Need help with ph any advice?

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Ilikefish66

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
6
I'm having problems keeping my ph above 6.0 and ammonia Down I've bought tons of chemicals but they all failed me
 
More info will be needed.

Tank size?
Tank stock (fish list if any)?
Is your tank cycling?
How long has the tank been set up?
What are you toxin levels?
What are the toxin levels of the water you use for PWCs?
What is the pH of the water you use for PWCs?
What is the pH of the same water after 24hrs of bubbling in a container?
What chemicals have you been using?
What is you water change schedule?

I'm sure there's more questions but that should give folks a start.
 
30 gallon I have two filters running a 50 gal and a 30 gal my ammonia was high so I used amquel plus ammonia detoxifier I have a gravel cleaner running and a bubbler I have 1 tetra 1 tiger something 2 pocumus 3 baby corys and a assorted Cory catfish I feed them Algae wafers shrimp pellets and fish flakes the fish are happy my ph levels are 5.9 or so and dropping
 
Dont know what pwc is and 2 weeks ago did a full water change before I bought all my fish because all the other fish died. The ph was 7.2 ish then and has dropped every day since
 
Ok. How long has the tank been set up and running with fish?
Do you own a test kit to test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?
When was the last PWC (partial water change)?
Do you know what cycling a tank is?
Have you read the link I provided above?

Basically your tank is cycling. It is causing the pH to crash. Adding crushed coral to the filter will help keep it stable. You have a lot of problems with your tank. It's cycling and incorrectly stocked I'm sorry.
 
Last edited:
What's cycling and what do you mean by incorrectly stocked I did a 25 % water change this morning and it's getting better
 
Ilikefish66 said:
What's cycling and what do you mean by incorrectly stocked I did a 25 % water change this morning and it's getting better

Please read the link I provided. Very important.
Cycling is the process if growing bacteria in your filter to process the fishes waste. One type of bacteria grows and eats the ammonia turning it into nitrite, then another type grow and eats the nitrite and turns it into nitrate. The nitrate is then removed by weekly water changes. When you first set up a tank there are no bacteria so the ammonia your fish produce keeps building and it's your job to keep it low with water changes until the bacteria grow. It takes 4-8 weeks on average to cycle a tank. The article above explains the two ways to cycle a tank. What you are doing is a fish in cycle. When ammonia or nitrite is 0.25ppm or more you need to do a water change to bring it down and keep your fish safe. High ammonia and nitrite can burn gills and eyes, cause disfigurement and sometimes death. It also causes stress that lowers the fishes immune system leaving them open to disease.
 
Fish turn fish food into ammonia. Ammonia is poisonous to fish. So you have to get the ammonia out of the tank.

The best way to get ammonia out of your tank is with some (what I'll call) ammonia bacteria. They eat the ammonia and turn it into nitrite.

But nitrite is also poisonous to fish. The best way to get nitrite out of your tank is with some (what I'll call) nitrite bacteria. They convert nitrite into nitrate.

Now nitrate is simply fertilizer. It's not hazardous to fish until it gets like 100 times more concentrated than levels of ammonia that can kill a fish. But before nitrates get to that level, you do a pwc (partial water change) to lower the nitrate levels. A pwc is when you remove SOME of the water in your tank (10% to 50%) and replace it with fresh water.

Now you don't have to go out and buy ammonia and nitrite bacteria. They already live all around us. But it takes a while (like 4 to 6 to 8 weeks) before they can establish a large enough colony in your tank to convert the ammonia the fish create into nitrates. The process of growing these bacteria colonies is known as cycling a tank.

For now, you need to buy an ammonia test kit and a nitrite test kit (you might as well get a nitrate test kit while you are at it). Get the liquid kind, not the test strips or test meters. What you will need to do is test the water in your tank every day for ammonia and nitrite. If either gets too high, (say above 1.0 ppm or so) you need to do a pwc to get those levels back down. In the early stages of cycling a tank, depending upon how many fish are in the tank and how much you feed them, you might have to do pwc every day to keep levels low enough.
 
Ilikefish66 said:
30 gallon I have two filters running a 50 gal and a 30 gal my ammonia was high so I used amquel plus ammonia detoxifier I have a gravel cleaner running and a bubbler I have 1 tetra 1 tiger something 2 pocumus 3 baby corys and a assorted Cory catfish I feed them Algae wafers shrimp pellets and fish flakes the fish are happy my ph levels are 5.9 or so and dropping

What I mean by incorrectly stocked is by the following.
All tetras need schools of their own kind. 6 is the recommended number. Without a school of its own kind a tetra can become stressed, which leads to disease or premature death. It is 'hardwired' into them to feel safer in schools because that's what they do in the wild to protect themselves from predators.
Tiger barbs are the same as tetras. They need schools of their own kind of 6 or more. (reason above) They are known to be nippy towards tank mates. This behavior is increased when there is less of them.
I am assuming here that your plecos are common plecos. They grow to 2 foot long and require a 125g tank. Fish do not grow to the size of the tank. What happens is stunting. Stunting can cause disfigurement, increased chance of disease and premature death.
Cories are schooling fish. (see above)

I'm not picking on you in anyway. :) I am trying to help you make your tank a happy healthy environment for you and your fish to enjoy.
 
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