not the "usual" Algae problems

[JDogg]

ok we are all uses to the BBA, Cyno and spot algae post for help....

well i have what i think is thread algae (too much iron :? ???)

AND

either Green Beard Algae or Hair algae...

Params...
Ammonia/Nitrite = 0
NO3 = 30
PO4 = 3
PH = 6.8
KH = 13 degrees
that means ~62 ppm CO2 from my DIY set up

dosing... over the course of the week...
1/4 tsp KH2PO4
2 1/2 tsp KNO3
1 tsp KSO4
90 ml of CSM+B (a 3 tsp dry to 500 ml mix) this might be too much and contributing to the thread algae. what SHOULD i be dosing this at?

Light is 2.56 wpg T8 fluorescent

here are some pics, what can i do?

 

[rkilling1]

the CSM+B looks fine to me.

how is your maintenance? to you have a lot of dacaying organic wastes?

that's all I can think of.

 

[JDogg]

the CSM+B looks fine to me.

how is your maintenance?

50% pwc every week

to you have a lot of dacaying organic wastes?

that's all I can think of.

not that i can see,

 

[Glenc]

I don't know what to recommend, everything looks good. Maybe get a few Cherry barbs to snack on it. You may not be getting the C02 levels you think you are. I found that to be a problem with DIYC02, but only when running very high light, which you are not. When all else fails and I get any kind of stubborn algea, I cut the lights back for a while and it almost always works. Good luck!

 

[Purrbox]

How long has it been since you cleaned the filter and powerhead? Might just be a signal that they need a good cleaning.

 

[JDogg]

How long has it been since you cleaned the filter and powerhead? Might just be a signal that they need a good cleaning.

a month :?

 

[fish_4_all]

Once a month isa good idea, I have to do it at least that often just to keep them filter running water faster than trickle. I would also take your spay bar and clean it completely to eliminate the algae on it.

Lighting works well for me to control it also. I can't turn off any of the lights but 2-3 times a week I don't lower the light down to the top of the tanks and this seems to control it some.

 

[JDogg]

Once a month isa good idea, I have to do it at least that often just to keep them filter running water faster than trickle. I would also take your spay bar and clean it completely to eliminate the algae on it.

Lighting works well for me to control it also. I can't turn off any of the lights but 2-3 times a week I don't lower the light down to the top of the tanks and this seems to control it some.

i thought you only need to clean Eheim canisters once every 6 months :?

 

[rkilling1]

i thought you only need to clean Eheim canisters once every 6 months :?

I have to clean mine every week to every 2 weeks. there are a lot of factors that go into when you need to clean your filter. the size of your filter, the size of your tank, type of fish, amout of fish, type of food you feed, ect..

 

[Zezmo]

I use two Fluval 303's, and each weekend one of them gets the floss replaced, so that is about two weeks max between cleaning.

FWIW, the fluval has 3 baskets, one has ceramic bio media which only gets cleaned when it is clogged (about 6 mos) and two baskets of floss, which as mentioned above, get changed every 2 weeks.

As for your algae, Good cleaing, large water change, and cut back light. In my Higher light/CO2 tanks, anytime I see excess algae, then I look to increase nutrients, not lessen them.

 

[JDogg]

ok, saturday is pwc day.... will clean filter and replace floss and cut back light (i can just run 1/2 my bulbs if i want). with the lower light should i cut back on my dosing?

 

[dapellegrini]

I am seeing what I think is the same thing in my tank and my with a very similar dosing and maintenance schedule on my 72g:

I just take it as a sign to check my dosing, and clean it off manually... Seems to like to grow on and around the spraybar for whatever reason.

 

[rkilling1]

you do have thread algae, but I doubt it is caused by the same problem. You just doubled your lighting and the amount of uptank of nutrients by the plants is going to increase and that maybe the cause. granted the uptank is not propotional to the lighting increase, due to the enzymes becoming overloaded at a given amount of light, but it may be something to look into. So, yes I agree, lol I would look into your dosing. I didn't read that last part until now. LOL

 

[7Enigma]

Can you post a full tank shot for us? Your using the same PH/CO2 setup that I use, but recently I found MUCH better results (both slightly higher CO2 levels but more importantly better dispersion across the tank) by placing the PH at substrate level. I had never done this before since 1 it would require more work to install the PH at the bottom of the tank and 2 I was concerned it would cause too many problems because of the current.

1 was definately true (such a pain trying to install this stuff!!!), but #2 was in fact the opposite. When I installed the PH, I put the output against the terra cotta pot in my tank and this effectively disrupted the jet of water enough that you can now BARELY see a current. Before when the PH was near the surface firing down, it cause a lot of turbulence to my fine tall plants like Rotala,etc. Here's an old pic of my tank (I've been meaning to get a new one with the new setup). In the bottom right corner is the pot, and the PH is now behind the pot, so it even makes the tank look cleaner since there's one less piece of equipment visible.

Give it a shot. You might like the results!

 

[JDogg]

Can you post a full tank shot for us? Your using the same PH/CO2 setup that I use, but recently I found MUCH better results (both slightly higher CO2 levels but more importantly better dispersion across the tank) by placing the PH at substrate level. I had never done this before since 1 it would require more work to install the PH at the bottom of the tank and 2 I was concerned it would cause too many problems because of the current.

1 was definately true (such a pain trying to install this stuff!!!), but #2 was in fact the opposite. When I installed the PH, I put the output against the terra cotta pot in my tank and this effectively disrupted the jet of water enough that you can now BARELY see a current. Before when the PH was near the surface firing down, it cause a lot of turbulence to my fine tall plants like Rotala,etc. Here's an old pic of my tank (I've been meaning to get a new one with the new setup). In the bottom right corner is the pot, and the PH is now behind the pot, so it even makes the tank look cleaner since there's one less piece of equipment visible.

Give it a shot. You might like the results!

i had the ph lower, but found that the water pressure was causing it to take FOREVER (like 4 days) to get CO2 out after i changed a bottle :?

here is a full tank shot...

it is a few weeks old but i hope it does the trick

 

[7Enigma]

i had the ph lower, but found that the water pressure was causing it to take FOREVER (like 4 days) to get CO2 out after i changed a bottle

That is relatively independent of the height of the PH and/or the setting on the PH. If properly sealed, CO2 production will quickly overpower virtually any pressure that typical tanks can create. This would more be a factor of too little yeast being used, and or temperature too low. I have DOUBLED the amount of yeast in my batches due to the recent temperature change. My office during the summertime gets quite warm (mid-high 80's) and so CO2 production requires very little yeast to be added. Now with the colder temp my house stays between 65-70F, and the yeast production is much slower (though longer lasting). If it takes 4 days to get positive pressure in your batches, I'd up the yeast amount and check for leaks. CO2/yeast production is no joke. You can have explosions from clogged lines. This goes to show just how much positive pressure can be built up (and rather quickly) by these little buggers.

I definately recommend lowering the PH to substrate level. Your tank is so long I would imagine your CO2 levels on the far left side are much lower than on the right side. By putting the PH at substrate level you'll get a nice saturation level low in the water column that should help.

One other thing was my surface agitation was obviously less since the PH was much lower in the tank. This should also prevent outgassing, but unlike passive measures (which might create stagnation and can lead to algae problems), you still have a current, its just deep in the water.

Wanted to also mention it has not made the PH noise virtually silent. My wife commented on it the other day and I didn't even tell her about the switch (the tank is in our office next to the computers). She used to get annoyed at the "crunch" sounds every couple seconds as she referred to it.

 

[JDogg]

[q]i had the ph lower, but found that the water pressure was causing it to take FOREVER (like 4 days) to get CO2 out after i changed a bottle [/q]

That is relatively independent of the height of the PH and/or the setting on the PH. If properly sealed, CO2 production will quickly overpower virtually any pressure that typical tanks can create. This would more be a factor of too little yeast being used, and or temperature too low. I have DOUBLED the amount of yeast in my batches due to the recent temperature change. My office during the summertime gets quite warm (mid-high 80's) and so CO2 production requires very little yeast to be added. Now with the colder temp my house stays between 65-70F, and the yeast production is much slower (though longer lasting). If it takes 4 days to get positive pressure in your batches, I'd up the yeast amount.

I definately recommend lowering the PH to substrate level. Your tank is so long I would imagine your CO2 levels on the far left side are much lower than on the right side. By putting the PH at substrate level you'll get a nice saturation level low in the water column that should help.

One other thing was my surface agitation was obviously less since the PH was much lower in the tank. This should also prevent outgassing, but unlike passive measures (which might create stagnation and can lead to algae problems), you still have a current, its just deep in the water.

Wanted to also mention it has not made the PH noise virtually silent. My wife commented on it the other day and I didn't even tell her about the switch (the tank is in our office next to the computers). She used to get annoyed at the "crunch" sounds every couple seconds as she referred to it.

ok it is worth a try... i have been thinking of upping the yeast amount, i am only using 1/4 tsp per bottle right now.

 

[7Enigma]

Bah you caught me editing my post. Check it again for slight changes...

 

[rkilling1]

Would it be wise to run (2) 2 liter (or gal) bottle setups with (2) PH's? one on each side on the aquarium? Seems like that would better disperse the CO2 and keep the levels more constant.

 

[7Enigma]

Definately. My tank is only a 20gallon high, so a single PH connected to 2 2L bottles works great for me. Your tank is more than twice as long as mine, I would if you can have one on either end at substrate level...

EDIT: This is your 75gallon tank from your sig correct? How on earth are you getting 65ppm CO2 by DIY. Can you tell us where you are taking water from to measure CO2 levels? Right next to the PH, on the far side, what depth level? You're the perfect candidate for pressurized, but I like you, hate the cost issue. Think I'll be treating myself to a pressurized system this Christmas however....