACoolguy]

1. As already mentioned the API Master Test Kit. For planted tanks it is very helpful to know what your nitrates are running at. Many people also get a separate test kit for phosphates as well, although in many lowtech situations this is not as important.

2. Planted tanks need a balance of light, ferts (both macro and micro), and co2/carbon in order to be successful. Let's start off with the ferts mentioned:

Seachem Flourish Comprehensive - trace elements and other micro nutrients
API Leafzone - Potassium and Iron (two important macro nutrients)
Seachem Flourish Excel - An organic carbon source for plants, sort of a less effective but still very useful alternative to pressurized co2. Also a good algaecide.

These three things form a solid base of ferts and carbon for a lowtech tank, although there is a lack of other important macro nutrients that will limit some of your plant selection. Going high tech will likely mean needing a more comprehensive fert regiments, found typically in dry fert dosing systems like PPS-Pro or Estimative Index.

3. Pressurized/DIY co2 just depends on what your goals are. Assuming your light is strong enough and you're willing to devote some effort into fertilizing your plants then adding co2 is a great idea as it will truly open up a TON in which you can do with planted tanks. However, that also means more money and especially TIME (researching, cleaning algae, trimming, doing water waters, testing, etc). It is an extremely rewarding challenge but definitely not for everyone. If you're just wanting to keep a simple lowtech tank right now with minimal maintenance then I'd skip the co2 and just get a bottle of Excel (or it's generic equivalent Metricide). Once you get a good hang of the lowtech side of things you can always go high tech later too.

4. Hiding stuff requires some creativity. You can hide in-tank by simply placing plants/decor in front of heaters and so forth. Many people use canister filters for planted tanks, this allows them to run an inline diffuser for co2 and an inline heater so there is less equipment in the tank. Glass lily pipes help to hide ugly tubes/inputs/outputs but can be a pain to clean. Having a black background with, say, a black heater or filter tube can help to hide it as well.

5. A break in the photoperiod is fine.




I think you got some of those mixed up.

Seachem Flourish Comprehensive - trace elements and other micro nutrients
API Leafzone - Potassium and Iron (two important macro nutrients, but still missing other important macros like nitrogen and phosphorus)
Seachem Flourish Excel - An organic carbon source for plants, sort of a less effective but still very useful alternative to pressurized co2. Also a good algaecide.

Didn't have my bottles on me to double check my bad.


Caleb

Sent via TARDIS

 

[KidFish]

thanks for the awesome information! I'll get everything next pay check and update my 29 gallon journal... thing... Keep a look out!

I'll also check on that photoperiod, trail and error

 

[KidFish]

FYI I got all the aformentioned!

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