New tank fish in cycle PH rising

[pietro beretta]

Hello Everyone,

"Long time listener, first time caller."

I got excited during the holiday season and got myself a setup. I just couldn't wait and am doing a fish in cycle.

Right now I am waiting for my cycle to start. I ended up doing my research too late as now I believe I have put myself on a long road for this cycle.

Here is my dilemma: My NH's, NO2 & NO3 register 0ppm using the API master test kit but my pH has been rising it went from 7.0 to 7.8 over 7 days.

Right now I have H Rasboras that must be super uncomfortable in this pH.

It would seem my only option is to do a water change as my tap has a ph of 7.0 which sucks since I don't even have any NH built up to start getting good bacteria, and I am sure the plants have a good something to do with eating up my ammonia , doh!



Here is what I have done so far:

1/3: Setup: Playsand CaribSea FloraMax mix. Tap Water + Top Fin Tap Water Dechlorinator
1/4: API Tests: ALL ZEROH:7 24 hours steady temp. Planted Spiral Val, Amazon Sword, Dwarf Baby Tears, 2ML - Floush Seachem
1/5: API Tests: ALL ZEROH:7 48 hours steady temp. Fish-in cycle: 10 H. Rasboras, 1 Red Dwarf Gourami
1/6: API Tests: ALL ZEROH:7.2
1/7: API Tests: ALL ZEROH:7.6
1/8: API Tests: ALL ZEROH:7.6
1/9: API Tests: ALL ZEROH:7.8



Here is my setup:



Substrate: Sand, CaribSea FloraMax mix

Heater: Cobalt Aquatics Accu-Therm 300W

Filtration: Cascade 700 (185GPH)

Circulation/arriation: 1- Aqueon 500 Blower

Aquarium:
Aqueon 36 Gallon Bow Front Glass - 32.2" x 18" x 22.7"
Aqueon Versa-Top

Light:
Aqueon LED Modualr Aquarium Light Fixture, 30-Inch Three Lamps
Single 18W 6,700K Daylight T5 Fluorescent Lamp




Plants:
Amazon Sword
Spiral Val
Dwarf Baby tears

Fish:
Harlequin Rasbora 10
Red Dwarf Gourami 1

Misc:
Drift wood (pet store bought)
Granite Rocks, medium-large (pet store bought)

 

[Mrs.h2012]

I could be wrong... But maybe the rocks is making your pH rise? I'm going looking for rocks out of a creek tomorrow and I've been reading on how to clean them, I've read certain rocks raise pH. Also in confused as to how all your tests are
0 with all the fish you have.

 

[pietro beretta]

I could be wrong... But maybe the rocks is making your pH rise? I'm going looking for rocks out of a creek tomorrow and I've been reading on how to clean them, I've read certain rocks raise pH. Also in confused as to how all your tests are
0 with all the fish you have.

I know right! I thought I would go three days before the ammonia spike but its been seven and nada, I have been doing the tests correctly - double and triple checking. Then again, the fish swimming around speak for themselves.

I really think my plants may be eating up the ammonia not allowing my cycle to start?

 

[cmbtengnr43]

I have granite rocks in my 75 gallon said cichlid tank doesn't effect my phone

 

[cmbtengnr43]

Ph sorry

 

[pietro beretta]

Would Carbon Dioxide Deficiency in the plants cause the ph to rise?

I ask this because my spiral val is not looking too hot, my amazon sword and baby tears look fine. My baby tears would be better if my gourami would let it grow and stop trying to eat it.

 

[cmbtengnr43]

I wouldn't think so usually carbon dioxide abbundence increases ph but I could be wrong

 

[blert]

Test the pH of your tap water:
Test straight out of tap and then leave a shallow bowl out for 24 hours, stirring occasionally, and test again after the 24 hours. This will tell you the true pH of your tap water. After you have this info we can start contemplating if there is something in your tank effecting the pH.

During "cycling" the pH can be wonky. Nothing to worry about unless it trends to dropping into the low sixes. Your fish will be fine, they will adjust themselves to your waters pH, within reason. 7.8 is not an issue.

It may well take a bit of time before ammonia is detectable depending on tank size and load. Just keep testing daily.

Some plants may die off a bit when first planted as they are acclimating and likely trying to transition from emersed to submersed growth. It can be common so don't worry just yet, they should bounce back.

 

[librarygirl]

Hm, I would think you'd have some ammonia by now with that many fish. Are you adding drops from both ammonia bottles and doing it in the right order (bottle #1 first, then #2)? Also try shaking the ammonia bottles for a few seconds before you put the drops into the tube. Shake the tube for a few seconds and wait 5 minutes for the result.

Try the PH test as blert explained it; sometimes PH can change from what it is out of the tap after it settles.

 

[pietro beretta]

The pH of my Tap is 6.8

I finally had some readings today:
PH 7.8, NH 0.25, NO2 0.25, NO3 5.0 and my co2 concentration is about 1.4.

I did a 50% water change - I will keep an eye on the pH.

I have an AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini and diffuser coming my way to get my co2 levels up for my plants.

 

[cmbtengnr43]

The fact that you have both nitrites and nitrates means your tank is cycling just watch levels they should begin to fall and your nitrates should go up

 

[Mrs.h2012]

The fact that you have both nitrites and nitrates means your tank is cycling just watch levels they should begin to fall and your nitrates should go up

+1 to this. Basically anytime ammonia or nitrite get above .25 or nitrates (it will be a while before nitrates show up) above 20 its time for a water change.

 

[librarygirl]

Agreed, but nitrites are likely to rise more before they fall. The nitrite phase is the longest so it might be a few weeks before they drop and in the meantime they tend to spike fast, so keep testing and do water changes when the levels get over .25. At least things are progressing! I wouldn't worry about the PH; if it fluctuates too much then we can try to figure out what is going on, but most fish can adapt to the actual number, stability is more important. Best not to mess with PH as it can cause more harm than good in the long-run.

 

[pietro beretta]

New readings

Ph:6.4, NH:0.25, NO2:0.50, NO3: 5.0

50% water change.

 

[ktomminello]

Ph that low can cause irritation to your fish, though you do have some pretty hearty fish there- good news is you are definitely in your active cycling stage. If your ph keeps dropping you might want to do a pwc- plants will tend to drive your ph down- more important than where your ph is on the test is maintaining stable ph, just anything around or below 6 can damage fish and plants....

 

[librarygirl]

For the PH, bacteria prefer it at least at 7. When it starts to drop below 7, the nitrification phase can slow or stop. Since you're doing frequent water changes anyway it might not be too much of an issue now but you might want to look into getting some crushed coral or crushed argonite (sold at most fish stores in the saltwater section) and put a teaspoon or so in a media bag or clean (never washed with detergent) nylon stocking and put it into your filter. Keep adding/removing the coral until you can get the PH to stay about where your tap's PH is (7-7.4).

 

[pietro beretta]

More a readings:

1/13:
Ph 6.4, NH 0.25 NO2 0.25, NO3 5.0
50% water change.

1/14
Ph 6.6, NH 0, NO2 1.0-2.0, NO3 20
75% water change

 

[librarygirl]

PH seems to be falling some; I'd look into getting the crushed coral to add to your filter to try to stabilize the PH around 7.

 

[cmbtengnr43]

Yeah like library girl said they make substrates that buffer the ph you could add to your existing substrate or to your filter just be careful not to add too much lol

 

[ktomminello]

Crushed coral I have found to be high range ph buffer- might I suggest dolomite chips or crushed mollusk shells in a nylon stocking in your filter? I learned a lot about raising ph when I acclimated my puffer from fresh water to full salt and am basing my suggestion on my trial and error experience.